7.0

 

Thanks. I was thinking it was 6.

 

a non z51 does not take 9.3 - it takes 7 - do you have a owner's manual?

page 12-2

 

That's the old manual page. The new page (shown below) still correctly lists 7 quarts (w/o z51) but has the corrected value of 9.8 q for z51.

 

OPBB, please check your Owners Manual. The correct amount of oil for a non-Z51 when you change it and the filter is 7 quarts.

 

Thank guys, I wasn't sure if it was 6 or 7 quarts

 

And don't put all 7 in at first. Put 6 and a 1/4 or 6 and a 1/2 in, and then add more slowly after properly checking the oil level. The important reason for this is that maybe not all 7 fully drained out when changing the old oil out.

 

I drained 5.5 quarts out including the swill in the filter (base C7). Added 6 quarts with AC Delco 64 filter, the oil at the half point on my stick......and I'm still sucking oil into the catch can.

 

I need a little help here. I'm reading threads on catch cans and separator and I'm wondering why I'd need these in a 70k plus vehicle. And if I need them, why doesn't gm put them in the car from the get go. I'm neither a "gear head" or "buff head" (a new term for me) I've never had a true high performance vehicle before but in about 3 weeks I'll have a z51 in my garage. So should I be ordering a catch can and separator along with my mud flaps and curb alert? And if I should but don't, what sort of risk am I taking? Thanks in advance

 

Oh boy, here we go.

The best analogy I can give to you is some people eat certain foods, but others will not eat it because they are concerned for long-term health benefits. Still others eat whatever they want and don't give it a second thought.

There is no way in the world to get people to agree on what foods should not be consumed. Forget about it. You can never get one clear answer on that.

Will oil mist in the air intake at the rate of what is being caught presently by catch cans be bad for your engine? Some will say yes, some will say no. Decide for yourself what you want to do.

 

Oh boy, here we go.

The best analogy I can give to you is some people eat certain foods, but others will not eat it because they are concerned for long-term health benefits. Others eat whatever they want and don't give it a second thought.

There is no way in the world to get people to agree on what foods should not be consumed. Forget about it. You can never get one clear answer on that.

Will oil mist in the air intake at the rate of what is being caught presently by catch cans be bad for your engine? Some will say yes, some will say no. Decide for yourself what you want to do.

Thanks. Based on your analogy I'll be leaving it the way gm engineers designed it (and hope I don't regret it in a few years). Out of curiosity, do you have either or both?

 

Organic vs Genetically modified! lol. I'll go with the organic please. its 300$ just add it.

 

This is such a strange question to ask. But I have the same question. So I searched the forum: So many different responses to the same question for the same car and engine type. So I took it to Chevy, had them change the oil, and they said that they put in 10 quarts. I got the $100 invoice for the change and it says 10 quarts on the invoice. So I guess I am going with 10 quarts. But they said to make sure I pull BOTH drain plugs (not just the one up front) and that I allow it about 20 minutes to drain. Then they said to put in the new oil slowly, allowing in 10 minutes to drain the fill tank before measuring it. They said to heat the engine up, turn the car off, come back in 5-7 minutes, and then measure the oil level with the dipstick. Then add only what is needed to fill it up to, but not over, the fill line.
They said to let the oil drain for at least 5 minutes after I take off the oil filter also.

Maybe this level of waiting is over-kill. I am not sure, but I am going to follow these recommendations to the letter in my Z51.
Oh, and I see the super-charger has to have its own oil change as well, but not nearly as often as the engine oil.

Does this sound right to the forum dudes and dudettes?

Nick

 

Hi Nick,

No, it does not sound right for your Z51.

The first thing is that 10 quarts is too much.

The second thing is that for your dry sump, less oil is better than too much oil. The whole point of the tank on the dry sump is to keep oil available to pick up even in hard cornering. So, even if you are low of oil with the dry sump, you will be able to pick up oil in the tank.

Why is it such a big deal to NEVER overfill the tank? An overfill condition can result in oil going from the tank to the air intake. That can cause a whole mess of issues from a soaked air box and filter, leaking out all over the place, could coat the MAF sensor if it goes that far, and, heaven forbid, if enough of the oil ever got down past your intake valves into your cylinder, well, fluid is essentially incompressible... Bye bye engine...

This brings me to point #3: leave your oil closer to the bottom of the hash marks than the top of the hash marks. It is safer that way.

As for how to check the oil, do what is indicated by GM: make sure the oil is hot (hotter than the indicated temperature - I make sure it is even hotter than the minimum required temperature), turn the car off, and wait five minutes to check it. If you wait too long, the reading will be too low, and you might overfill it (which is absolutely what you want to avoid).

There are a ton of threads here on the forum for this.

During the pre-delivery inspection on my car, I found that the oil was overfilled from the factory (slightly over the top of the hash marks). I made the PDI guy suction enough out that I was below the middle of the hash marks. He said, "I would rather have it too high than too low." I said, "No, it absolutely will not be that way. Take more out, and don't stop until I say it is okay." He, of course, complied.

 

Maybe stating the obvious here, but take the car for a good run around the block to get the oil nice & hot before draining it. Hot oil flows better & removes more crud that might settle out in cooler oil.
Personally, I just drive up onto my ramps on a downward facing driveway. It's really not necessary, but it levels the car out.
Loosen the oil fill cap as it will allow the oil to drain faster when the drain bolts are removed. When loosening the drain bolts, keep pressure on the bolts while loosening (it prevents oil from getting on your hands ).
When all the oil has stopped draining or is just a very slow drip, replace the drain bolts & torque to spec. Lightly oil the O ring on the new filter & hand tighten.
I added 9 Qts of oil initially, started the car & checked for leaks. I then took the car for a short drive & after parking up checked the level after 5 mins.
I ended up having to add 9.4 Qts total, which keeps my oil level right in the middle of the hatch marks. Have put on 1500 miles since the break in change & haven't seen any oil consumption.
Hope this helps, all the best.

 

Here is just one thread of many on the forum on an overfilled condition: http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/stingray-corvette-problems-issues/4291-woke-up-oil-leak.html.

Note how the incompetent dealership employees that he was dealing with just kept overfilling it each time the car was taken back. Of course, most dealerships will have technicians who are smarter than those guys he was dealing with.

 

Hey Nick, you mentioned changing the oil in the supercharger. No offense but if you have a Z51, you do not have a supercharged engine. (Only in the Z06)

 

nor do you have oil in it...LOL

 

Nick, welcome aboard. What Rodney posted is 100% correct, if you have the ability to change your oil do it and it will leave you with a peace of mind.

SF
Rick