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I have a 2015 Z51 M7 with around 24k miles on it that I ordered new and am only driver of car. It just recently developed a clicking noise that only seems to occur under the following conditions.
1 - Fully warmed up
2 - Not under power (ie coasting)
3 - Around 35 to 40 mph in 3rd gear (It may have also occurred in fourth, but I am not completely sure on that)
4 - Noise will immediately stop when clutch is depressed.

Sound is clearly coming from rear of car. Per other posts I changed the clutch fluid (ranger method) and replaced the rear differential fluid. The rear dif seemed to be low but not quite as dirty as what some are seeing. Sound still occurs after these changes.

Even under these conditions it doesn't always happen, it is sporadic. I have only heard it about 5 times now. The last time that I heard it I didn't push in clutch and recorded the attached video (if I can figure out how to attach). After putting in clutch it seems to not immediately return. I have stopped driving to prevent any further damage. I am not able to save the video due to 3.4 Mb Zip size. Any ideas to attach video are appreciated

The sound is a periodic clicking sound like a baseball card in the spokes of a bike. You will noticed a sudden increase in frequency near end of video. I am hoping to get some ideas to take to dealer before they tear everything up. I just went past 3 year mark. but this should fall under drive train and should still be covered. Thanks for everyone's help, I really want to get my baby back on the road again soon.
 

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Post the video to YouTube, and then use the "Insert Video" icon to post here.
 
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JRocket, welcome aboard to SRF. Hopefully we maybe able to offer a solution after posting a video with the noise.

SF
Rick
 

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I know you said it is from the rear, but it sounds very similar to the fuel injectors system.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It does sound like fuel injectors a bit, but the location is all wrong. One of the earlier times it happened it was 2 -3 times louder and I immediately put in clutch to stop it. The injector noise it always a consistent engine bay chatter on cold startup. As far as throw-out bearing, wouldn't that be in the front bell house leading to a noise that originates more from front of car? It is clearly from back end of car. I wish it was the throw out bearing, as that seems easier to deal with then differential issues. From experience with local dealers, do you guys think that I should go to where I purchased (they only sell a few corvettes each year, but I had a really good experience with) or go to a more corvette specific location like Purifoy East of Denver which seems to deal with more corvettes. It is of course much more difficult to shuttle to a dealer that is 3 hours away on way, but I do worry that local dealer may create more problems. I was kind of thinking about sending video to a couple of dealers and seeing what they can come up with and picking the that makes the most sense. Anybody have any other ideas?
 

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You might be on to something. Hadn't thought about that. These forums are great to get out of the box ideas. I will bring this up with dealership.
 

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Hello All! I thank you all for the chance to join the forum!! I just got the same exact problem with my 16 Z51/21,000 miles. It goes away as soon as I clutch it. Dealership saying torque tube bearings but I have also read it could be the exhaust actuators. Any other thoughts on this? Thanks for any insight.
 

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Hello All! I thank you all for the chance to join the forum!! I just got the same exact problem with my 16 Z51/21,000 miles. It goes away as soon as I clutch it. Dealership saying torque tube bearings but I have also read it could be the exhaust actuators. Any other thoughts on this? Thanks for any insight.
Welcome to our forum CPO27. It is very difficult to offer insight into a sound on your C7 without actually hearing it. Suggest you have a passenger video it and then post it. You Z51 should still be under warranty, why not let the dealer handle it?
 

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Thanks, I have a video but having issues uploading.... gonna take it to the dealership on Monday, they said it should be covered... hopefully! Lol
 

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Thanks, I have a video but having issues uploading.... gonna take it to the dealership on Monday, they said it should be covered... hopefully! Lol
Great. Keep us posted.
 

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Will definitely keep you guys posted on the this....Here's the video.....
Definitely not normal. Hopefully the dealer will fix it when you take it in.
 

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Well, just left the dealership.....Bad news, warranty ran out in May ?? Cost: $1493, and it was the lower passenger exhaust actuator, they said that the whole passenger side muffler had to be replaced. So i gracefully declined and am considering pulling the 42 fuse instead. They told me it would affect drive-ability, because of the computer and o2 sensors along with a check engine light. I've heard of guys pulling it for more pronounced exhaust but no associated issues....Has anyone pulled that fuse with positive results? Thanks again for any insight!
 

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Did some research here on the forum with previous posts about the fuse, I went ahead and pulled it, no CEI, no issues!! Saved me almost $1500. So if you guys run into this issue and haven't done it already, pull fuse 42....I ran in sport mode before anyway so I really didn't notice any difference except the fact that the god awful racket coming from those actuators is now gone!
Cheers Everyone and Merry Christmas!!
 

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Did some research here on the forum with previous posts about the fuse, I went ahead and pulled it, no CEI, no issues!! Saved me almost $1500. So if you guys run into this issue and haven't done it already, pull fuse 42....I ran in sport mode before anyway so I really didn't notice any difference except the fact that the god awful racket coming from those actuators is now gone!
Cheers Everyone and Merry Christmas!!
I wonder if you ran in track instead of sport if you would even have to pull the fuse. I run the engine sound management in track, and I don't think my valves ever actuate to close.
 

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Not sure i've only ran it in track a few times, I always run mine in sport, but with that actuator failing it was annoying to say the least, but it seems odd though, since I pulled it it seems a little peppier in the same range where that noise was happening, between 25 and 40...But it's probably just a figment of the imagination....just glad the noise is gone!!
 

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Glad that you have solved the problem! On a side note, I had a similar noise but it was under different circumstances. So, I waited for your resolution before guessing. In my case, the noise was constant, at low speeds, and most notable when driving in parking lots. It turned out to be the rear sway bar end links and was an easy fix.
 
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