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Thread: Breaking in your new C7 procedure

  1. #16
    Senior Member smokey12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Emmdmd View Post
    Just picked mine up a couple of weeks ago and have about 150 miles on it. My assumption is that the engineers at GM know way more about the car than I do, so I am sticking by their recommendations to the T.
    Well, you have to remember that the engineers are not writing the owners manuals for these cars and if you spoke with an engineer that designs these engines you may be surprised to find out how they break in their personal cars. The truth is these owners manuals are written for the MASSES and some of these owners don't even know the difference between a piston ring and a key ring, They have to keep it very simple and safe and keep all aspects in consideration to avoid legal pitfalls. Imagine what would happen in this lawsuit happy country if they didn't. I think GM or any manufacturer would rather keep it safe and simple and then deal with the occasional owner who cannot understand why their car is using a quart of oil every 1500 miles and simply tell them its normal. Yes it is normal if you don't properly seat your rings when the engine is brand new. If you are ok with that then follow the manual to a T.
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    Senior Member Emmdmd's Avatar
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    Breaking in your new C7 procedure

    [QUOTE=scott53;32323]"...for several full throttle accelerations, and deceleration (rings need to be loaded with both for proper BMPE to seat properly)"
    QUOTE]

    Scott53, I'm assuming you can still do all this and keep it under the recommended 4000 RPMs that GM recommends...

    I have 150 miles on it already and have "gotten on it", but kept it under the 4000 RPMs. Are you all saying that isn't necessary during the "several full throttle accelerations and decelerations"? Are the to rings already fully seated by the 150 miles?


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    Last edited by Emmdmd; 03-07-2014 at 09:37 AM.
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    Senior Member RCjr's Avatar
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    I would think the folks that designed these engines didn't call it a day at that point and head up for the house. I would imagine it is as important to them as it is us to get the most out of these 6.2's. I've never had a poor performing short lived engine by following the break in guidelines from the manufacture. I've owned over 50 new cars..

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    Senior Member rdslon01's Avatar
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    How much break-in is already done on the engine even before it is married to the chassis? I thought they ran these engines on stands to get some wear and seating on them, and then drained the oil (to get the metal filings out). Then they put the engine on the chassis a few weeks later. Also, I thought this was why it is no longer required to change the oil the first time until a regular service interval.

    Am I incorrect in any or all of the aspects above?
    Rodney and C.A.R.O.L.I.N.E. (Candy Apple Red, Outrageously Lovely, Incredibly Nimble Entertainment)

    C.A.R.O.L.I.N.E. is a 2016 Long Beach Red, 3LZ, Stage 1, Z06 Coupe with an Automatic 8-speed transmission, the Spice Red Design Package, Competition Seats, a Carbon Flash Hood Stinger, and a Body-Colored Dual Roof Package. She has SunTek paint protective film installed on every painted surface other than on some of the vents' and grille's slats, G3 Carbon's "G3-O7" side skirts, GM StingRay Red Tail Lights, GM Rear Splash Guards from Trunk Monkey, ACS Composite Enhanced Front Wheel Mudflaps from West Coast Corvette, and her mufflers painted with POR15 Aluminum high temperature paint.

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    Senior Member MYKZDRM's Avatar
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    That's interesting. Your suggestion is just the opposite of what GM recommends for the first 500 miles.

    MKZDRM

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    Senior Member glen e's Avatar
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    Honestly, unless you are a cretin idiot and somehow super baby the car or choose the opposite extreme, you will be fine.
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    Member scott53's Avatar
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    "Scott53, I'm assuming you can still do all this and keep it under the recommended 4000 RPMs that GM recommends..."

    Yes, you can. I have been very careful to stay under 4000 RPMs when doing the acceleration portion. I am not smarter than a GM engineer and will not go against what the manual instructs for max break in RPMs in the first 500 miles. I must admit that the deceleration part was easier with my M6 GS than it is with my A6 Stingray. But I still think it is worth doing and I don't see how it would do any harm. And it does keep you driving at varying speeds per the insturctions in the manual. I hit 178 miles this evening. I'm not certain for how many more miles this makes sense. I'll probably keep this up to at least the 200 to 300 mile mark.
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    Member scott53's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdslon01 View Post
    How much break-in is already done on the engine even before it is married to the chassis? I thought they ran these engines on stands to get some wear and seating on them, and then drained the oil (to get the metal filings out). Then they put the engine on the chassis a few weeks later. Also, I thought this was why it is no longer required to change the oil the first time until a regular service interval.

    Am I incorrect in any or all of the aspects above?
    I don't know the answer to your question, but it certainly is an interesting point. I know that during my VIP Plant Tour in Spetember 2011 I did see them crank the speed up to about 80 MPH with the rear tires on rollers near the end of the entire process. And they did not seem shy about running it up to 80 quickly if my memory is correct.

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    Senior Member LT1xL82's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdslon01 View Post
    Run the automatics strictly with paddle shifters for the first 500 miles so you can choose the gear/RPMs to vary.
    Pretty good idea!

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    Senior Member booie's Avatar
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    If you change to a conventional 5-30 dexos approved oil for the first 500 miles that would not be a warranty issue would it?

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    Senior Member glen e's Avatar
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    No....there are no warranty police for things like oil analysis.....unless you screw it up.......
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  13. #27
    Senior Member glen e's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LT1xL82 View Post
    Pretty good idea!
    I have written this before but if you have an automatic, this is the way to break it in.....
    1. Take a long trip
    2. Take it up to 70 and put the cruise control on
    3. Put it in M and start using the paddles
    4. Every 10 - 15 min, shift between 6, 5 and 4, and back up....

    Done....it's the rpm that matters, not speed.....this also kills AFM for breakin......
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  14. #28
    Senior Member rdslon01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by glen e View Post
    I have written this before but if you have an automatic, this is the way to break it in.....
    1. Take a long trip
    2. Take it up to 70 and put the cruise control on
    3. Put it in M and start using the paddles
    4. Every 10 - 15 min, shift between 6, 5 and 4, and back up....

    Done....it's the rpm that matters, not speed.....this also kills AFM for breakin......
    The first time I asked for something like that 3-4 months ago (when I didn't know how to force all eight cylinders to run during the break-in period) was, as best as I can recall, the first time you told me to stop overthinking things. Now you have the perfect solution. LOL.
    Rodney and C.A.R.O.L.I.N.E. (Candy Apple Red, Outrageously Lovely, Incredibly Nimble Entertainment)

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  15. #29
    Senior Member glen e's Avatar
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    I still feel that way...break-in is way over thought..but if you are OCD, this is the way to do it....
    Last edited by glen e; 03-09-2014 at 01:00 PM.
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    Senior Member rdslon01's Avatar
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    I definitely have OCD, there is no doubt about that...
    Rodney and C.A.R.O.L.I.N.E. (Candy Apple Red, Outrageously Lovely, Incredibly Nimble Entertainment)

    C.A.R.O.L.I.N.E. is a 2016 Long Beach Red, 3LZ, Stage 1, Z06 Coupe with an Automatic 8-speed transmission, the Spice Red Design Package, Competition Seats, a Carbon Flash Hood Stinger, and a Body-Colored Dual Roof Package. She has SunTek paint protective film installed on every painted surface other than on some of the vents' and grille's slats, G3 Carbon's "G3-O7" side skirts, GM StingRay Red Tail Lights, GM Rear Splash Guards from Trunk Monkey, ACS Composite Enhanced Front Wheel Mudflaps from West Coast Corvette, and her mufflers painted with POR15 Aluminum high temperature paint.

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