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Does anyone know the wattage of the new system? Any feedback from new owners on quality, etc?
Bose Sound System
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24 Posts
Hi,
I don't know the wattage, but I love the quality. My system is awesome and I do love the way that my phone syncs to it and I can listen to my favorite playlists. I had to adjust the bass a little because when it was on radio mode, it was too bassy for me, but some people might like that. Overall, it's the best system I've had in a vette.
I don't know the wattage, but I love the quality. My system is awesome and I do love the way that my phone syncs to it and I can listen to my favorite playlists. I had to adjust the bass a little because when it was on radio mode, it was too bassy for me, but some people might like that. Overall, it's the best system I've had in a vette.
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65 Posts
Compared to your Ferrari, I'm sure it's nowhere near as good
However to me, it was a solid 9. Bose is best of the best.
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4,656 Posts
WOW, I almost spit my drink all over the keyboard.......
Bose is FANTASTIC marketing coupled with some decent acoustic engineering. They have made some decent strides in tailoring the sound to match the acoustic challenges of a car but it's a manufactured sound, has been ever since the original 901's. To an audiophile Bose is akin to boom box and rarely taken seriously.
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4,656 Posts
That's what I meant to say
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4,607 Posts
Tom; I sure remember those days. I also remember being curious about the little red light on my first FM car radio. Stereo...Really?
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184 Posts
I'd say it's a 6 or 7, hard to want to mod it but it's not a real high end system.
Anyone know how to modify the Bose Audiopilot, when I get a comfortable audio level set while driving the sound system practically turns down to nothing while stopped at a red light, you can hardly hear it. I don't have hearing problems, it is the system. Appears you get a choice , either it is on or off. My GM Acadia has a similar feature that changes the levels as you drive based on speed, it also allows you to modify it thru a low, med , high set up and it works pretty well. The Audiopilot seems like a cheaper version while claiming it works on a more sophisticated level using a microphone in the cabin, doesn't work all that well for me that's for sure.
Edit - I googled "Bose Audiopilot sucks" and got a ton of entries on it. Seems I am not alone, folks complaining it is pretty terrible at what it actually is designed to do. It is supposed to monitor ambient noise and adjust the volume automatically. It has been around since at least 2000 in a lot of models and has lots of complaints about not doing what it is supposed to do. Too bad , at least the old GM system worked half decent. Guess I will just turn it off and go back to the paddles to adjust volume levels. So much for "new" technology in the C7.
Anyone know how to modify the Bose Audiopilot, when I get a comfortable audio level set while driving the sound system practically turns down to nothing while stopped at a red light, you can hardly hear it. I don't have hearing problems, it is the system. Appears you get a choice , either it is on or off. My GM Acadia has a similar feature that changes the levels as you drive based on speed, it also allows you to modify it thru a low, med , high set up and it works pretty well. The Audiopilot seems like a cheaper version while claiming it works on a more sophisticated level using a microphone in the cabin, doesn't work all that well for me that's for sure.
Edit - I googled "Bose Audiopilot sucks" and got a ton of entries on it. Seems I am not alone, folks complaining it is pretty terrible at what it actually is designed to do. It is supposed to monitor ambient noise and adjust the volume automatically. It has been around since at least 2000 in a lot of models and has lots of complaints about not doing what it is supposed to do. Too bad , at least the old GM system worked half decent. Guess I will just turn it off and go back to the paddles to adjust volume levels. So much for "new" technology in the C7.
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2,933 Posts
I suppose it is better than the AM radio on my first car, a 1951 Buick. 6 volt, tubes, with a vibrator to break up the dc so that a transformer could step up the voltage to the tubes. But I loved the antenna, which was roof mounted just above the windshield. It was attached to a ball knob inside the cabin, which allowed you to rotate the antenna down to a horizontal position to extend or retract it. One speaker behind a chrome grille.
You turned that thing on, the vibrator started humming, and in about 15 seconds sound started coming out.
You turned that thing on, the vibrator started humming, and in about 15 seconds sound started coming out.
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3,667 Posts
I'm happy with the system, its range of features and the flexibility it offers the user. Since I own a convertible, and spend 70% of the time with the top down, it's almost impossible to discern audio quality. I leave the music on lightly, in the background, so I can focus on (and enjoy) the sounds of the car.
Funny you mention that Rob - the C7 AM radio may not be better! I dialed-in WGN in Chicago (a 50kW station) to get the news one day and I was disappointed by both the reception and sound quality - my 2005 Civic is superior in both aspects. Fortunately, I rarely use AM.
I do not expect audiophile sound in any car, and some audiophiles still believe vinyl is best, so that means any car system is not going to meet the standards of a few folks. It is all subjective, needless to say. The Bose system in the Stingray to me is quite adequate. I turned off the automatic sound level, because I do not like the level changing with the speed of the car. I suppose some may choose to install a better system, but I am happy with what came in the car. As I have written before, my only problem is with the software in the infotainment system, which could be improved.
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2,933 Posts
Mark, would you believe that Chrysler actually sold cars with vinyl record players in the 1950s?
Road Tunes: Weird Vintage 1950s In-Car Record Players | Gadgets, Science & Technology
Road Tunes: Weird Vintage 1950s In-Car Record Players | Gadgets, Science & Technology
Pretty amazing!
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392 Posts
Good enough for me.
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18,670 Posts
We have an excellent post that will help many adjust the factory system so it works getter. Thank you, "CaryKen!" His negative comments about "centerpoint" are echoed by many.
***
Tone controls were initially tough for me to find. Once you know how to navigate the menus properly, they are easy enough to get to. You get a simple three-slider equalizer for BASS, MID, TREBLE. Just the kind of rough boosts and cuts you have seen on cars for many decades. I did not see any factory-built equalization curves that you sometimes see in car systems with categories like "Jazz", "Pop", "Classical." That's fine with me, as I find them mostly useless.
You get four mode settings for "Driver", "Centerpoint", "Rear", and "Normal". All of them are very obviously digitally processed to within an inch of the music's life. You can hear artifacts and signal games in each mode.
"Driver" does a good job of placing the perceived focal point just about resting on the dash in front of you.
"Rear" I suppose would be for tailgating parties when you have the trunk lid up and want to blast songs for the crowd. It is much more muffled and lacking in highs for the cockpit occupants. Maybe you could use it for quiet background noise if you were trying to have a conversation and didn't want to actually listen to the music. But I think on the road it would get covered by normal driving noises.
"Normal" seems to be the classic front-center oriented soundstage balanced for both occupants.
"Centerpoint" is a fake surround sound processor that synthesizes a center channel and adds some delay to the rears. I found it annoying. It adds a slight echoey quality to the music and sounded the most fake of the modes.
In all modes there is also a simple graphical fader/balance that lets you move the perceived focal point front/rear and left/right. It worked better than most I have played with. Changes were obvious but did not overly affect whatever tone quality the settings had previously produced.
As many have said, the default bass is overemphasized. Audiophiles will recognize the design criteria from other low-end systems... It favors big booming cone excursions that move a lot of air and produce a tactile response... "You can feel the bass." But it does this at the expense of crispness and speed of response. So the bass "blooms and booms" and ends up muddying the sound. I immediately turned it down. That reduces both the negative and positive effects. The music gets crisper, but loses the bottom end."
*****
Thanks again CaryKen.
***
Tone controls were initially tough for me to find. Once you know how to navigate the menus properly, they are easy enough to get to. You get a simple three-slider equalizer for BASS, MID, TREBLE. Just the kind of rough boosts and cuts you have seen on cars for many decades. I did not see any factory-built equalization curves that you sometimes see in car systems with categories like "Jazz", "Pop", "Classical." That's fine with me, as I find them mostly useless.
You get four mode settings for "Driver", "Centerpoint", "Rear", and "Normal". All of them are very obviously digitally processed to within an inch of the music's life. You can hear artifacts and signal games in each mode.
"Driver" does a good job of placing the perceived focal point just about resting on the dash in front of you.
"Rear" I suppose would be for tailgating parties when you have the trunk lid up and want to blast songs for the crowd. It is much more muffled and lacking in highs for the cockpit occupants. Maybe you could use it for quiet background noise if you were trying to have a conversation and didn't want to actually listen to the music. But I think on the road it would get covered by normal driving noises.
"Normal" seems to be the classic front-center oriented soundstage balanced for both occupants.
"Centerpoint" is a fake surround sound processor that synthesizes a center channel and adds some delay to the rears. I found it annoying. It adds a slight echoey quality to the music and sounded the most fake of the modes.
In all modes there is also a simple graphical fader/balance that lets you move the perceived focal point front/rear and left/right. It worked better than most I have played with. Changes were obvious but did not overly affect whatever tone quality the settings had previously produced.
As many have said, the default bass is overemphasized. Audiophiles will recognize the design criteria from other low-end systems... It favors big booming cone excursions that move a lot of air and produce a tactile response... "You can feel the bass." But it does this at the expense of crispness and speed of response. So the bass "blooms and booms" and ends up muddying the sound. I immediately turned it down. That reduces both the negative and positive effects. The music gets crisper, but loses the bottom end."
*****
Thanks again CaryKen.
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