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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Thanks for the precise information, John! :)
 

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I was going to lower mine last weekend but my driveway is on an incline and there's a point where my car has just under an inch of clearance from the front splitter hitting the driveway (even coming in at nice angle) so for now I decided not to touch it - very disappointed cuz I really wanna drop her!
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
If lowering on stock bolts then no wheel alignment needed?

Is this the same procedure for the Z06 as well?
Same procedure...yes. If you adjust the ride height on the stock bolts, I recommend having the alignment checked. Some have needed an alignment and some have not.
 

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After I lowered mine, had it aligned. Tech said it definitely needed alignment (but he is as precise as I am) -- and he could not say that the need for that alignment was because of it being lowered some. At the factory, they only align within an "acceptable range, not to GM's actual recommended settings.

Of course, the more you lower, the greater the chance of it needing alignment, i.e., if you lower it all the way, I would always get an alignment. Jag said it excellently, that after lowering, some need an alignment, some do not, but with about $1,000 for front tires alone, a 4-wheel alignment is a cheap investment.
 

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After I lowered mine, had it aligned. Tech said it definitely needed alignment (but he is as precise as I am) -- and he could not say that the need for that alignment was because of it being lowered some. At the factory, they only align within an "acceptable range, not to GM's actual recommended settings.

Of course, the more you lower, the greater the chance of it needing alignment, i.e., if you lower it all the way, I would always get an alignment. Jag said it excellently, that after lowering, some need an alignment, some do not, but with about $1,000 for front tires alone, a 4-wheel alignment is a cheap investment.
Hey elegant,

Just dropped my car as much as it would go. Honestly don't notice much of a difference yet, since I haven't moved it to have it settle. So my question is how much should I drive it to have it settle before I go for an alignment? 4 wheel alignment I'm assuming? Thanks
 

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Driving it the the alignment shop should be enough to settle it.

I dropped mine all the way last year and didn't do an alignment. I found it amazing that I could take my hands off the wheel and the car would track straight as an arrow. I sent the car in for a track alignment, I'll see if it still drives as straight.
 

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First time reading this thread and thanks for the info. I may try it on mine this weekend. :)
 
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Did mine tonight. My car was pretty high from the factory, so I needed to get it down to lower the CG. Lowered it ~1/2 all the way around to get me in the ballpark. I'll be doing a track/autoX-friendly alignment, that will still give decent overall wear. I'll have it corner-weighted, to optimize handling, for my intended purposes.

A relatively easy way to equalize the measurements was to measure how 'tall' the bolts protrude from the base & made sure the were equal side-to-side--saves a lot of trial & error. Although, corner-weighting will throw the equal heights off slightly--aesthetics gives way to performance ;-)

Thx for the thread, jag
 
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I backed out the rear bolts all the way last night. That lowed the back 1/2 a inch. image.jpg . I can see out the back window on my convertable better now. image.jpg . I think the ride is better too. That's probably in my head!!! Thank Jeremy I had your pictures open when I was working on this. John
 
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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Glad it was helpful. :)
 

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Well today I finally got around to lowering my 2014 C7 Z51 using just the factory lowering bolts. Thanks a bunch for the excellent information in this post. it really helped a lot. This was a very easy mod to do. My front bolts are backed out 10 turns which is all the way out and my back bolts are turned out 5 turns which is also all of way out. The car looks great and appears to be sitting about 1" lower than before the mod. I drove the car for a bit and there appears to be no change in the handling. The car tracks perfectly straight. Tomorrow I'm taking it in for a alignment just to make sure that that is OK. I also installed a set of the Granatelli Bumper Savers for extra steep driveway protection. I did all of the adjusting with my wheels off. It made getting to the bolt heads much easier.

Cheers and Thanks again for the help.

Rich IMG_0543.JPG IMG_0544.JPG
 

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Agreed. It is so much more precise when you take the wheels off. By then looking straight down at the top of the adjustment bolt, marking it with a pen, you can then precisely turn it, and for lowering, counterclockwise, turn 540 degrees (1 1/2 turns) for a net lowering of 1/8" (per GM), and the reverse.
 

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Thank you JAG, this was very helpful! I left the wheels on and was able to get the the bolts easily, I used a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench which helped a great deal, I took the bolts all the way up, which should lower it all the way down. love this site and forums, you guys are the best! Thanks again!!
 

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Hello everyone I finally got my vette last Friday. I am trying to follow these procedures to lower my car on the stock bolts. I have one question, I am attempting to put the jack stand under the transverse composite leaf spring, my jack stand is 13" minimum clearance, do I need a different jack stand or can I jack the car up higher?

Thanks
 

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Hello everyone I finally got my vette last Friday. I am trying to follow these procedures to lower my car on the stock bolts. I have one question, I am attempting to put the jack stand under the transverse composite leaf spring, my jack stand is 13" minimum clearance, do I need a different jack stand or can I jack the car up higher?

Thanks
Congrats on getting your new C7! You did not indicate the lifting range on your existing jack. 13" clearance for the jack stand is in the normal range, and most hydraulic jacks should be able to lift your car high enough to get the stands inserted.
 
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