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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2 of 3, look for my NCM Delivery and CA Registration threads as well.

Chip asked me to post these reports I made on another forum. There are three altogether.

I wanted to give this forum my impressions and observations after about three weeks and 3,000 miles of Stringray ownership. I will try to avoid the obvious and instead focus on things I have not seen in other articles or threads. So far my driving experience includes about 2,500 miles of Interstate driving, 200 miles of back road pleasure driving, and 300 miles of commuting in traffic. I have not yet had the pleasure of driving the C7 on a closed course or racetrack.

The car:
Laguna Blue/Brownstone, 3LT, Z51, Exposed CF Roof
MN7
NPP Dual Mode Exhaust
Magnetic Selective Ride
Red Calipers
Black Wheels
Black Mirrors and Spoiler
Competition Seats
FAY
Micro Fiber Upper Interior
R8C Museum Delivery













Overall Fit and Finish:
The fit is very good on my car, gaps are even and alignment inside and out is good.
Body smoothness and paint is OK given the constraints of plastic panels and robot applied water-borne paint, with no post-application correction (color sanding, buffing, etc.). I don’t see any runs or obvious problems, but this is an area we all know GM could improve. Is it good enough? Yes. Would I pay $10,000-$15,000 more for better paint? No. I will likely massage the paint with some very fine compound and apply a quality clear coat gloss enhancer. I will not have the car color sanded since I don’t think there is enough clear coat to allow for it.
The interior is excellent. I upgraded to the 3LT for the Brownstone and I am very glad I did. I was recently on a local drive tour with a large group of Porsches and got a close-up look at some GT3 (Comp Style) and GT Turbo (Luxury Style) cars. But for the plastic on the door sills, the Corvette interior was every bit a match to the Porsches.
Cleaning is a lot more work that either my C5 or C6. The C7 is full of nooks and crannies that take more time to keep clean. This is the price we pay for all those vents and accents.

Competition Seats:
There has been a lot of discussion and debate over the Competition Seats here over the last several months. I took a chance and ordered them without a chance to sit in any ahead of time. Both my wife and I are larger than average (I am 6’1” - currently 275 lbs. – 44” waist – 50” jacket) and I was a bit apprehensive given reports of how uncomfortable they were and how they should only be ordered for a Track car. Let me say I have NO REGRETS on the Comp. Seats, and I would order them again. I will honestly state what I think the pros and cons are of the seats.
Pros are the additional support and the look. Several people have asked me if they are custom or after-market. When I went on the News Year Drive with the Porsches I locked in the shoulder harness and the seat really held me in place. The feeling, while not as confined as my race car seat and 6-point harness, allowed me to feel what the car was doing through my butt and back. This is very important for high performance driving. The long term support and comfort is also very good. We drove three 750 mile days from BG to SoCal and back-leg comfort was never a problem. My wife agreed.
Cons are the perceived initial comfort. When I first sit in the seat it does feel like it is pinching my back and outer-upper thighs. However, once I get used to it the seats are just fine. I am working to get myself back in shape and I am sure once I drop some inches even this will no longer be an issue.
Bottom line these seats are not for everyone. If you plan on high performance driving and like the looks of the Comp. seats go for them, but be aware they are no fluffy easy chair. A good analogy is a mesh ergo office chair. It doesn’t feel as good as the overstuffed easy chair when you first sit down, but your back will feel a lot better after siting in it for hours. If possible you should try to sit in the Comp. seats before you buy, especially if you are larger than a 36” waist and a 40” jacket.

Power:
Full throttle power does not seem much different from my 436HP NPP A6 2008. I was not expecting a difference I could feel given the C7 only has 24 more HP. This is not a disappointment, merely an observation. I will leave it to the drag racers to determine the HP advantage of a stock LT1 over a stock LS3. For real world driving there is a huge difference in torque below 3500 RPM. On a canyon drive I had no need to shift as long as the RPM was above 2500. The LS3 needs to be above 4000 RPM to pull hard.

Driving dynamics/mechanics:
The C7 is much easier to drive fast in the twistiness than my C6. I bought the C6 Vert as a touring car and never planned to track it, but I was always a little disappointed in the driving experience in the canyons. The 2008 was possible to drive fast, it just seemed to take too much effort and had a bad tendency to push (tight in NASCAR, or understeer in techie). The C7 reminds me of my 1999 C5 when I had the full Pfadt Coilover suspension really dialed in. Admittedly I have not yet pushed the C7 near its limit, but so far I find it very easy to drive fast around corners. I have been driving NASCAR based live axle race cars for the last few years and sort of forgotten how to drive a high-tech road car around a corner so I will be attending a Spring Mountain -- Ron Fellows Level 2 school in February to re-learn how to drive a Corvette. :D The car is also very low fatigue to drive long distances on the interstate. I have always considered Corvette to be the best cars to drive for long hours, not because they are quiet or plush, but because it takes very little effort to keep the car pointed straight down the road.
The ride in Touring (T,E, & W mode) is noticeably smoother than Sport (S) or Track (Tr). I am glad I got the mag ride. My 2008 has it and the C7 seems to be an evolutionary improvement. The ride is however always sports car like, and never as smooth as a luxury car or even a sports sedan. Again like the seats you should try both the Z51 and the base for your ride preference if you do not plan to track the car.
On any pavement rougher than smooth new asphalt, the tires make a lot of noise. I expect this with the width, tread and compound of the Michelins. Just don’t expect this car to be quiet at speed on grooved or rough concrete pavement.
Shifting takes a little getting used to. The seven speed has four vertical gates and it takes some finesse to go from 4-5, 7-6, or 6-5 without skipping 4-7, 7-4, or 6-3. No big deal, just takes some practice and getting used to. As for the CAGS forced 1-4 shift I barely notice it. I think it may have happened a total of 10 times or less in 3000 miles.
The steering is fantastic. No play at all and the smoothness I love about electric assist.
Brakes are not broken in yet. I have not pushed them to the limit so nothing to report here.

Electronics/Infotainment/Etc.
All of the gadgets take some getting used to. I tend to learn what I need as I need it rather than try to learn it all at once. Phone paring and Bluetooth implementation is the best of any car I have used. All of the phone features including phonebook and voicemail work great. Pandora works great with my HTC One android phone (has Beats Audio processing).
I have only used the media player a bit with a USB drive full of music. Seem to work fine.
The 3LT Bose sound system is fine for me, I used to be a semi-pro sound engineer and DJ, so I know how a good system should work and sound, but my high frequency hearing loss makes it impossible for me to be an honest critic of audio quality. I do notice the difference between radio (FM or SIRUSXM) and high bit-rate MP3 or Pandora (I subscribe to Pandora One so I get a high bit-rate). The XM especially sounds thin and tinny compared to a good MP3 or my Pandora. I have tried both the Centerpoint and Normal sound stage settings and they both work depending on the program type. For voice and vocal music Centerpoint works better, while for jazz or instrumental music I like the Normal setting.
Seat memory and exit assist took some getting used to. If you have a C6 or other older GM vehicle with memory recall you will need to get used to it also. The C7 does not have 2 unique key-fobs like earlier years. Both fobs are the same so if you program “Auto Recall” it will always recall the same one regardless of the fob used. Apparently the A6 will let you choose between recall at door open or recall at engine start. The M7 does not have this choice, if you program auto recall it will always be at door open. I suspect GM did this because you have to fully depress the clutch to start the M7 and shorter drivers would not be able to do this from the full back easy exit position. For me the easy exit is useless unless it stays back for easy entry so I leave the auto recall off and just push the button when I get in the car.

Summary:
The car is great and I am very happy with it and the options I selected. I am fortunate enough to have an electric daily driver, but I would have no problem driving the C7 every day if I had to. I look forward to testing the limits at the track and many long road trips to come.
 

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Thanks for the well thought through and comprehensive write-up adamsobc. Beautiful Stingray!:cool:
 

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Above adamsocb wrote, "Seat memory and exit assist took some getting used to. If you have a C6 or other older GM vehicle with memory recall you will need to get used to it also. The C7 does not have 2 unique key-fobs like earlier years. Both fobs are the same so if you program “Auto Recall” it will always recall the same one regardless of the fob used. Apparently the A6 will let you choose between recall at door open or recall at engine start. The M7 does not have this choice, if you program auto recall it will always be at door open."

Really? You cannot tie one fob to memory 1 and the other fob to memory 2? Surely there is a way to do this, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Above adamsocb wrote, "Seat memory and exit assist took some getting used to. If you have a C6 or other older GM vehicle with memory recall you will need to get used to it also. The C7 does not have 2 unique key-fobs like earlier years. Both fobs are the same so if you program “Auto Recall” it will always recall the same one regardless of the fob used. Apparently the A6 will let you choose between recall at door open or recall at engine start. The M7 does not have this choice, if you program auto recall it will always be at door open."

Really? You cannot tie one fob to memory 1 and the other fob to memory 2? Surely there is a way to do this, right?
No there is not on mine. The fobs do not have numbers. This seems to be a mid-run 2014 change, I have heard others say their C7 fobs are numbered.
 

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No there is not on mine. The fobs do not have numbers. This seems to be a mid-run 2014 change, I have heard others say their C7 fobs are numbered.
Mine are numbered. Both keys have the number 1 on them - lol.
 
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It begs the question; Which 1 is the right 1? ;)
So far, they are both the right one as they get me rolling in my Stingray. Though that can't be completely correct since one get Left behind every time I take the car out.:roll eyes: (we need more better smileys)
 

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What I am wondering is if one of the fobs can be tied to driver memory position #1 and the other to position #2. For example, when my wife gets in her Cadillac, the seat automatically goes to her seating position when she opens the driver's door. When I get in to drive, it goes to my position when I open the door.

Both fobs look the same (there are no numbers written on either of them). However, when we picked the car up, the delivery guy set it up so one was tied to memory #1 and the other to #2.

I have a hard time believing that the same could not be done for the StingRay.

Can people confirm this does not work on the StingRay? I know it is not a big deal because she will not drive it regularly, and when she does she can just push the memory button the door, but it is nutty, in my opinion, for Chevy to not do something which GM has already had working perfectly for years on other cars.
 

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What I am wondering is if one of the fobs can be tied to driver memory position #1 and the other to position #2. For example, when my wife gets in her Cadillac, the seat automatically goes to her seating position when she opens the driver's door. When I get in to drive, it goes to my position when I open the door.

Both fobs look the same (there are no numbers written on either of them). However, when we picked the car up, the delivery guy set it up so one was tied to memory #1 and the other to #2.

I have a hard time believing that the same could not be done for the StingRay.

Can people confirm this does not work on the StingRay? I know it is not a big deal because she will not drive it regularly, and when she does she can just push the memory button the door, but it is nutty, in my opinion, for Chevy to not do something which GM has already had working perfectly for years on other cars.
You are correct Rodney. On my XTS the two fobs are identical. I put a spot of color on one. Then with just one with me, I set it to my preferences and M1. Then I took that one inside and got the second fob and repeated the process for my wife's settings and set to M2. The car recognizes the fob and goes to the respective setting. When I got RedHot I again put a spot of color on one of the fobs. However I haven't gotten around to setting up my wife's fob yet, but hope that it will work the same when I attempt it. :cool:
 

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Another solution would be to get his and hers C7s.
 
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Droopy Doors

Hello adamsocb/rdslon01:

A great review of the C7. Thanks I found it very informative. I do have a question for you and or anyone else who may have experienced my issue.
Did you or have you noticed that the drivers door in particular is not as smooth in opening as it was initially. Mine seems to drop ever so slightly when first released by the opening latch and makes more noise than it did when new. The passengers door is much more as it was originally. Drivers door also closes more roughly than it did originally.
Is there a fix for this and an explanation for it and will it require a trip to the dealership to have it corrected? I have heard of problems with the hinging of the doors and adjustments ie: shims etc but I am not sure about it.
I would appreciate any info you can give or any others reading this. Thank you in advance for your input.

STUNG:cool:
 

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I'm sorry, Stung, but I have no idea. I also have not heard of anyone else complaining of that problem. Of course, putting too much weight on the door, especially on the end far from the hinges, could cause it to droop over time. You don't use it to brace yourself, or provide support, when you get in or out, do you? If not, then take it in to the dealer as a warranty claim. If you do, then I am not sure if it can be warrantied, but maybe they can fix it for you at a reasonable price. Also, you probably don't want to just let it go as it may start having a secondary negative impact (scratched paint if it droops far enough, or start impacting the latching mechanism). So, I would take it in, personally.

Good luck!
 

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I agree with Rodney. I would take it in and have them take a look at it. It may be something that can be adjusted fairly easily or have the hinge bracket shimmed if needed. The door should not drop down after unlatching it and it may be something that could get worse and cause secondary damage if ignored. I hope they can resolve it quickly for you!
Derik
 

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Hello adamsocb/rdslon01:

A great review of the C7. Thanks I found it very informative. I do have a question for you and or anyone else who may have experienced my issue.
Did you or have you noticed that the drivers door in particular is not as smooth in opening as it was initially. Mine seems to drop ever so slightly when first released by the opening latch and makes more noise than it did when new. The passengers door is much more as it was originally. Drivers door also closes more roughly than it did originally.
Is there a fix for this and an explanation for it and will it require a trip to the dealership to have it corrected? I have heard of problems with the hinging of the doors and adjustments ie: shims etc but I am not sure about it.
I would appreciate any info you can give or any others reading this. Thank you in advance for your input.

STUNG:cool:
Stung; Is there any rubbing, or any indication that the door may rub an adjoining panel? There is a pip for a panel rub issue. (I'll have to check and follow up) I too seem to recall a couple of owners had to have some striker plate / shim adjustment made for the same concerns. As I recall, it is not an difficult issue for your service dept. to address.

I found this, but I don't think it will help with your issue, but who knows? It can't hurt to put it up here. Here it is:http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/stingray-corvette-tsb-recalls/4292-door-fender-rub-bulletin-pi1220.html
 

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Hey All:

Thanks for your input. I definately do have an issue and is seems to have gotten worse since the cold weather has arrived. I will have the dealership check it out and do what if anything is necessary to correct the issue. It is great to have the suggestions and support of the forums members on any issue we or I have with our fabulous rides. Thanks again and I will keep you posted. My issue with the high pitched noise coming from the torque tube or throw out bearing has been checked and found by the dealer not to be an issue. Actually it has stopped doing it and I am relieved. FYI of the guys who put info on the thread a couple of weeks back.

Rodney. I hear you but I have not done any heavy leaning or put any stress on the door. I can see how it could be an issue but not with this cowboy. I know that because of the comp. material used it is a possibility that there maybe expansion and contraction issues in colder weather but then other people would experience this and I do not see or hear of any. So, who knows. No rubbing on the door to fender edges issue that was evident with a couple other members a couple of months back. I will advise.

Regards guys & gals...
STUNG:confused:
 

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Hey Stung, okay that is a silver lining. In this case, it is definitely a 100% warrantable repair. Maybe they can rehang it using the same parts, or, even if they need new hinges, it will be okay because this expense is all on the General.

Now that you mention it, I also wonder if the dropping temperatures are having an impact on the door...

I hope they get it all squared away for you soon!
 
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