This is a " Public Reply " response from GM. But since your Corvette is a 8 year old model, I think you should take the offer. You can also put the cost towards a Non-DOD engine, which you could count on to never again explode from this 'VooDoo Engineering' mistake that GM should have known was a ticking time bomb. One that has been dispontment from the very start of DOD engines back to 1981, and it's no better than the 368 Cadillac engine. To make a engine reliable, it has to be simple yet strong. And this kind of Engineering Mistake' is ironic coming from the manufacturer who brought us the Small block V8, of which over 108 Million copies have been manufactured since 1955 !

 

A few weeks ago my 2016 Stingray w/ manual trans started tapping around the #7 cylinder area. Diagnosed as a bad lifter. My car has 116K miles. I never use the ECO setting so DOD was not enabled.

I am having a new motor put in along with some other work. Cost is about $15K. I quit driving it so as to not grenade the engine because they would have to charge an extra $3K for core charge.

I'm disappointed about losing the engine at 116K miles but I otherwise love the car. But man, I sure would be bummed to have to do it at 18K miles!

Can ask, (and please no offense intended), did you keep your oil changed at 3-5K miles? Did you race your car? Is yours an automatic trans? Did you defeat the DOD function?

 

My 2014 blew at 20k. No help from company. It was up to date on all services and never run on track.

 

Oil was changed every 3,000 miles! Only driven 2,500 miles a year and never driven hard!! Only 18,000 miles!!!!

 

J'ai également ce problème actuellement.
une c7 stingray de 2015 avec 107000 kms.
Après une reprogrammation moteur/boite et vidange chez lsx calibration, après 700 kms voilà un claquement moteur qui apparaît
je suis persuadé que c'est un poussoirs hydrauliques, le claquement s'entend surtout en charge entre 1500 et 2000trs a 30-40 kmh et après plus rien.
au ralentit aussi en accélérant à 2000très le claquement s'entend
J'ai essayé avec un long tournevis à l'oreille et le résultat est flagrant, tournevis sur le cache culbu à gauche ca claque nettement, à droite rien et sur le bloc à droite rien et à gauche on entend légèrement mais sans doute la raisonnance du poussoirs côté gauche.

Est ce que ca peut venir a cause d'un niveau d,huile trop elevé, 5mm au dessus du max ?

Comment un poussoir hydraulique peut flinguer un piston ?

je suis ds le sud-ouest de la france, est ce quelqu'un connait un garage qui peux faire ca???


Admin: Google translation:

I'm also currently having this problem.
A 2015 C7 Stingray with 107,000 km.
After an engine/transmission reprogramming and oil change at LSX Calibration, after 700 km, an engine knocking noise appears.
I'm convinced it's a hydraulic lifter. The knocking is heard mainly under load between 1500 and 2000 rpm at 30-40 km/h, and then nothing.
At idle, even when accelerating to 2000 rpm, the knocking is audible.
I tried with a long screwdriver by ear, and the result is obvious. A screwdriver on the left rocker cover clearly knocks, on the right, nothing, and on the block, on the right, nothing, and on the left, you can hear it slightly, but it's probably the resonance of the left lifters.

Could this be caused by an oil level that's too high, 5 mm above the maximum?

How can a hydraulic lifter damage a piston?

I'm in the southwest of France. Does anyone know a garage that can do this?

 

Yep, sorry to say, that sounds like a collapsed or partially collapsed lifter. Probably cylinder number 7. Have to pull off the head(s) and replace the lifters. Sucks. And with over 100k miles, you're probably better off to pull the engine and do a complete rebuild. There's a lot of carbon build up and some piston and bearing wear in 100k miles... Or, if you can in France, have GM install a new factory engine. It costs around $14k here in the states.

Mine started tapping around 116k miles along with a leak at the head gasket. Left side like yours. I had a new factory engine installed, replaced the clutch, flywheel, etc, transmission service, rear diff service, and a new A/C compressor. Cost me $17k. But, I got a 100,000mi/3 year GM warranty on the new engine so there is that... The cost was painful but my car, now with 120k miles on it, feels like brand new!

But what's different now is that I'm changing the oil every 3k miles! No longer than that. I'm using Mobil Supercar 0W-40 too. Sounds wasteful but I think what happens is any crud in the oil can potentially build up and block the oil from pressurizing the DFM type lifters, causing them to 'collapse'.

I wouldn't recommend driving it at all now. It could cause catastrophic damage to a piston, etc. Then rebuild/replace is your only option. And GM will want your engine as a core or you'll have to add $3k more to the factory replacement.

Best of luck...

 

la mienne a 107000kms doncje ne vais pas changer le bloc, il est a peine rodé, en esperant que le piston n'est pas ete touché

 

bonjour

voila je viens d'avoir le verdict de mon clac clac.
j'étais persuadé que c'était les poussoirs hydrauliques et bien non, une bielle dans le sac.
je dégouté de la caisse, jai la poisse.
Apparement c'est un problème connu chez nous, mauvaise lubrification au niveau d'une .

ma c7 est actuellement chez odyssey performance à toulouse et m'annonce un moteur neuf a 35000e + mo....... des fous
je suis en train de voir sur Paris, chez speed shop ou parts+

avez vous des conseils???

 

Wow, over $40,000 for a new engine?!! That's crazy! You should search all over Europe for a better price.
Or try to get one from the US and have it shipped to you. That would likely run around $20K for new and maybe $11-12K for used I would think. Try contacting these guys and tell them your story (in English if you can): Importapart – Call us! (314) 502-3104

I would say you could rebuild it yourself but a bad connecting rod likely means having some block damage, making the engine beyond rebuilding.
Sadly, with that mileage, you may have to sell it for scrap. Or you could part it out - tranny, rear diff, seats, roof, etc, etc. Merde...