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I have a 2015 Z51 M7 with around 24k miles on it that I ordered new and am only driver of car. It just recently developed a clicking noise that only seems to occur under the following conditions.
1 - Fully warmed up
2 - Not under power (ie coasting)
3 - Around 35 to 40 mph in 3rd gear (It may have also occurred in fourth, but I am not completely sure on that)
4 - Noise will immediately stop when clutch is depressed.

Sound is clearly coming from rear of car. Per other posts I changed the clutch fluid (ranger method) and replaced the rear differential fluid. The rear dif seemed to be low but not quite as dirty as what some are seeing. Sound still occurs after these changes.

Even under these conditions it doesn't always happen, it is sporadic. I have only heard it about 5 times now. The last time that I heard it I didn't push in clutch and recorded the attached video (if I can figure out how to attach). After putting in clutch it seems to not immediately return. I have stopped driving to prevent any further damage. I am not able to save the video due to 3.4 Mb Zip size. Any ideas to attach video are appreciated

The sound is a periodic clicking sound like a baseball card in the spokes of a bike. You will noticed a sudden increase in frequency near end of video. I am hoping to get some ideas to take to dealer before they tear everything up. I just went past 3 year mark. but this should fall under drive train and should still be covered. Thanks for everyone's help, I really want to get my baby back on the road again soon.
I heard one other guy with this same problem. His was solved by taking the rear wheels off and really cleaning the mating surfaces with brake cleaner and torqueing them the right amount. I know sounds too simple but it worked!
 

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Welcome to our forum EZrodder. Yes, the issue of having some dirt on the surface of the wheel and hub can cause clicking. Many service centers do clean the areas as you noted before remounting the wheels for that specific reason.
 
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I wonder if you have tried to get it fixed anywhere else. I am pretty sure the actuator is GM part number 82209069 (perhaps your dealer parts guy could verify that) and they seem to be available. Saw one on Ebay for $150. If you don't do your own work maybe you could find a local shop familiar with C7s to swap yours out. There is a Flowmaster video on YouTube demonstrating how to transfer the stock actuator to a Flowmaster pipe that says you need to remove the rear valence and the affected muffler to get at it but I don't really know about that. Then it is just a matter of four screws. Seems like there should be a solution available to you that is much less expensive than $1,500. --Bob
 

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Well, just left the dealership.....Bad news, warranty ran out in May ?? Cost: $1493, and it was the lower passenger exhaust actuator, they said that the whole passenger side muffler had to be replaced. So i gracefully declined and am considering pulling the 42 fuse instead. They told me it would affect drive-ability, because of the computer and o2 sensors along with a check engine light. I've heard of guys pulling it for more pronounced exhaust but no associated issues....Has anyone pulled that fuse with positive results? Thanks again for any insight!
Pull it. I did. No issues.
 
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