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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
You might have already noticed... but I LOVE wheels. :) I have a set in the works that just came out and they're from a place that mostly does exotics. In my search, I've collected as many pics as possible as well as some renderings too. I thought I'd share what I have with you guys in the event it might help anyone looking. Feel free to add whatever you find as well! Anyone looking for wheels, I'll do whatever I can to help. Most can do a x10 front and a x12 rear but it's pushing it, x9.5 and x11.5 are "safer" really to ensure no rub because all tires are not true to their numbers. 305 Michelin Supersports are wider than Michelin PS2s which are wider than Bridgestons for example.

One of my FAVORITES! Forgeline






















COR on a weapon X motorsports sponsorted C7 that we'll be doing another project on next month:




great profile for the caliper clearance:






CCW Classic rendering which is a pretty cool throw back:


ADV1 pics and renderings:






Vossen renderings:





BBS rendering:


Forged 360:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Omg this is the best thread ever! Lol. Good idea Ben thx a lot for all the photos and to those that follow!
no problem, wheels always drastically change a look of a car IMO... a good set and your car looks even more exotic... a bad set and well... you know, you end up immortalized in internet posts lol

beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but a little help never hurts :)

 

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I'm really a fan of these Forgeline's:



I think their integrate of the spokes with the lug nut pockets is perfect. The other wheels with circular center hubs and spoke designs that aren't symetric with the lug nuts look "one size fits all" which isn't what I want with a $6000+ set of wheels.

The BBS renderings are sweet too, I'm a HUGE BBS fan from way back.

Thanks for the thread!
 
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Great thread.
I've read that anything over a 305 and you have to remove the rear brake duct, is that true? I love the blue car with the 375 rear tires but I don't like the poke. I want as wide as I can get on 21 but stay flush or inside the fenders
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I believe you can do a x11 or x11.5 w/o removing the duct, I'll confirm. If you don't track the car, the duct won't matter much anyway. Yes, the x12s I've seen with the 375 wanna be tires haven't impressed me yet because they stick out too much and that 375 is really a 335 roughly. If you're going to make up a tire, why not just call it a 400? lol Forgeline is sponsoring the car for the drag strip and M&H sponsored the car with a 325 going on it. My street wheels are a 21" and I have them being spec'ed for a 325 as well. The Forgelines above are on a x11" rim with a 315 for reference.
 

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Here are a couple shots of our C7. The rear fitment in these pictures has since changed, as we had the wheels widened and the back-pad shaved to tuck the wheel/tire in more. Specs are as follows:

Wheels
360 Forged SL-10C
20x11.5 Rear | 19x9 Front

Tires
Toyo Proxes R888
315/30/20 Rear | 265/35/19 Front

The car is lowered on modified factory bolts.






Current rear fitment with corrected wheels

 

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Agree, looks awesome. I am a tire novice. What is the 11.5 number and the 9 number. Back in the day the width was the 315 or 335 etc. How do these numbers compare to what come stock with the Z51 package. Thanks for the help.
 

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Agree, looks awesome. I am a tire novice. What is the 11.5 number and the 9 number. Back in the day the width was the 315 or 335 etc. How do these numbers compare to what come stock with the Z51 package. Thanks for the help.
Those numbers are for the width of the wheel itself. Rears are 20" diameter x 11.5" width, and same for the 19x9 on the fronts. The tires are 315 wide on the rear, 265 front.

The factory Z51 is a 20x10 Rear | 19x8.5 Front 285/30/20 R | 245/35/19 F
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
While you can squeeze a wider tire on a factory rim, it really depends on how you're going to drive the car as to it's affects. For straight line acceleration like around town stuff and the drag strip, it's OK and you can probably go up to a 305 rather easily as long as you keep the OD of the tire approx 27". A wheel spacer on these cars will help give you additional clearance on the inside as well if you choose to do something like this. I have the properly calculated spacers to push the wheels out slightly more to the fender for a little wider stance. These cars were setup for handling on the narrower tire though, so if you the twisties are your thing, I'd really consider adding a wider rim to keep your tires square.

Tire sizes: While manufacturers post these numbers and you should always verify as they don't often stay true to form, you can also calculate them to get a decent idea of what to look for. For example, a 305/30r20 means you should have a 305mm wide tire. To get the OD, you would use the second number and treat it as a percentage of the first. So, 305 multiplied by .30 means the sidewall would be 91.5mm. You have to remember, you have two double that sidewall as you'd cross the tire side wall twice if starting with a tape measure from one side of the wheel to the other. So, 91.5*2=183mm of tire sidewall. You can convert these mm back to inches by dividing it by 25.4 as 1"=25.4mm, so this leaves you with 7.205" of tire sidewall. Add this to your 20" rim and you should have approx a 27.2" OD tire. This probably sounds much more complicated than it is, but just remember, the first is tire width in mm, the second is the percentage you need to double, then you just have to convert it to inches and use the last number which is in inches to add to that.
 

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While you can squeeze a wider tire on a factory rim, it really depends on how you're going to drive the car as to it's affects. For straight line acceleration like around town stuff and the drag strip, it's OK and you can probably go up to a 305 rather easily as long as you keep the OD of the tire approx 27". A wheel spacer on these cars will help give you additional clearance on the inside as well if you choose to do something like this. I have the properly calculated spacers to push the wheels out slightly more to the fender for a little wider stance. These cars were setup for handling on the narrower tire though, so if you the twisties are your thing, I'd really consider adding a wider rim to keep your tires square.

Tire sizes: While manufacturers post these numbers and you should always verify as they don't often stay true to form, you can also calculate them to get a decent idea of what to look for. For example, a 305/30r20 means you should have a 305mm wide tire. To get the OD, you would use the second number and treat it as a percentage of the first. So, 305 multiplied by .30 means the sidewall would be 91.5mm. You have to remember, you have two double that sidewall as you'd cross the tire side wall twice if starting with a tape measure from one side of the wheel to the other. So, 91.5*2=183mm of tire sidewall. You can convert these mm back to inches by dividing it by 25.4 as 1"=25.4mm, so this leaves you with 7.205" of tire sidewall. Add this to your 20" rim and you should have approx a 27.2" OD tire. This probably sounds much more complicated than it is, but just remember, the first is tire width in mm, the second is the percentage you need to double, then you just have to convert it to inches and use the last number which is in inches to add to that.
This is all true, but the issue lies in the Z51 rim width..

This may be my years of wheel/tire sales prior to the performance world coming out, but manufacturer rim width is something to look into. All 305 or 315 tires require AT LEAST a 10.5" wide wheel at minimum. And there's quite a lot to be learned about a tire that is too small or too big for the rim and how it effects handling / tread wear / road noise etc.
 

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Great look but it's quite possible the ultimate grip and by reference lap times would not improve based on what you lose by going from the Pilot Sport's to the Toyo rubber...... For me (and I'm only talking about what is important to me, YMMV) if it doesn't make it faster it's not worth doing.
 
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