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Thread: Breaking in your new C7 procedure

  1. #121
    Senior Member rdslon01's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Musclehead View Post
    Just picked mine up today and drove it home about 200 mi -- wow. Good purchase. It's a 2LT Blade Silver with Black Interior, manual trans, performance exhaust, MRC, carbon flash everything, black wheels -- didn't order it, but the dealer had it tricked out just like I wanted. Looked all over for it and got a great deal. Pic to follow. Real excited.
    Welcome to the forum, Musclehead, from a native Kentuckian!
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    C.A.R.O.L.I.N.E. is a 2016 Long Beach Red, 3LZ, Stage 1, Z06 Coupe with an Automatic 8-speed transmission, the Spice Red Design Package, Competition Seats, a Carbon Flash Hood Stinger, and a Body-Colored Dual Roof Package. She has SunTek paint protective film installed on every painted surface other than on some of the vents' and grille's slats, G3 Carbon's "G3-O7" side skirts, GM StingRay Red Tail Lights, GM Rear Splash Guards from Trunk Monkey, ACS Composite Enhanced Front Wheel Mudflaps from West Coast Corvette, and her mufflers painted with POR15 Aluminum high temperature paint.

  2. #122
    Senior Member C7DriverOnt's Avatar
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    Now have just over a thousand miles on mine. I limited the revs but also try to run it up and down while putting on the first 1000. Goosed it once in a while up to about 4500/5000 but not much above that. I typically wouldn't run an engine up to redline at any time. At 1000 miles I changed the oil and filter myself. Just makes sense if their are parts in the engine that create filings much of that is going to occur in that first 1000 as those parts get used to each other. Right or wrong changing the oil and filter makes me feel better, do that with each new vehicle I have owned, used synthetic. The car will never be tracked and I don't run it hard. During that first 1000 the engine didn't use a drop of oil, levels were exactly the same on the dip as the day I picked it up, and I checked it at the dealer. Didn't reset the oil life indicator, will now change it when it tells me it is time or each year if I don't put on enough miles.
    Last edited by C7DriverOnt; 08-24-2014 at 07:45 AM.

  3. #123
    Junior Member Musclehead's Avatar
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    Thanks, man. Posting a pic now.

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    Member heymilton's Avatar
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    Question......

    Can I still do a hard break in with the oil that is in the engine from the factory? or is it worthless because it is a synthetic that is just too slippery?

  6. #125
    Member Stingrayfan56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heymilton View Post
    Question......

    Can I still do a hard break in with the oil that is in the engine from the factory? or is it worthless because it is a synthetic that is just too slippery?
    Im curious about this as well...

  7. #126
    Senior Member Z51Stingray's Avatar
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    Break in as normal with the factory fill synthetic oil.

    That's why the break in period has went from 500 miles up to 1500 miles.
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  8. #127
    Member Stingrayfan56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Z51Stingray View Post
    Break in as normal with the factory fill synthetic oil.

    That's why the break in period has went from 500 miles up to 1500 miles.
    What do you mean... why was there an increase in mileage also my car has no 4500 rev limiter it doesnt look like I havent taken it past that but I thought it was 4500 until 500 miles. I do have a 15' though not sure of thats why

  9. #128
    Member heymilton's Avatar
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    I am going to hard break in my car when I get it in 2 weeks. I have read way to many articles that say a hard break in is much better for your engine. Back to my question, will the synthetic oil from the factory keep my engine from breaking in properly??

    Quote Originally Posted by Stingrayfan56 View Post
    What do you mean... why was there an increase in mileage also my car has no 4500 rev limiter it doesnt look like I havent taken it past that but I thought it was 4500 until 500 miles. I do have a 15' though not sure of thats why

  10. #129
    Member Stingrayfan56's Avatar
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    I'm wondering the same thing. Sure a proper oil would be better but if you keep factory oil will it still do a good job at seating the rings and is there a guide for this hard break in.
    Quote Originally Posted by heymilton View Post
    I am going to hard break in my car when I get it in 2 weeks. I have read way to many articles that say a hard break in is much better for your engine. Back to my question, will the synthetic oil from the factory keep my engine from breaking in properly??

  11. #130
    Senior Member mjw930's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heymilton View Post
    Question......

    Can I still do a hard break in with the oil that is in the engine from the factory? or is it worthless because it is a synthetic that is just too slippery?
    Of course you can, the idea that synthetic oil is any "slipperier" than conventional oil is urban myth. Exxon/Mobil dispelled the "break in oil" concept well over a decade ago in partnership with multiple major engine manufactures, get over the idea you need a special oil, those days are long gone. (the fact Honda adds extra molly to their new engines is irrelevant, no other manufacturer in the world does that and in fact, molybdenum actually DECREASES friction).

    To the 500 vs. 1500 mile question, initial break-in is in 2 steps, 500 miles for RPM restrictions and 1500 for racing or track use. It's similar to GM's break-in procedure for their trucks using the same Ecotech platform, 500 miles for RPM and 1500 miles for towing. The 1500 mile number is most likely more for the transmission and differential. Remember, it's a drivetrain break-in, not just the engine.
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  12. #131
    Senior Member Milliwatt Rob's Avatar
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    I believe break in, these days, is more about having parts heating and cooling to relieve internal stresses than it is about wearing in mating parts that rub against each other. Manufacturing tolerances are much greater these days than 40 years ago.

  13. #132
    Senior Member davem's Avatar
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    Milliwatt Bob-

    I have to disagree with that.

    Tolerances are tighter than ever and we still enjoy a higher level of performance. This is due to the fact that 40 years ago, there were no (computer) programs available to run, not only interference analysis, but more importantly stress analysis. We do mechanical designs where I work and we can do stress testing, (via the Solidworks program that we use) to determine stress levels as well as search for areas where we can improve, based on perceived(simulated) failures. I am sure the automakers have programs 10x-100x more powerful than Solidworks and thus are able to do failure and stress analysis to the nth degree (whatever that means!). Therefore, the cars get 30+ MPG with 450+ horsepower. For max HP, it is more about the important things, such as ring seating, that determine how your machine (C7) will run. This involves common racing engine build practices, not just what is on the GM manual. Gm wants you to have a car that last a long time. They have no real desire to maximize your HP. I want a car where rings are seated and I get max. HP!

    I know other guys that in the racing engine crowd can chime in here.

  14. #133
    Senior Member Milliwatt Rob's Avatar
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    Whoops, by saying that tolerances are "greater", I meant that the tolerances are tighter, not more loose.

  15. #134
    Senior Member davem's Avatar
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    Sorry Dude...

    A long explanation from me.

    I would expect craploads of comments on this one!

    Added a smiley.

  16. #135
    Senior Member davem's Avatar
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    Can you be the bad guy and I be the good guy when the comments come in?

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