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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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I have just received the 3000 grit velvet pad and am going to try that as well.
Definitely keep us up to date Glen :D
 

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Update - the 3000 car pro velvet pad did not make a dent in the OP, glossy as hell, but still peeled, moving to the denim pad later this month....stay tuned...
 

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Here are a few questions I 've wondered about "OP" correction; How much room (in microns) do you have to work with before you have burned through your cars clear coat? Additionally, how do you know when you have gone as far as is safe in the pursuit of this remedy? It does not seem to me there is much clear coat to work with and once you have broken through it you have created a "world of hurt" for yourself.
 

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I still think the only way you are going to make a dent in the OP will involve removing the clear from the high spots, leaving a lot of the surface unprotected. The clear is typically 1.5 to 2 mills thick. I would think the difference between the peaks and valleys in the OP are more than that, I could be wrong.
 

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Here are a few questions I 've wondered about "OP" correction; How much room (in microns) do you have to work with before you have burned through your cars clear coat? Additionally, how do you know when you have gone as far as is safe in the pursuit of this remedy? It does not seem to me there is much clear coat to work with and once you have broken through it you have created a "world of hurt" for yourself.
understandable, but not the case...you have plenty of clear coat...I asked the same questions to pro detailers many years ago and in the simplest terms they said "you have plenty of clear coat for a few strong polishes and many years of std polishing"....the true answer is to use a paint thickness gauge, then you know where you stand....I'm not concerned at all in this stage, Ive done it many times before on new cars:

Correcting orangepeel in new paint - Autopia Forums - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum
 

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understandable, but not the case...you have plenty of clear coat...I asked the same questions to pro detailers many years ago and in the simplest terms they said "you have plenty of clear coat for a few strong polishes and many years of std polishing"....the true answer is to use a paint thickness gauge, then you know where you stand....I'm not concerned at all in this stage, Ive done it many times before on new cars:

Correcting orangepeel in new paint - Autopia Forums - Auto Detailing & Car Care Discussion Forum
Glen, I'll have to disagree with you on this one, regardless what the "Pro's" say. If the OP is part of the base coat then there's absolutely no way you can eliminate it without removing the clear coat from the high spots. You have to get through the clear to get to the base to level the base. OTOH, if the OP is ONLY in the clear coat then sure, you can polish it flat and still have enough for protection. What I don't know is whether the OP is purely a function of the clear coat. Also, the paint is applied in a wet process meaning the clear is applied to the base while the base is still wet. That would indicate some level of chemical mixing between the two and is probably one of the reason for the OP. I think, unless you are willing to wet sand down to the base and respray with clear, that OP is something you just need to learn to live with on a modern, mass produced car finish.
 

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It's in the clear coat...trust me....I'll show you in a few weeks.....
Then that's great and I would agree, you have plenty to keep it protected and still make a sizable dent in the OP.
 

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Because one person has wetsanded and polished with mirror results on the CF forum and my body shop has done one. I know wet sanding will work, just hoping to shortcut with the denim pad and a bit more even results. I really don't want to wetsand, it is a laborious process....
 

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We again agree again to disagree ....
if you are not careful and don't know what you're doing, yes, you can screw this up. But if you use 3000 grit/2000 grit or the pads that are talked about in the original Op, and you know what you're doing, you definitely can get the surface much better than they give it to you. You are not resigned to "live with it".
 

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Just be careful to not get anything under the sandpaper or pad and don't sand the edges, creases, or body lines.
 

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I can verify that the CarPro Orange Peel reducing pads can certainly help, but their results won't always be as dramatic as the pics linked. I tried them on a C7 and the results were less than exciting. Doesn't mean they can't work: keep in mind that if you're willing to spend enough time, there are a lot of options. In my case, I had expectations in which the CarPro pads wouldn't allow me to fulfill.
 

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Glen, I'll have to disagree with you on this one, regardless what the "Pro's" say. If the OP is part of the base coat then there's absolutely no way you can eliminate it without removing the clear coat from the high spots. You have to get through the clear to get to the base to level the base. OTOH, if the OP is ONLY in the clear coat then sure, you can polish it flat and still have enough for protection. What I don't know is whether the OP is purely a function of the clear coat. Also, the paint is applied in a wet process meaning the clear is applied to the base while the base is still wet. That would indicate some level of chemical mixing between the two and is probably one of the reason for the OP. I think, unless you are willing to wet sand down to the base and respray with clear, that OP is something you just need to learn to live with on a modern, mass produced car finish.
On factory paint, you're not going to have an issue with the low points of the clear being below the high points of the base. It doesn't work that way. Sure base coat will have texture to it, but that will be found below the clear. I've not seen factory base coat exposed because someone removed orange peel. That would be a factor of either someone being far too aggressive and cutting through too much of the clear(obviously) or there was a factory issue with far too thinly coated clear in which case there would be an issue down the road anyways.
 

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On factory paint, you're not going to have an issue with the low points of the clear being below the high points of the base. It doesn't work that way. Sure base coat will have texture to it, but that will be found below the clear. I've not seen factory base coat exposed because someone removed orange peel. That would be a factor of either someone being far too aggressive and cutting through too much of the clear(obviously) or there was a factory issue with far too thinly coated clear in which case there would be an issue down the road anyways.
That seems counter intuitive when clear thickness is measured in microns but I'm not a professional painter so I have no reason to argue. Good to know, thanks.
 

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On factory paint, you're not going to have an issue with the low points of the clear being below the high points of the base. It doesn't work that way. Sure base coat will have texture to it, but that will be found below the clear.
If the low points of the clear are not below the high points of the base, then the base has to be perfect.
 

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If the low points of the clear are not below the high points of the base, then the base has to be perfect.
Kind of what I was getting at but hey, I'm just a lowly engineer, not a painter or detailer.
 

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I've wet sanded my last corvette to take the OP out, the issue is the edges this is where the clear is the thinnest. So we would never wet sand any edges.
 
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