Because the area where the lower side valance exposes the frame is smaller than the average "pucks" attached to the lifting arms.Why would you need jack pucks if the jack already has some?
If it was poured to code it should be at least a 3000 psi reinforced slab. Luckily mine was poured as a 5", 5000 psi fiberglass reinforced done by the foundation contractor who also poured our house slab (built in 2007) and inspected by the building inspector even though the "back" garage is detached (I have 2 garages ). If yours is an attached garage it should be poured to code so you should be good to go.I'm seriously considering getting this or a 4 post lift...our home is 8 years old and as far as I know, the garage floors are just typical with no special reinforcement. Is that a concern?
No, nothing was in the way, ceiling is 8' 9" OH Door is 16' x 7' garage is 30' x 26' deepDid you have to alter the garage door rails and relocate the opener to a " Jack Screw" wall mount type? I will have to do both. I have enough height but the standard opener is in the way and I think the rails are too low too.
Your life depends on the integrity of your bolt anchors if that is of concern..I'm seriously considering getting this or a 4 post lift...our home is 8 years old and as far as I know, the garage floors are just typical with no special reinforcement. Is that a concern?
I have a paper listing all the things I did during the installation and what I learned I'm going to try to locate it and send you a copy or post it here either p.m. or on the forum so before you start the installation hold off till you can read itRegguy1 - thanks for all the photos! I just sent you a message. We just bought ourselves one of the MaxJax lifts for Christmas and your pics just saved us from mounting the posts in the wrong positions! I am curious of what you used for spacing, right now after readjusting we're at 120" from outside bottom of the base to opposite outside bottom? We have not drilled the bolt holes yet.