Bencher that's what I thought as well, but when I asked they said it's really pretty easy to lower and the majority of expense come from the alignment. Guess I'll find out once I can get it out of the garage and down to the dealer.@ C0-2016Z06. Your local Chevrolet dealership stated they would drop the car & perform a wheel alignment for $100. Sounds way cheap, for a dealer.
$100 sounds like enough to me. An alignment costs less. The ride height adjustment is straightforward.Bencher that's what I thought as well, but when I asked they said it's really pretty easy to lower and the majority of expense come from the alignment. Guess I'll find out once I can get it out of the garage and down to the dealer.
You need to use something to relieve the pressure on the springs. You can do the job on a lift, but you still need to provide the pressure relief on the springs so you can turn the lowering bolts.My apologies if this has been answered and I overlooked it in this thread. If you have access to a 4 post lift can the bolts be accessed easily? Just drive on turn bolts on all 4 corners counter clockwise and your done. No jacking needed.
I never took off the wheels. I turned all 4 bolts all the way counterclockwise, drove the car and that was it.After spending some time considering whether to do this myself or farm it out, I decided to take the plunge today. My objective was to bring the car down to the extent possible with the adjusting bolts and hopefully cure the factory left/right mismatch on the front (left was 1/4" lower). I was in no hurry, safety and a thorough job were the working goals as no one is keeping time on me and it's been quite a few years since I took a wrench to a car. I used a floor jack to raise the car (using a Reverse Logic puck) and a jackstand under the spring to support the car and relieve pressure from the spring. Below is a one wheel description of what I did; multiply by four for the whole job. Overall it took four hours, all very satisfying.
1. Chock the wheels on the end not being worked on (front/rear)
2. Break lug nuts loose (19mm) (but leave snug), insert puck, raise the corner of the car.
3. Remove wheel.
4. Position jackstand under the spring.
5. Lower jack so that the jackstand is supporting the weight.
6. Spray WD40 or other penetrating oil on adjusting bolt.
7. Back the bolt out all the way while counting turns. Each corner turned out 5 complete turns. I used a normal 10mm box-end wrench.
8. Clean brake calipers and back of wheel.
9. Reinstall wheel, torque lug nuts in three steps (50/75/100 lb. ft.).
Once complete, I drove it 20 miles and remeasured. Each corner came down by 1/2", so I still have the left/right mismatch at the front. Tomorrow I'll pull the left front and raise it 2.5 turns, that should get them as close to even as possible. I think it looks better, it drove the same, it doesn't pull while at steady speed or while braking.
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