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Just picked mine up today and drove it home about 200 mi -- wow. Good purchase. It's a 2LT Blade Silver with Black Interior, manual trans, performance exhaust, MRC, carbon flash everything, black wheels -- didn't order it, but the dealer had it tricked out just like I wanted. Looked all over for it and got a great deal. Pic to follow. Real excited.
Welcome to the forum, Musclehead, from a native Kentuckian!
 

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Now have just over a thousand miles on mine. I limited the revs but also try to run it up and down while putting on the first 1000. Goosed it once in a while up to about 4500/5000 but not much above that. I typically wouldn't run an engine up to redline at any time. At 1000 miles I changed the oil and filter myself. Just makes sense if their are parts in the engine that create filings much of that is going to occur in that first 1000 as those parts get used to each other. Right or wrong changing the oil and filter makes me feel better, do that with each new vehicle I have owned, used synthetic. The car will never be tracked and I don't run it hard. During that first 1000 the engine didn't use a drop of oil, levels were exactly the same on the dip as the day I picked it up, and I checked it at the dealer. Didn't reset the oil life indicator, will now change it when it tells me it is time or each year if I don't put on enough miles.
 

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Question......

Can I still do a hard break in with the oil that is in the engine from the factory? or is it worthless because it is a synthetic that is just too slippery?
 

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Break in as normal with the factory fill synthetic oil.

That's why the break in period has went from 500 miles up to 1500 miles.
What do you mean... why was there an increase in mileage also my car has no 4500 rev limiter it doesnt look like I havent taken it past that but I thought it was 4500 until 500 miles. I do have a 15' though not sure of thats why
 

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I am going to hard break in my car when I get it in 2 weeks. I have read way to many articles that say a hard break in is much better for your engine. Back to my question, will the synthetic oil from the factory keep my engine from breaking in properly??

What do you mean... why was there an increase in mileage also my car has no 4500 rev limiter it doesnt look like I havent taken it past that but I thought it was 4500 until 500 miles. I do have a 15' though not sure of thats why
 

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I'm wondering the same thing. Sure a proper oil would be better but if you keep factory oil will it still do a good job at seating the rings and is there a guide for this hard break in.
I am going to hard break in my car when I get it in 2 weeks. I have read way to many articles that say a hard break in is much better for your engine. Back to my question, will the synthetic oil from the factory keep my engine from breaking in properly??
 

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Question......

Can I still do a hard break in with the oil that is in the engine from the factory? or is it worthless because it is a synthetic that is just too slippery?
Of course you can, the idea that synthetic oil is any "slipperier" than conventional oil is urban myth. Exxon/Mobil dispelled the "break in oil" concept well over a decade ago in partnership with multiple major engine manufactures, get over the idea you need a special oil, those days are long gone. (the fact Honda adds extra molly to their new engines is irrelevant, no other manufacturer in the world does that and in fact, molybdenum actually DECREASES friction).

To the 500 vs. 1500 mile question, initial break-in is in 2 steps, 500 miles for RPM restrictions and 1500 for racing or track use. It's similar to GM's break-in procedure for their trucks using the same Ecotech platform, 500 miles for RPM and 1500 miles for towing. The 1500 mile number is most likely more for the transmission and differential. Remember, it's a drivetrain break-in, not just the engine.
 

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I believe break in, these days, is more about having parts heating and cooling to relieve internal stresses than it is about wearing in mating parts that rub against each other. Manufacturing tolerances are much greater these days than 40 years ago.
 

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Milliwatt Bob-

I have to disagree with that.

Tolerances are tighter than ever and we still enjoy a higher level of performance. This is due to the fact that 40 years ago, there were no (computer) programs available to run, not only interference analysis, but more importantly stress analysis. We do mechanical designs where I work and we can do stress testing, (via the Solidworks program that we use) to determine stress levels as well as search for areas where we can improve, based on perceived(simulated) failures. I am sure the automakers have programs 10x-100x more powerful than Solidworks and thus are able to do failure and stress analysis to the nth degree (whatever that means!). Therefore, the cars get 30+ MPG with 450+ horsepower. For max HP, it is more about the important things, such as ring seating, that determine how your machine (C7) will run. This involves common racing engine build practices, not just what is on the GM manual. Gm wants you to have a car that last a long time. They have no real desire to maximize your HP. I want a car where rings are seated and I get max. HP!

I know other guys that in the racing engine crowd can chime in here.
 

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Whoops, by saying that tolerances are "greater", I meant that the tolerances are tighter, not more loose.
 

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Sorry Dude...

A long explanation from me.

I would expect craploads of comments on this one!

Added a smiley. :)
 

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Break in as normal with the factory fill synthetic oil.

That's why the break in period has went from 500 miles up to 1500 miles.
There is no more ring seating after 400-500 miles max (far less in most cases) as the hard glazes will have set in by that time. Breaking is critical that there is the ability to over come the friction barrier the oil provides. The better the oil, the more difficult for the break-in process to occur.

Here is what GM sends actual shops/techs for instructions (not the consumer) for any that missed this:



The ring and pinon gears will need to be heat cycled, etc. and have time to mesh in....but bearings/races/journals, etc. will never be as perfect as when the engine is first assembled. And as we see with gear changes, we break them in with conventional lube and then swap to synthetic after a 100 miles or so. If not, we see "hot spots" were there are high spots that may not mesh properly with the protection full syn lubricants provide.

There is nothing I can think of in any component that would be best to wait 1500 miles......but most will be fine following that method. We just want to assure the best possible outcome is why we follow the "short way" as described in the GM instructions for techs.
 

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Milliwatt Bob-

I have to disagree with that.

Tolerances are tighter than ever and we still enjoy a higher level of performance. This is due to the fact that 40 years ago, there were no (computer) programs available to run, not only interference analysis, but more importantly stress analysis. We do mechanical designs where I work and we can do stress testing, (via the Solidworks program that we use) to determine stress levels as well as search for areas where we can improve, based on perceived(simulated) failures. I am sure the automakers have programs 10x-100x more powerful than Solidworks and thus are able to do failure and stress analysis to the nth degree (whatever that means!). Therefore, the cars get 30+ MPG with 450+ horsepower. For max HP, it is more about the important things, such as ring seating, that determine how your machine (C7) will run. This involves common racing engine build practices, not just what is on the GM manual. Gm wants you to have a car that last a long time. They have no real desire to maximize your HP. I want a car where rings are seated and I get max. HP!

I know other guys that in the racing engine crowd can chime in here.

Very correct and no politics involved with your answer. Good understanding.
 

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Have you solved the oil blow-by through the PCV valve and into the air filter housing problem?

If not, the problem would be even more prevalent than it is now if these "drive it like you stole it" procedures are followed.
 

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I got a question regarding the posted GM service manual page: Does the plant perform that Break-in procedure up to step 10 on the dyno? And then it's up to the consumer to do the remaining 500 mile break-in? Because step 11 seems pretty close to what the car manual says to do.
Thanks!


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I got a question regarding the posted GM service manual page: Does the plant perform that Break-in procedure up to step 10 on the dyno? And then it's up to the consumer to do the remaining 500 mile break-in? Because step 11 seems pretty close to what the car manual says to do.
Thanks!


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No, the engine is started for the first time, brought up to temperature them run on a rolling road Dyno for 2 or 3 minutes. It's then run through a water leak test and a squeak and rattle course then buttoned up for shipment.
 
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