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  1. #31
    Member davelv's Avatar
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    Te glen e method may break in the engine but the differential, wheel bearings and u joints need break in also with varying mph. Further the mph should not exceed 55 for the first 300 miles The method I learned 40 years ago is to accelerate up to 55 mph then coast back to 40-45, and repeat for 500 miles. Varying the gear should be performed but keep the rpms within recommendations. The acceleration and coasting aid seating of the rings.
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  2. #32
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    Had the fortune to meet the C5 Chief Engineer Dave Hill, and we ended up talking about break in procedures. He said, as posted above, that varying RPM's during the first 500 miles was key, and that so were: breaking in/burnishing brakes as per the manual, easing in the the tires the first 200 miles so they were similarly broken in as the mold release was worn off, but that his biggest concern was folks not going full bore on the differential, wheel bearings and similar rear end drive components for 1,200 miles, i.e., no track use during this time period.

    He also chuckled when I said to him, after my initial oil and filter change at 500 miles (which he personally liked), that I still change my oil thereafter every 3,000 miles. In his typical gentle style, he said, "it's your money, spend it the way you want, but I change mine much less frequently."

  3. #33
    Banned Tuner Boost's Avatar
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    All I can say is having built race and performance engines for over 40 years, and starting as a GM tech in 1974, and also seeing so many with oil consumption issues since GM started to pre-fill the V8's w/M1, I would never baby it that first 500 miles. It is critical to seat the rings properly, and the superior protection of a full synthetic oil makes this very difficult to achieve this unless you drain and fill with a conventional oil first.





    This is long, but Nissan actually breaks each engine in on the track BEFORE delivery to the customer, as does Ferrari, etc.


    New Engine Break-in Procedure

    Welcome to Continental Motors

    Engine Break-In Procedure


    The concern with other mating surfaces in the drivetrain is not valid EXCEPT for the ring and pinion and brake pads/rotors. The pads need to be bedded properly (a few brisk stops and NOT allowing the pads to remain clamped to the rotor for even bedding and heat cycling). They generally bed themselves fine. And the Ring and Pinion. These will take app 50-100 limes to "wear in" to each other and a few heat cycles, every other part will never be as true and perfect as when it leaves the factory and there is no need for breaking on any other component.

    So, from a tech and engine builders view, most would rather seat the rings properly to begin with than come back for warranty claims requiring a re-ring later due to excess oil consumption.

    It seems only Aircraft engines now come pre-filled with proper break-in oil that facilitates proper ring seat. And the pilots and passengers lives depend on this being done correctly.

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  5. #34
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    Valid points.

    Can only provide my personal and very limited experience with my brand new C5 and C6 Z06. I followed GM's break in procedures exactly, and despite many other C5's and C6's experiencing lots of severe oil consumption issues -- with more than a few going back to dealerships with owners complaining about a quart of oil needing to be added at 500 miles, 700 miles, etc., I never added, nor needed to add a quart of oil to my C5 between its 3,000 mile oil changes, nor in my C6 Z06 with its 3,000 mile oil changes.

    On both, I did one additional oil/filter change, replacing the factory oil and filter at 500 miles to get out all the minute metal particles from initial engine break in. Lucky? Perhaps. Will I do exactly the same thing on my '15 Z06? Absolutely -- unless GM changes the break in procedures for the LT4.

  6. #35
    Banned Tuner Boost's Avatar
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    You were a luck one for sure, and plenty of others doing the same have had no issues so thats proof your not guranteed to use oil....but the hard break-in is assurance the rings will seat correctly.

    I also wanted to point out that it was mentioned U-joints and wheel bearings, etc would need break-in. The C7 has no u-joints in any part of the drivetrain and the sealed wheel bearings are a cartridge type assy and will never be more perfect than when new, so that does not apply either.

    :thumbsup:

  7. #36
    Senior Member FormulaRedline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuner Boost View Post
    The C7 has no u-joints in any part of the drivetrain and the sealed wheel bearings are a cartridge type assy and will never be more perfect than when new, so that does not apply either.
    Good info, thanks!

  8. #37
    Senior Member booie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tuner Boost View Post
    You were a luck one for sure, and plenty of others doing the same have had no issues so thats proof your not guranteed to use oil....but the hard break-in is assurance the rings will seat correctly.

    I also wanted to point out that it was mentioned U-joints and wheel bearings, etc would need break-in. The C7 has no u-joints in any part of the drivetrain and the sealed wheel bearings are a cartridge type assy and will never be more perfect than when new, so that does not apply either.

    :thumbsup:

    Well mine should be seated well.

    Thanks,
    booie

  9. #38
    Senior Member mjw930's Avatar
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    Mine will get driven back to Florida from Bowling Green via the TN/NC/GA mountains. I'm pretty sure everything will be bedded, run in and seated quite nicely before the first oil change
    Mark

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  10. #39
    Senior Member PoconoG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw930 View Post
    Mine will get driven back to Florida from Bowling Green via the TN/NC/GA mountains. I'm pretty sure everything will be bedded, run in and seated quite nicely before the first oil change
    Ours will head northeast through West Virgina...I'm sure we will seat them just fine.....on FRIDAY!!!! :-)
    Lifetime Member NCM. Museum Delivery 3/28/14 2LT Z51, Velocity Yellow on Black, CF Striped and trimmed, Mag, Nav, NPP. Poconos of PA

  11. #40
    Senior Member booie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoconoG View Post
    Ours will head northeast through West Virgina...I'm sure we will seat them just fine.....on FRIDAY!!!! :-)
    Unleash the beast! She will love you for it.

  12. #41
    Senior Member SwisStingray's Avatar
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    VERY interesting post! In reality all we can discuss about the Corvette (or any car!) seems to be quite peanuts comparing to the break in process as this one seals definitely the way your engine will run for all his life!
    Naturally when you go to take your brand new Corvette you're very happy, very excited and there are plenty things you want to discover, etc. and I'm sure that "cooling" this enjoyment because you have to take immediately care of a binding break in process is not the best thing you could hope

    The important question now is. WHO HERE HAVE DRAINED THE ORIGINAL GM OIL BEFORE TO START THE BREAK IN to use mineral break in oil?
    After reading all the linked articles I'm definitely convicted that the explained process is the better way to assure the best possible break in process, so using immediately the OEM synthetic oil can ruin completely the explained process as this oil is too slippery and will cause definitive glaze (read articles) lower output and too much oil consumption risks.

    Second important question is : have you asked for this immediate oil change to your dealer or have you organized that for yourself to avoid any problem with him if there will be one time a warranty claim regarding the engine ?

    Third question: Following the break in process with mineral break in oil, this one + the oil filter would have been changed by the SAME oil after about to 150/200 miles to eliminate the metal particles present after the first running miles. The synthetic oil would have to be used only after around to 1500 miles. Anybody did that or plans to do ?

    I don't know for yourself but even if this break in process should get you anxious vs the OEM process, there are a lot of technical facts that cannot be ignored (for example the pistons and rings look/condition differences after OEM and upgraded break in process are incredible). See here in the middle of the page,
    http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
    beside that this Website have plenty of things to read, not only this page.

    P.S.I have two defects: English is not my native language and I'm a newbie here, so please be tolerant
    Last edited by SwisStingray; 03-27-2014 at 11:46 PM.

  13. #42
    Senior Member joshg's Avatar
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    It's in GM's best interest to have your corvette last as long and as high performing as possible. They stake the brand and reputation on such. I don't think GM/Corvette would recommend anything but the best way to treat your engine. While there is science behind it, I think a lot of this is he said/she said and has very little basis for modern engines comparing to old.

    Honestly - I'd guess that regardless of how you do it, if you treat the car well and maintain it properly, you should be fine.
    Roadrat3 and whosurdaddy107 like this.

  14. #43
    Senior Member FormulaRedline's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshg View Post
    It's in GM's best interest to have your corvette last as long and as high performing as possible.
    Unfortunately, this is not true. It's in their best interest for the engine to last past the warranty period, for sure, which any of the techniques here will allow. However, they have no real interest if you burn a quart of oil here and there and lose a handful of horsepower to lower compression numbers. As a large, public company, they are much more concerned about liability and class action lawsuits (i.e. we told everyone to drive the daylights of their cars and 1% of them crashed and are suing us for tens/hundreds of millions now).

    It IS in the interest of these race engine builders if you are losing compression, though. They don't get to sell you the car, they only sell the engine performance. It's those guys whose "brand and reputation" are really built on the quality of the engine break in procedure.
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  15. #44
    Senior Member Chip's Avatar
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    SwisStingray; You have posed a question about oil that I have wondered about for sometime in the corvette. The S2000 (and perhaps other cars) came with a high Zinc factory fill oil that was there to facilitate a "proper" engine break in. The owners manual specified that this oil be left in the engine for a full 5K before changing out. I think many owners changed it out before then, (I did @ 3K) but clearly Honda thought that a special oil that was not synthetically based was important for a proper engine run-in.




  16. #45
    Senior Member glen e's Avatar
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    as a former moderator of Driveaccord.net, I was hip deep in these discussions about Honda's "special" break in oil. It is true - you can read about below. On the Blackstone oil tests, it was determined that Honda put in a extra scoop of "moly" for break in. It was not so much the syn/non syn issue, they just wanted the moly to work...

    discussed here:

    Top 7 Urban Legends About Motor Oil

    P.S. - I changed my Honda's after 1st 3000 miles too....don't care what Honda says to do....LOL
    Last edited by glen e; 03-28-2014 at 09:03 AM.
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    here's everything I've done to this car:
    Hidden Content
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