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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok ive had my cquartzuk and reload on for about a year and still looks great but i would like to refreshen everything and deep clean the car without distubing the base cquk i have on it now. Coming home from a 3000 mile run to the NE from FL.

So whats the procedure? I know recently when i wanted to take off a cquk smear it took 105 and 205, so im thinking of doing the following:

Light passover with nanoskin prep towel snd soap
Megs 205 with griots orbital and green finishing pad
Wash with RESET
Reload with RELOAD....

Any thoughts or advice?
 

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Ok ive had my cquartzuk and reload on for about a year and still looks great but i would like to refreshen everything and deep clean the car without distubing the base cquk i have on it now. Coming home from a 3000 mile run to the NE from FL.

So whats the procedure? I know recently when i wanted to take off a cquk smear it took 105 and 205, so im thinking of doing the following:

Light passover with nanoskin prep towel snd soap
Megs 205 with griots orbital and green finishing pad
Wash with RESET
Reload with RELOAD....

Any thoughts or advice?
Hey Glen,

So when you applied the UK did you do 1 or 2 coats? Ive only used UK a couple of times but ive used finest tons of times and we offer a "Boost" detail. Since you can't clay or polish the coating without disturbing it, we will first wash the car (if it's significantly dirty), then we will iron-x it to help keep things smooth. After it sets I'll do an Iron-X Snow Soap wash with a microfiber towel (to me seems to give more surface contact) and then thoroughly rinse.

Next we blow dry the car and then apply reload to everything that was coated (paint, wheel faces, glass, plastic trim etc). I actually just tried Reload at the 1:1 ratio for the first time and it was CRAZY easy to use. If you're feeling very enthusiastic you could reload your door jambs as you dry them. PERL the tires and pretty much good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did one coat of UK, but over the ladt year, FULL reload every quarter....its tricky, smears easily...

Thanks, so dilute reload 50%?
 

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I did one coat of UK, but over the ladt year, FULL reload every quarter....its tricky, smears easily...

Thanks, so dilute reload 50%?
You CAN. Sometimes on darker vehicles it may be easier to avoid any streaking...i had some streaking issues on occasion but thats only when it was above 100 degrees out here or i didn't have full shade to work in. 1:1 was easy to apply even in sun just as long as i did a small area and used either a very plush towel (like the Boa) or used two towels (one to spread and one to remove any left over streaks).

If straight works, go for it! You wont need to use a ton as it spreads nicely. If you have issues, go ahead and try 1:1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So Wills, whats your advice to deep clean the cquartz? I dont want to buy new products, I own too many already! I have carpro reset and can use that for a wash, I'm just wondering what I should do between the wash and reload in terms of possible polish, maybe menzerna 4500 and a wax spreader blue CCS pad? Its got almost zero cut....
 

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So Wills, whats your advice to deep clean the cquartz? I dont want to buy new products, I own too many already! I have carpro reset and can use that for a wash, I'm just wondering what I should do between the wash and reload in terms of possible polish, maybe menzerna 4500 and a wax spreader blue CCS pad? Its got almost zero cut....
When you say "deep clean," what is it you're trying to get rid of?
 

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The car will be concluding a 3000 mile trip so you tell me?, lotsa gloss but surface is not smooth
That I understand; what I'm asking is what types of contaminants you encountered during your trip -- knowing what you're dealing with is the first step to finding what you should use to remove them.

As Wills pointed out, you really can't clay or polish without potentially affecting the coating; despite this, one of the things that makes a coating like UK so great is that it will generally release contaminants pretty easily, and it is fairly chemical resistant as well. If a thorough and proper decontamination procedure with IronX and/or TarX (or similar products) doesn't release whatever is on (or embedded in) the finish, you've pretty much exhausted your "disturbance free" options.

Yes, you can clay and/or polish, but understand that with clay (or a speedy prep towel/etc.) you run the risk of marring, and with polishing you WILL remove a small portion of the coating (although if you're using a mild polish -- in this case my personal choice would be CarPro Reflect -- the chances you'd fully remove UK are slim given how thick and hard it cures when applied properly). How much of an effect this would have on long term durability is tough to say... as with anything, the durability and performance of the coating is totally dependent on how and where the vehicle is used and maintained.
 

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The car will be concluding a 3000 mile trip so you tell me?, lotsa gloss but surface is not smooth
I'd be inclined to agree with what charlie said. I really do try to avoid all polishing (since it is an abrasive even when used lightly) because it will effect the coating and if you do choose to go with one i'd go with Reflect.

If its not smooth id really recommend Iron X and Iron X Snow Foam...i know you dont want to purchase additional items but they will work well to help restore some of the smoothness. A clay bar or decon towel as charlie also mentioned does risk marring. I'd say give the Iron X combo a try on a panel (rinse car, wash with IX soap, rinse again, spray IX and allow to dwell, was again with IX soap and rinse) and see how much smoothness is restored. I will usually pour a little IX soap directly to the towel im using to wash with to keep it as concentrated as possible in situations like this (its strong so you wont need a ton).

Typically if the surface is not smooth, polishing isn't how i'd approach restoring the smoothness...decontamination is. Since you can't clay, the above is the best decon method I can come up with. If it still isn't to your liking then maybe take a decon towel and after rinsing, while the surface is still wet, do literally just 1-2 swipes over a section, dry it and see if its smooth...and then check for marring. I'd do this only as a last resort though and would try to avoid doing it if possible. Just my method anyway.

Worse case, chances are your top panels are likely the roughest, you could do the decon, then do a decon towel (as you normally would), then do a light pass with a finishing polish, Eraser and then add a fresh coat to just the top panels....just a thought :)

Let us know how it turns out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks wills et. al....

After getting home and really inspecting the car, I decided to take all the advice here and leave the finish alone, it really was not bad - so two deep soaking washes with Carpro RESET was all it needed and topping with DG Aquawax as a drying agent..and back to "glass gloss"...
 

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Your car looks great! Did you have any significant OP before the job and did the paint correction eliminate any of it? The depth of the color is just awesome!
Derik
 

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Some OP but the bigger issue was paint damage caused by washing. I have never put this car through an auto wash though I suspect the dealership did. They had the car for 24 hours and said they spent about 12 hours correcting the paint damage. Very professional operation recommended by Cory @ CarPro.
 
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