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Thanks guys. I'm feeling "comforted" now.
You are feeling"comforted" now? Then this is how you look:

1723_1.jpg

You are now a "comfort connect" plug. :)
 
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Good Deal!

Rodney or anyone else: My CTEK 4.3 has arrived and I have a question. I installed it and it has cycled to stage #7 "Float". This is described as "Maintaining the battery voltage at maximum level by providing a constant voltage charge". I thought that providing a "constant voltage charge" would not be good for a battery and that a tender should just cycle to charge when needed. Guess I'm wrong on that?

The other question I have is if stage 7 does what it says, when would stage 8 ever be used? Sounds like stage 8 would operate the way I thought a battery maintainer would operate and "gives a pulse when necessary to keep the battery fully charged". I'm obviously missing something here.
Hey Boomer,

Differentiate between voltage and current. Constant current forced through the battery terminals would kill a battery (think of a trickle charger). Constant voltage of an appropriate magnitude between the battery terminals is good for the battery.

I think the documentation which came with the tender leaves so much to be desired. Frankly, I found it severely lacking.

I don't understand the differences between stage 7 and stage 8. In fact, in all of the months that I have had the tender, I have only seen it in stage 8 one time.
Well, it looks like it is time to revive this old thread, and answer Boomer's question.

By the way, if you are interested in this topic, you probably should back up to post #54 and read through to here to get the history.

See the P.S. below if you are curious as to why this topic has come up again at this time.

Here is a graph which I ran across today while looking for the amperage capability of the CTEK MUS 4.3:

022514-CTEK-battery-charger-3-chart.jpg

As you can see, stage 8 can only be reached 10 days after stage 7 was entered. However, if the voltage on the battery drops any time during stage 7, the CTEK will start over again at stage 1. In that case, stage 8 would never be reached if the voltage keeps dropping in stage 7 without maintaining the correct level for at least 10 days.

P.S. Yesterday I had a "discussion" with a technician at the Interstate Battery Store in Concord, NC. He refused to warranty my nine-month-old Interstate battery in my Intrigue because it "isn't dead enough yet."

The story is that one day last week the battery would not start my Intrigue, which was parked at home. I charged the Interstate battery in the Intrigue overnight with the CTEK MUS 4.3 (which the Intrigue borrowed from his little sister Caroline). The next morning, the CTEK was in stage 7 and had turned the light green. I started the car, and drove about 30 minutes to Walmart. When I came back out of Walmart about 30 minutes later, the battery did not have enough charge to start the car again. I had to call roadside assistance provided through my car insurance (thank you Travelers Insurance).

I told the story to the technician at the Interstate battery store, but he said that leaving the tender on overnight isn't long enough to replenish the charge in the battery. He said the tender will only put out about 0.5 Amps, so an overnight charge is insufficient because of the limited amount of Amp-Hours provided in that time. I didn't know the rating on the CTEK MUS 4.3, so I could not argue that point, although I told him the CTEK is very sophisticated and would not have turned green if the battery had not reached the correct voltage. In other words, the battery's capacity to hold charge has decreased to the point that the electric potential energy stored in the battery is too low, not because the voltage (V) was low (the CTEK saw to that), but because the amount of charge (Q) which the battery could hold has decreased (recall that the electric potential energy stored is Q times V). Since Q is a function of the health of the battery, the conclusion is that the nine-month-old battery is faulty and needs to be replaced under warranty. He refused because the battery barely passed his load test (which, for two specific reasons, I am not convinced was performed correctly). Anyway, he said to keep driving it until the weather gets cold, let it strand me again, and then come back and the battery would probably be a little bit worse by then and fail his load test. He told me that I have plenty of time remaining on my warranty, since I am only nine months into the first 24 months of ownership (the Interstate MT-78 has a warranty that the replacement cost is 100% covered in the first 24 months of ownership). I told him I wanted to go ahead and do it now to prevent being stranded again. He just laughed about that and said that if I were screaming and causing a scene he could replace it then and there under warranty, but since I was calm and collected, I was not disrupting his store or the other customers. I told him that screaming and causing a scene wan't my style. He just shrugged his shoulders. Oh, and multiple times he kept trying to sell a new battery to me instead.

Anyway, today I looked up the amount of current that the CTEK MUS 4.3 can supply, because the number he estimated (0.5 Amps) seemed far too low to me. I found the answer: it is 4.3 Amps. Well, I think I now know why the name of the CTEK MUS 4.3 contains the numbers "4.3" in its name. Hahaha.

Now you know the reason why I was looking for more information on the CTEK MUS 4.3. While looking for the information, I found the graph above and it caused me to think of this thread. So, here is my post with the answer to the question Boomer asked long ago.
 
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I need to copy and paste all this from post 54 into a word doc for safe keeping and late nite reading!
 

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I need to copy and paste all this from post 54 into a word doc for safe keeping and late nite reading!
I will summarize it for you in three points:

1) The CTEK works.

2) Unless you scream and disrupt the store, don't expect to get your Interstate battery replaced under warranty.

3) I refused to scream; I refused to lose my temper; I refused to buy another new battery since the one I have now is only nine months old; the result is I still have a battery which is unreliable. But, hey, he will load test it again for me after I am stranded again.
 
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Rodney, you might consider buying one of these. The first summer I owned my Stingray, I was having electrical problems and I jump started it three times with this handy device. Cost is about $120 on Amazon. It will also charge electronic devices and it fits nicely in the rear storage compartment.

20170518_143309 (2).jpg 20170518_143009 (1).jpg
 
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Guess I am lucky I bought an ACDelco Gold Series battery and have never had to prove my battery was "dead enough". Battery has a 42 month free replacement warranty, and I have taken batteries in to the local parts store that sells them that were over 3 years old, and just told them that the battery is not holding a charge like it used to. All they did was check the date on the battery and gave me a new one.
 

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Guess I am lucky I bought an ACDelco Gold Series battery and have never had to prove my battery was "dead enough". Battery has a 42 month free replacement warranty, and I have taken batteries in to the local parts store that sells them that were over 3 years old, and just told them that the battery is not holding a charge like it used to. All they did was check the date on the battery and gave me a new one.
Other than GM dealers who else sells Delco batteries? I am having trouble finding an auto parts store in my area that sells them. I am going to check a couple GM dealers and see how much they want. What is a decent price for the Gold battery with a 42 month warranty? Thanks.
 

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I will summarize it for you in three points:

1) The CTEK works.

2) Unless you scream and disrupt the store, don't expect to get your Interstate battery replaced under warranty.

3) I refused to scream; I refused to lose my temper; I refused to buy another new battery since the one I have now is only nine months old; the result is I still have a battery which is unreliable. But, hey, he will load test it again for me after I am stranded again.
Rodney, sorry about your battery experience. I am the same way and would not do business with them again. You said you didn't like the way they load tested the battery. Did you have a third party load test it? Perhaps if you did and got a fail, you could present this evidence to them for a warranty claim. My experience over the years is (1) Interstates are cheap batteries, which is why so many places sell them and (2) I have always had good experience with Sears DieHard gold series batteries. Had one for eight years in a ZR-1 that was on a float charger for 4 months a year. I only replaced it out of concern for its age.

I know that as a diligent engineer, you have undoubtedly researched load testing, but I found an interesting primer on load testing here:. https://www.thoughtco.com/vehicle-battery-and-load-testing-4083840. I am sure there are more and better sources of info. --Bob
 
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Did you have a third party load test it?
No, I have not. I ran it through the recondition cycle on the CTEK MUS 4.3 Saturday night, and it made it okay through driving it on Sunday. I now plan on putting it on the regular tender cycle every night. That is a slight hassle, but not a big deal. So, I plan to just nurse it along with a tender every night until cold weather hits. When it is cold and the battery is a little bit older, I think it will have no problem falling on the other side of the line and failing his load test. I will then get my new replacement battery under warranty, and then move on after that.

By the way, my CCA on that battery is down from the rated 700 to 445 when he tested it on Saturday.

I have always had good experience with Sears DieHard gold series batteries. Had one for eight years in a ZR-1 that was on a float charger for 4 months a year. I only replaced it out of concern for its age.

I know that as a diligent engineer, you have undoubtedly researched load testing, but I found an interesting primer on load testing here:. https://www.thoughtco.com/vehicle-battery-and-load-testing-4083840. I am sure there are more and better sources of info. --Bob
Thank you for the advice on the Sears DieHard, and the reference material url, which I have now read. Yes, there is a lot of good technical content there. Thank you for the link.
 

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Get a AGM I know they make them that will fit but do not remember the details. Will be putting on in mine when this one dies. Use them on every vehicle I have owned the last 7 years. This fall will be putting in a couple of them in my 16 Ram oil burner.
 

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FWIW, I've been using the Battery Tender Plus for years, both C7's, babysitting cars, rec. vehicles, lawnmower batteries......... have not had one issue of battery failure or any problems with the vehicles.

View attachment 108345 View attachment 108353
Realize this is an old thread but my experience is the same as Norm's. Just about everything in my garage with a battery is on a BT plus and has been for years without issue. Even my daily driver gets plugged in a few times a month. i have found it is allowing me go go many years between battery replacements. I was told that my Harley Davidson battery had a life span of 3-5 years max however i was able to go 7 plus before changing out the battery before a big trip. Wasn't having any issue with the battery but i just wanted to be sure rather than stuck in a hotel parking lot on the road.
Last weekend i finally replaced my Red Top Optima ( replaced it with a Yellow Top Optima) in one of my old muscle cars after about 8 years. Most likely brought on by the extreme heat on a road trip combined with a faulty solenoid causing the starter to try and turn over .
Bottom line current battery tender Plus or Cetek unit are well worth the investment .

JMO
And i would add i purchased the multi bank BT Plus and a 25 foot cable . Run multiple cars on one unit with longer leads. Really is a good system for preventative maintenance.
 

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CTEK makes many models, some that would be suitable for both your Vette and your bikes. I have three, the factory C7 unit, a MUS 4.3 and a US 0.8.

They all work well. If you get a CTEK for your C7, you may want to also get the optional cig adapter for the factory trunk charging port.
what C7's power outlets can be used to charge it via cigarette lighter adapter?
the one next to gear leaver works for charging the car?
 

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what C7's power outlets can be used to charge it via cigarette lighter adapter?
the one next to gear leaver works for charging the car?
No, it does not. That one is electronically disconnected when the car has been turned off for some time.

The one to use is the one in the trunk on the passenger's side toward the rear of the car.
 

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Welcome to our forum Croc. Our C7s are designed to have a maintainer/charger connected via the accessory outlet in the right rear of the car. This is the only "live" port when the car is turned off (the front port by the gear shift, is live only when the car is running, or you have it on accessory power, and even then, it will shut off after 10 minutes or when the driver door is opened). The rear accessory outlet is actually just several inches from where your battery is under the rear carpeting.
 

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No, it does not. That one is electronically disconnected when the car has been turned off for some time.

The one to use is the one in the trunk on the passenger's side toward the rear of the car.

Rodney's answer is correct, but it's easy to make the interior sockets live all the time if you want to:

http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/how-s-diy-s-guides/17857-how-make-your-accessory-sockets-live-even-ignition-off.html
Welcome to our forum Croc. Our C7s are designed to have a maintainer/charger connected via the accessory outlet in the right rear of the car. This is the only "live" port when the car is turned off (the front port by the gear shift, is live only when the car is running, or you have it on accessory power, and even then, it will shut off after 10 minutes or when the driver door is opened). The rear accessory outlet is actually just several inches from where your battery is under the rear carpeting.

Thanks for the info guys - that's a good one !
 

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Hi there guys. I wasn't just in the hospital for a little bit and when I tried to start my C7 it wouldn't crank. I was then in the hospital again before being able to hook the 3300 charger up to the car. When I got back it is now completely dead where I had to use the key to open the hatch. I then hooked up the 3300 charger. It is now been charging for over 24 hours and it is still dead where I can't even open the doors. Do I keep charging it or is my battery just gone? It's a 2014 and this is the original battery. Thanks for your help in advance.
 

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Hi there guys. I wasn't just in the hospital for a little bit and when I tried to start my C7 it wouldn't crank. I was then in the hospital again before being able to hook the 3300 charger up to the car. When I got back it is now completely dead where I had to use the key to open the hatch. I then hooked up the 3300 charger. It is now been charging for over 24 hours and it is still dead where I can't even open the doors. Do I keep charging it or is my battery just gone? It's a 2014 and this is the original battery. Thanks for your help in advance.
Sorry for your hospital stays- hope you are doing much better! I'd guess your 2014 OEM battery is toast. This may be of value in getting a new battery put in https://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/how-diy-guides/62705-redhot-gets-battery-her-upcoming-4th-birthday-4.html#post735601.
 
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X2.. on above.
 
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