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I asked the dealer if they would change the oil for me before I received the car and they told me I would have to sign a letter. I will change the mobile 1 oil out my self and put a non synthetic oil in for the break in period.
 

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I still like the owners manual instructions--its because I used to write tech manuals. cutnout aka Charlie
 

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I asked the dealer if they would change the oil for me before I received the car and they told me I would have to sign a letter. I will change the mobile 1 oil out my self and put a non synthetic oil in for the break in period.
And toss the receipt from whoever does the changeover to break-in oil and then back to Mobil... I'm not giving GM an excuse on warranty issues...
 

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And toss the receipt from whoever does the changeover to break-in oil and then back to Mobil... I'm not giving GM an excuse on warranty issues...
Keeping receipts is ALWASY a good thing but there is no dealer conspiricy here.....

This is really an urban myth, dealers don't have TIME or MONEY, to verify what kind of oil you used, or even when it was changed. They would have to call for a oil testing service and pay for it. I have worked the warranty side for years And as long as the oil still flows and looks fine, a mfr does not care. Now if I open an engine and find total sludge, worn out parts that should have been lubricated, extremely low oil like 3 qts down or no oil( yes seen that), then the owner is in a bit of trouble. Further you would specically have to prove that the oil used was the culprit to have a warranty problem. Dealers don't want problems, they just wanna be paid by you or GM, thru warranty. The last thing they want is to push a car to the side while they instigate a fight.....

As before somebody posts a dissenting view, the above holds for the dealer network, I'm sure somebody has done something diff....
 

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Keeping receipts is ALWASY a good thing but there is no dealer conspiricy here.....

This is really an urban myth, dealers don't have TIME or MONEY, to verify what kind of oil you used, or even when it was changed. They would have to call for a oil testing service and pay for it. I have worked the warranty side for years And as long as the oil still flows and looks fine, a mfr does not care. Now if I open an engine and find total sludge, worn out parts that should have been lubricated, extremely low oil like 3 qts down or no oil( yes seen that), then the owner is in a bit of trouble. Further you would specically have to prove that the oil used was the culprit to have a warranty problem. Dealers don't want problems, they just wanna be paid by you or GM, thru warranty. The last thing they want is to push a car to the side while they instigate a fight.....

As before somebody posts a dissenting view, the above holds for the dealer network, I'm sure somebody has done something diff....
Good point of view Glen e. I expect to change my second fill of Mobil 1 at the dealer at about 40%. One thing I've definitely noticed since using the 'break-in' oil is absolutely no drop in oil levels as I drive so far...
 

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After the hassle my sister had with VW getting a new motor when her oil sludged.... (I do my own oil changes on 4 cars and 4 motorcycles) For proof of performance I take photos of the odometer, oil jug and filter used. I print out the photos and attach the receipts and drop it in the file. If anyone questions my actions under warranty they will choke on the proof.
 

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30 years ago VW tried to void a rebuild on my Scirocco due to failed valve guides claiming no oil changes. I proceeded to deliver to the dealer a trash bag filled with 5 used VW oil filters. The claim was paid and 6 months later they issued a worldwide recall on valve guides. The bastards knew there was an issue and they still tried to void my claim.

But I agree with Glen, in this day and age oil is rarely considered the culprit unless it's either not there or is obvious it's never been changed.
 

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What amazes me is, there are so many people and automotive businesses out there today telling you how to drive your car while breaking it in.

Most of their methods are completely opposite of what General Motors recommends.

If I follow their recommendations instead of GM's, will they pay to fix my car when it breaks down? I think not.

I'll stick with what's recommended by GM.
 

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For some reason I tend to think GM
knows what the are doing. Will go
by their recommendation. Also think
you can't beat Mobil 1 synthetic
It once saved me from a blown engine.
 

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GM is concerned, as a company, about warranty work. Nothing wrong with that. If you drive it per their recommendations, then it will work out great and the transmission and brakes will be perfect. In terms of the engine, you will not have burned the engine in properly and may have lost a few HP due to ring seating. No problem if you are not worried about max. HP. Me, I want every drop of HP.

I have built a few race cars in my time and know that the first thing you do with a new motor is rev it high. Gm doesn't want you to do this, since they assume you will do it incorrectly and will damage the tranny and brakes in the process.

In the last 20 years, I have always beaten on a new car on the day I get it. Of course, beating on it is a little different than you think. You don't want to beat on the brakes or tranny, so you do not perform any pedal to the metal events. I simply run the car in second/third gear all the time for the first 10-20 miles, keeping the rev's very high but not punching it much (so the the load on the tranny and brakes is low). You want to seat the rings on the engine, that is what is going to give you the most HP (Correctly me if I am wrong guys). By beating on the engine, via high rev's, low torque, you break in the rings, but allow the tranny and brakes to break in (Like GM wants).
As an example, I had an M6, which is known to be an oil burner on the M6 Board. I never changed the oil, nor filled it early and yet, beat the crap out of it as described above, when I bought it. It was fast and never burned a drop of oil after my burn in.
 

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Dave,

I agree with you. The wording in the manual just looks like it was written by lawyers and actuaries, not engineers. As a contrast, the wording on my 2014 Ram 1500 is short and to the point. Considering the metallurgy and technology are basically the same I think it shows the difference between the GM behemoth and the more engineering focused Chrysler.

ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS (Ram Truck with Hemi V8)
A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle.
Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.
While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.
 

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It was always my understanding that part of the reason for varying speeds and throttle settings was to change the temperature, up and down, of internal parts such as pistons, rings, valves, etc. so as to relieve internal stresses in the parts, particularly cast parts.

Seems to me that, compared to 50-60 years ago, manufacturing tolerances and micro-finishing of mating surfaces is much more precise these days, reducing the actual scraping of metal against metal during break in that may have existed in the past.
 

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Mark,

Nice... Chrysler is basically saying beat the crap out of that truck (But, of course, obey all traffic laws). A little lawyer content, but not too much.

I am going to beat up my Vette and then do a dyno. (I am doing the dyno because I am putting in a Procharger (after about 1500 miles) and want to see the before and after). Let's see who has the most hp after break in. I am also taking it to the track (1/4 mile) before and after.
The good news is that the Procharger can be removed with no trace of the install, so if I fry the motor, GM covers it. (Shhhh, don't tell anyone).
 

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GM is concerned, as a company, about warranty work. Nothing wrong with that. If you drive it per their recommendations, then it will work out great and the transmission and brakes will be perfect. In terms of the engine, you will not have burned the engine in properly and may have lost a few HP due to ring seating. No problem if you are not worried about max. HP. Me, I want every drop of HP.

I have built a few race cars in my time and know that the first thing you do with a new motor is rev it high. Gm doesn't want you to do this, since they assume you will do it incorrectly and will damage the tranny and brakes in the process.

In the last 20 years, I have always beaten on a new car on the day I get it. Of course, beating on it is a little different than you think. You don't want to beat on the brakes or tranny, so you do not perform any pedal to the metal events. I simply run the car in second/third gear all the time for the first 10-20 miles, keeping the rev's very high but not punching it much (so the the load on the tranny and brakes is low). You want to seat the rings on the engine, that is what is going to give you the most HP (Correctly me if I am wrong guys). By beating on the engine, via high rev's, low torque, you break in the rings, but allow the tranny and brakes to break in (Like GM wants).
As an example, I had an M6, which is known to be an oil burner on the M6 Board. I never changed the oil, nor filled it early and yet, beat the crap out of it as described above, when I bought it. It was fast and never burned a drop of oil after my burn in.
And you are doing it right. I have over 40 years of engine building from OEM stock to NHRA Championship engines. GM is only looking at warranty in the initial stage of ownership. Anyone doubting this has never worked as a GM or other auto maker technician that gets to inspect the causes of oil consumption, etc. from follow the draconian directions in the owners manual. Just as the ignition switch .67 cent fix. Trust them completely! Every supercar engine is broken in on either and engine dyno or chassis dyno just as we break them in. This ensures proper ring seating.

Any here old enough to remember all cars/truck used to come with break-in oil in the 60's and 70's? Then you HAD to follow instructions the same as today.....that oil was only enough protection to ensure bearings and journals were protected if run very easy, and had a very easy to break lubrication barrier between the rings and the cylinder wall so the rings did seat properly driven easy, and it was critical to drain no more than 1000 miles and then fill w/standard oil and drive hard.

The industry is trying to accommodate those that buy a vehicle, get in and drive for 10k miles before the hood is even opened. Thats why all the excess oil consumption issues. I welcome anyone to stop into our facility and see just what happens inside your cylinders if you drive easy with a syn blend or full syn that critical first few hundred miles. We always have 6-10 plus engines in tear down or rebuild here for a tech to show you and give a crash course on it all. You wont trust blindly in any corporate BS after seeing this first hand. And there are always those that will do fine breaking in easy, but that is a gamble. The hard break-in will ensure proper ring-seat.
 
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