Can't Pass Emissions Test in Texas

4121 Views 20 Replies 16 Participants Last post by Joyce’s Vette, 26 d ago

bumparker

Discussion Starter · Apr 4, 2018

2014 Z-51 Auto with about 9200 miles. Here's how the issue started: In December 2017 the battery gave up the ghost so I replaced with a good AGM battery recommended in this forum. My Texas inspection was due end of January 2018, due to the winter weather I did not drive the car much between the battery replacement and when I took to the inspection shop in late Jan. Inspection shows N/A for the sensors and won't pass, the shop tells me to drive about 100 miles and come back. So I come back a week later after 100 miles and everything still shows N/A. Now I'm technically illegal because the inspection sticker is expired, I drive another month (100+ more miles) and try again....no luck as everything still shows N/A. So instead of continuing to pay inspection fees I buy a code reader with a inspection ready feature. I have now driven the car about 500 miles since the first inspection and the reader still shows all the sensors as N/A.

I need to take the car into the dealer for a airbag recall anyway and I guess I can throw this issue to the dealer to solve. I've read other people having similar issues after a battery disconnect but I've never seen a car take so long to acquire enough information to be ready for inspection. I'm afraid the dealer is just going to tell me I have to drive it more.

Anybody faced this issue? If so how did you get it resolved?

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

rdslon01

· #2 · Apr 4, 2018

That isn't a surprise at all.

Let me see if I can find an old thread on here for you. The basic point is that you could drive it for six months and never get all of the tests to run because you are continuing to drive it the same way. You have to drive it in different ways, and then you can get all of the tests to run in a very short distance and period of time.

Again, let me see if I can dig up those threads.

21017

· #3 · Apr 4, 2018

Good information to know Rodney since I will probably be changing mine our next year.

mdauwald

· #4 · Apr 4, 2018

You aren't fulfilling the entire GM drive cycle. Each manufacturer OBDII cycle is different.

General Motors Driving Cycle

A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
•Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2.Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3.Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4.Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5.Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6.Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7.Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8.Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

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Reactions: 5

rdslon01

· #5 · Apr 4, 2018

Here are some threads for you.

Start with posts #6 and #7 here: http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum...705-stingray-smog-requirements.html#post25742. That should give you enough background. There are also links to follow there.

Here is a link to a pdf which you can download.

If you still have more questions, then you can check out the following threads. Be sure to differentiate between the posts which provide accurate information from those which do not.

http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/general-discussion/50145-emission-s-inspection-failure.html

http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/general-discussion/52274-emissions-fail.html

http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/general-discussion/10704-won-t-pass-smog.html

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Reactions: 4

elegant

· #6 · Apr 4, 2018

Very helpful and very specific information mdauwald!

Thank you!

Reactions: 1

jsvette

· #7 · Apr 4, 2018

Fireeagle said:
Good information to know Rodney since I will probably be changing mine our next year.

You should not have any issues if you complete the battery change out in a reasonable time (like 20 to 30 minutes, and you don't need to have any temporary battery power applied during the change) and then drive your C7 afterwards.

Reactions: 1

21017

· #8 · Apr 4, 2018

Thanks Jeff. It certainly won't take that long. Good to know.

Reactions: 1

Milliwatt Rob

· #9 · Apr 4, 2018

I like the acceleration at 3/4 throttle part of the Driving Cycle. If I ever get pulled over for overenthusiastic driving, I can say I was resetting my emission controls. :subdued:

Seriously, can the OP's problem be avoided by connecting a 12 volt source to the always live power port in the trunk? I realize that extra care would have to be afforded the battery cables, as they would be "live" with voltage.

jsvette

· #10 · Apr 4, 2018

Milliwatt Rob said:
I like the acceleration at 3/4 throttle part of the Driving Cycle. If I ever get pulled over for overenthusiastic driving, I can say I was resetting my emission controls. :subdued:

Seriously, can the OP's problem be avoided by connecting a 12 volt source to the always live power port in the trunk? I realize that extra care would have to be afforded the battery cables, as they would be "live" with voltage.

There really isn't any need for connecting a 12 volt external source during a battery change out on our C7s unless you are removing the battery, driving it in another vehicle to exchange at a location some distance away, and then not putting the new replacement battery in when you get back. The most important factor is to drive the C7 after the replacement is in for a reasonable drive on the highway to ensure the new battery is at full charge (or to put a CTEK or similar maintainer on after changing the battery).

Reactions: 2

Fleet

· #11 · Apr 4, 2018

A good reason to eliminate the "Inspection Drill". The car manufacture warrantees the car to be in spec. for 10 years; that should be enough. The liability is with them unless the car has been modified. Florida eliminated inspections over a decade ago. I see no ill effect of the decision other then more disposable cash in my pocket, if you can call that an ill effect.

Reactions: 2

Liner Boy

· #12 · Apr 4, 2018

I would take it to the dealer for the airbag recall and ask them to do the inspection. My guess is when you pick it up you will have the certificate so you can renew your registration.

Reactions: 3

dmhines

· #13 · Apr 4, 2018

Have you owned this car since new? You sure there is not an aftermarket tune loaded ?

Reactions: 1

Boomer

· #14 · Apr 4, 2018

Fleet said:
A good reason to eliminate the "Inspection Drill". The car manufacture warrantees the car to be in spec. for 10 years; that should be enough. The liability is with them unless the car has been modified.

Gotta be some "inspection" to assure they ain't cheating. "Inspection Drill" sounds like a waste. Do like the folks that caught VW. University research. Targeted "inspections".

Boomer

· #15 · Apr 5, 2018

bumparker said:
I need to take the car into the dealer for a airbag recall anyway and I guess I can throw this issue to the dealer to solve.

Let us know how its solved.

ricardocabesa

· #16 · Apr 5, 2018

Fleet said:
A good reason to eliminate the "Inspection Drill". The car manufacture warrantees the car to be in spec. for 10 years; that should be enough. The liability is with them unless the car has been modified. Florida eliminated inspections over a decade ago. I see no ill effect of the decision other then more disposable cash in my pocket, if you can call that an ill effect.

Closer to 40 years ago IIRC.

Reactions: 1

bumparker

Discussion Starter · #17 · Apr 5, 2018

I've owned the car since new. I'll let you know how it gets resolved by the dealer. I'll might give the drive cycle another try first.

Busa Dave

· #18 · Apr 5, 2018

This is also an issue for those that have significant engine work done and do not run cats. It pays to go to people who know how to rewrite the tuning/programming so this is not an issue when they hook up the machine for the inspection.

Reactions: 1

Jerry U

· #19 · Apr 5, 2018

mdauwald said:
You aren't fulfilling the entire GM drive cycle. Each manufacturer OBDII cycle is different.

General Motors Driving Cycle

A complete driving cycle should perform diagnostics on all systems. A complete driving cycle can be done in under fifteen minutes.

To perform an OBDII Driving cycle do the following:
•Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

2.Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim.

3.Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed.

4.Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

5.Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed.

6.Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3.

7.Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst.

8.Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Excellent detailed info! With reasons.

Have not seen that posted before. Good info for daughter and family in CA.

SgtMajUSMC(Retired)

· #20 · Apr 5, 2018

I was reading a bit yesterday about folks in CA buying brand new cars from out of state and having all sorts of nightmares with required CA smog inspection. Appears there is some waiver process.

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