20 mm (~3/4") Spacers for Z51 Stock Wheels and Tires
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Thread: 20 mm (~3/4") Spacers for Z51 Stock Wheels and Tires

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    Senior Member Manta-C7's Avatar
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    20 mm (~3/4") Spacers for Z51 Stock Wheels and Tires

    I've been thinking about adding spacers in all 4 wheels of my Stingray, I have z51 wheels, tires, and suspension and have lowered it all the way on stock bolts. Found a lot here about 6 mm spacers but nothing about 20 mm or anything greater than 6 mm for that matter. I'm worried about 20 mm or 3/4" being too much and getting fender rub; any experience with that much offset or wheels/tires that stick out that much relative to stock setup?
    Last edited by Manta-C7; 05-19-2017 at 12:59 PM.

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    I'd be concerned about the additional torque you would be putting on hubs/axles.
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    You've got to consider that if it was a good idea, why didn't GM design it into the C7? I'm sure the engineers didn't narrow the stance to make it look worse. When they did widen it, they went to the GS/Z06 widebody.

    Yeah, having the wheels and tires stick out more looks good, at the expense of more strain, possible rubbing, and rock chips.

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    Would using these spacers mean that your wheels were being held on with 3/4 of an inch fewer threads?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milliwatt Rob View Post
    Would using these spacers mean that your wheels were being held on with 3/4 of an inch fewer threads?
    That is an excellent point that would have me concerned.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jsvette View Post
    I'd be concerned about the additional torque you would be putting on hubs/axles.
    I totally agree, Jeff. I think it should kill the warranty on the hubs and axles for sure. I don't think it would be a stretch for GM to deny a warranty claim on the rear differential either, if such a spacer were installed on the rear.
    elegant likes this.
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    As well as also denying warranty coverage for all bearings, suspension bushings, etc.

    The key issue of course is, # 1, that unless the wheel studs are replaced with 3/4" longer ones, not enough thread to safely hold on the wheels -- risk of a wheel flying off and a crash, and second, if Manta-C7 is at all concerned about warranty retention.

    Many who use wheel spacers do so after first installing commensurate longer/stronger wheel studs.
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    Senior Member Mobius's Avatar
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    There's another option for wider wheels - using radical camber. You might be the first to have their C7 rigged-up this way.

    Oh, and I'm sure it won't have any influence on warranty*.

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    Senior Member Manta-C7's Avatar
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    Ok, I should have said adapter instead of spacer (see pic below). This type bolts on to the hub and provides a new set of studs and a new hub lip. So, no short thread engagement.

    Hub is bolted to the knuckle, so knuckle takes the heat, don't see a problem there. Axles and beyond should not see any load coming from the extra moment this extension will create b/c of the CV joint articulation. Loads on ball joints and lower/upper arms can be neglected b/c 3/4 is small compared to the lengths of knuckle and arms, no concern there.

    I do see that the more offset one adds the outer hub bearing (smaller) taking more load than the inner (larger) and I know it will take a toll on its life. This is the biggest effect IMO, bearings are cheap though.

    Anyway, my point is rub, imagine I still have the same factory offset but the wheel/tire extends 3/4 to 1 further out on a car lowered to the max on stock bolts; will it rub?

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  11. #10
    Senior Member Manta-C7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mobius View Post
    There's another option for wider wheels - using radical camber. You might be the first to have their C7 rigged-up this way.

    Oh, and I'm sure it won't have any influence on warranty*.

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    Mobius does not intend this information to be legal advice. By providing this information, Mobius is not acting as your lawyer. If you need legal advice, you should contact a lawyer.
    You are killing me man, lucky you have that disclaimer! I'll get you one of these days. Oh, already got you, you had to pick a green car as an example too.

    This is what I'm talking about:

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    Last edited by Manta-C7; 05-19-2017 at 12:45 PM.
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  12. #11
    Senior Member rdslon01's Avatar
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    In the past I noticed how little clearance that I have from the tires to the car's body when the front wheels are turned through the range of their left-to-right motion.

    Since your wheels would be extended out, I would think you would only have to concern yourself with the face of the wheel which you can see easily.

    Turn your wheels all the way to one side. Inspect the clearance you have on the side of the wheel facing out toward you. Imagine that outward-facing face of the wheel being extruded out toward you by 20 mm. Would it hit anything?

    Turn your wheels a little bit, and take another look. Keep doing that until you finally reach full wheel lock of the steering wheel in the other direction.

    Did it look like you would have enough space?

    Also, now consider the decrease in clearance which would occur if your suspension were under more compression from a bump in the road while you were turning your wheels in a curve.

    The back wheels will be easier to evaluate. All you have to concern yourself with there is the suspension compression. Also, at least on my car, there is more room in the wheel well back there to begin with because those wheels don't turn side-to-side.
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  13. #12
    Senior Member Manta-C7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdslon01 View Post
    Also, now consider the decrease in clearance which would occur if your suspension were under more compression from a bump in the road while you were turning your wheels in a curve
    This is the one that looks like it may happen. I wonder if anybody has installed wheels 10" front and 11.5" or 12" rear, that will be the equivalent. I read about 10" front and 11" back w/o problems.
    Last edited by Manta-C7; 05-19-2017 at 02:51 PM.

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