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Purchased a new GM battery tender for my 2014 C-7. This plugs into a 12 volt power point inside the trunk on the right hand side. If the trunk is left open to allow the battery tender to be plugged in, the trunk lights will remain on. How else could the tender be plugged in to avoid this problem?
 

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The lights are timed to go out, but you can close the hatch on the cord without harming the seal. You can also use your charger using access points under the hood. I can grab a link showing those if you need it. They require alligator clips though.
 

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Purchased a new GM battery tender for my 2014 C-7. This plugs into a 12 volt power point inside the trunk on the right hand side. If the trunk is left open to allow the battery tender to be plugged in, the trunk lights will remain on. How else could the tender be plugged in to avoid this problem?
First, welcome to our forum rcwillard! You can safely close the trunk lid on the flat wire from the accessory plug since the trunk has the weather strip that it closes on. I have been doing this with RedHot since new (6k+ miles) with no issues as has many others on our forum. The best way to do that is to leave the driver (or passenger) door open while you gently close the trunk on the tender flat cord, than go and close the door. All lights will be off and your charger will work perfectly. If you have any related questions feel free to post or PM me. :cool:
 

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I have the factory charger and I close the trunk on the cord--not a problem. cutnout aka Charlie
 

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Hooked up my CTEK 3300 and have it going into the hatch, with it closed. I know you all say it's OK, and I believe you, but it still makes me cringe.
 

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Hooked up my CTEK 3300 and have it going into the hatch, with it closed. I know you all say it's OK, and I believe you, but it still makes me cringe.
I don't like the idea of pinching a wire in a gasketed lid. Was always told it would damage the gasket with time. However, I seem to remember seeing flat ribbon type cables somewhere specifically designed for that purpose. Not sure where, but they exist I am sure.
 

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What is the proper way to plug and unplug the charger? I recall reading someplace that you should plug the charger plug into the car first then into the wall outlet, and reverse when unplugging. Unplug from the wall then the car.

Is this correct?
 

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Yes, for any battery charging device, the recommended procedure for connecting is to make the DC connection first, then plug in the charger to the AC power source. For disconnecting, you first unplug the charger from the AC power source, then disconnect the DC cables.
 

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It makes no difference the order you plug or unplug the tenders. I have 5 battery tenders across 2 garages, they stay plugged into AC all the time and get plugged into the bikes and cars as needed. Been doing it this way well over 15 years, never had a problem.

These are 1.5 amp chargers that don't go active until they sense the battery and close the circuit, these aren't your $20 battery chargers from the 70's.
 

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I don't like the idea of pinching a wire in a gasketed lid. Was always told it would damage the gasket with time. However, I seem to remember seeing flat ribbon type cables somewhere specifically designed for that purpose. Not sure where, but they exist I am sure.
The CTEK 3300 wire is fairly flat, not like a ribbon wire but more like a smaller version of household 18 gauge lamp cord. Once you remove the cord the seal returns to its original shape.
 

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What is the proper way to plug and unplug the charger? I recall reading someplace that you should plug the charger plug into the car first then into the wall outlet, and reverse when unplugging. Unplug from the wall then the car.

Is this correct?
If you are using the CTEK 3300 it has its own on off button, so when you connect it just have it in the off position and then once plugged in to your Stingray, cycle it on.
 

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From the CTEK 3300 manual


Download CTEK MULTI US 3300 User Manual


Position AC and DC cords to reduce risk of damage by hood, door or moving
engine part.
???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
persons.
Check polarity of battery posts. POSITIVE (POS, P, +) battery post usually has
larger diameter than NEGATIVE (NEG, N, -) post.
Determine which post of battery is grounded (connected) to the chassis. If negative
post is grounded to the chassis (as in most vehicles) see (e). If positive post is
grounded to the chassis, see (f).
For Negative-grounded vehicle, connect POSTIVE (RED) clip from battery charger
to POSITIVE (POS, P, +) ungrounded post of battery. Connect NEGATIVE
(BLACK) clip to vehicle chassis or engine block away from battery. Do not connect
clip to carburetor, fuel lines, or sheet-metal body parts. Connect to a heavy gage
metal part of the frame or engine block.
Charger connection.
Connect positive charger clip (red) to positive battery terminal.
Connect negative charger clip (black) to a good metal engine ground away from
the battery. Do no connect clip to fuel lines or sheet-metal body parts.
Connect the AC cord to the socket. The red alarm indication light will indicate
a battery which is connected to reverse polarity.
For Positive grounded vehicle, connect NEGATIVE (BLACK) clip from battery
charger to NEGATIVE (NEG, N, –) ungrounded post of battery. Connect POSITIVE
(RED) clip to vehicle chassis or engine block away from battery. Do not connect
clip to carburetor, fuel lines, or sheet-metal body parts. Connect to a heavy gage
metal part of the frame or engine block.
Charger connection.
Connect negative charger clip (black) to negative battery terminal.
Connect positive charger clip (red) to a good metal engine ground away from the
battery. Do no connect clip to fuel lines or sheet-metal body parts.
Connect the AC cord to the socket. The red alarm indication light will indicate
a battery which is connected to reverse polarity.
When disconnecting charger, turn switches to off, disconnect AC cord, remove clip
from vehicle chassis, and then remove clip from battery terminal.
See operating instructions for length of charge information.
 

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The unit that comes from GM uses a cigarette lighter plug that will engage ground before it gets to the positive center contact and it's impossible to reverse polarity. Even if you did somehow short the wires a CTEK or Battery Tender won't provide load to the output until they sense proper polarity so it's impossible to generate a spark or damage the unit.

Sure, if you are using banana clips on an open battery terminal it's always a good idea to not have the charger energized but for plugging into the 12v outlet in the trunk it really doesn't matter whether the tender is turned on or not.
 

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Are we an obsessive group or what? Plug the thing into the wall outlet and the cig lighter outlet in the trunk in whatever order you choose and be done with it. (For reasons that don't really matter in this case, I have a habit of connecting to the battery first, and then the wall outlet.)
 

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It makes no difference the order you plug or unplug the tenders. I have 5 battery tenders across 2 garages, they stay plugged into AC all the time and get plugged into the bikes and cars as needed. Been doing it this way well over 15 years, never had a problem.

These are 1.5 amp chargers that don't go active until they sense the battery and close the circuit, these aren't your $20 battery chargers from the 70's.
My Schumacher unit has this feature, and it cost about $25.
 

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When I began using my charger I was closing the hatch on it. After about a month I stopped that practice didn't really like the thought of compressing the cord over and over again. Now I just rest the hatch on the cord with little or no pressure. The hatch compartment light stays on for the timed duration then goes out. I just feel more comfortable doing it this way. Don't need to be the first one to have a short in the wires somehow then a fire.
 

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When I began using my charger I was closing the hatch on it. After about a month I stopped that practice didn't really like the thought of compressing the cord over and over again. Now I just rest the hatch on the cord with little or no pressure. The hatch compartment light stays on for the timed duration then goes out. I just feel more comfortable doing it this way. Don't need to be the first one to have a short in the wires somehow then a fire.
good suggestion, though I have been closing trunks or doors on my CTEK units for more than a decade with no impact on the respective cord or vehicles.
 

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I'll be hooking my up when I put the vette away for the winter.
 

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Purchased a new GM battery tender for my 2014 C-7. This plugs into a 12 volt power point inside the trunk on the right hand side. If the trunk is left open to allow the battery tender to be plugged in, the trunk lights will remain on. How else could the tender be plugged in to avoid this problem?
Over time the wiring cable can mar the clearcoat and seen with the right light angle

Really it is a easy task and when done connection is from the outside and simply to use
Can be put where ever outside of car and just bend over to plug cable on/off

Has been used like this for my C5 for good 8 plus years and much better then the countless connections to inside the car.

View attachment 11236
 
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