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Awesome guide. Going to do this soon!!


Anyone try with stage 2 front splitter? Any problems bottoming out? I already have to go at a diagonal every lot I go in and out of with stock height. Hope I can get by cause the drop looks awesome!
 

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Stage 2 factory splitter on my lowered Z06:

Yes, every driveway apron and speed bump, and every elevation change needs to be scouted out in advance. For example, my local Chevron station, have to only go in and out one of its two driveways (not a problem), because not even close on the steeper one. And you know the 45 degree diagonal is most often necessary. If you have not yet seen the below thread, it might help, for every bit of lowering makes this harder. And yet, have over 8,000 miles and yet not an issue other than selecting in advance which slopes are achievable and which ones are now), i.e., no damage to the underside of my splitter nor anywhere else.

http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/stingray-how-s-guides/10758-how-navigating-sharp-dips-rises.html

Have however already seen other C7's with damaged splitters, some less protruding than stage 2's.
 

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John, how much did you lower your Z06? I'm thinking about lowering mine a little but not exactly sure how much I want to lower it.
 

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That is tough to answer, for mine, like many, was all screwed up to begin with, such as the driver's height, both front and rear was higher than the passenger side height (comparing front versus front and rear versus rear). First, and this is from over a one year ago memory, lowered the driver's rear 3/8", and then lowered the driver's front 5/16". Took measurements then and needed to lower my driver's rear 1/8". This got my car level side to side and every one of the C7's that I have measured, has not been correct height side to side, so please start there first. Of course after each lowering, one needs to drive the car for a few miles on not perfect roads, to let it settle. Did that, and then lowered the entire car approximately 1/4" more at all four corners. Then, immediately had the car four wheel aligned (and 8,000 miles later, my tire wear remains consistent across each tire, excellent at all four corners). While some say you do not need to realign your car after lowering it, with the price of our tires, and compounded by the fact that the more you lower it, the more you potentially affect the car's alignment (IMO).

With my stage 2 splitter, while I would prefer lowering the front a little more, that would make driving it impractical where I live.

Two suggestions if you are considering lowering it.

1) Per GM's specs, you need to rotate the lowering bolts 540 degrees to change the height 1/8".
2) Especially for the front where there are other things in the way, found it easiest in the long run, to not just follow every one of Jag's excellent suggestions in this thread, but to also remove my front wheels. Then I "blue pen marked" the top of the lowering bolt and was easily able to determine each full rotation of the lowering bolts. Without the wheels being removed and marking a line across the top of the adjusting bolt, it is very hard to note how far you are rotating/have rotated those bolts.

Lastly, and do not remember whether this is in this longish thread, you can also use your adjusting bolts to raise any corner of your car (same 1/8"= 540 degrees).
 

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Thanks John, I'll probably be taking it into the dealer to have it done since they said they lower and do a 4 wheel alignment for like $100.
Like the idea of a pre-lowering to make sure everything is sitting level, wouldn't have though of that. Also a short drive after the first adjustment to make sure all is settled in. So I'll definitely be doing that.
 

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Great info there John. Thanks for that. I'm contemplating changing my front splitter to a Stage 1 just so I can have the clearance to drop the C7 the lowest it will go on stock bolts. Have not decided yet.

@ C0-2016Z06. Your local Chevrolet dealership stated they would drop the car & perform a wheel alignment for $100. Sounds way cheap, for a dealer.
 

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went with the custom lowering bolts, bottom of front splitter is 4 inches off the ground; the back end is roughly 3/4" higher. I was told the only way to go lower is with the change in spindles which I am not going to do. I m fine with the look at 4 inches, much lower IMO would create issues.
 

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With a splitter just 4" off the pavement, when you are approaching the car, looks like it is even much closer than that even on smooth pavement. When I parked mine on the grass at two shows last summer (my clearance measurement is 4 1/2"), looked to many like the splitter was poised to cut the grass when I was leaving. Heard quite a few comments/questions, "are you able to drive with it that low?"

Over 8,000 miles and no damage to my splitter!
 

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@ C0-2016Z06. Your local Chevrolet dealership stated they would drop the car & perform a wheel alignment for $100. Sounds way cheap, for a dealer.
Bencher that's what I thought as well, but when I asked they said it's really pretty easy to lower and the majority of expense come from the alignment. Guess I'll find out once I can get it out of the garage and down to the dealer.
 

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Bencher that's what I thought as well, but when I asked they said it's really pretty easy to lower and the majority of expense come from the alignment. Guess I'll find out once I can get it out of the garage and down to the dealer.
$100 sounds like enough to me. An alignment costs less. The ride height adjustment is straightforward.
 

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Mine came pretty high from factory, tried lowering w/ stock bolts and made not much difference, then went aftermarket and it lowered enough but lowering bolts started squeaking and screeching, then I learned somewhere online how to modify the OEM bolts to lower even more, pretty easy. It just involves cutting off the lower portion of the rubber on stock bolts.

The OEM bolts’ pad is a steel-rubber “sandwich” construction, kind of like a bigmac in this case, where you we’ll see a plate-rubber-plate-rubber-plate, just cut off though the lower rubber and then grind/sand all four pads to about same height and also to flatten them, as it is hard cutting through rubber and get it straight and perpendicular to the bolt axis. That worked perfectly for me. You could also cut through the higher rubber part of the sandwich but not sure you will have enough compliance to allow the small but necessary lateral displacement (shear strain in rubber) it needs when spring deflects, which is why I think the aftermarket parts failed as they do not allow for that.

I did and alignment after that.
 

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My apologies if this has been answered and I overlooked it in this thread. If you have access to a 4 post lift can the bolts be accessed easily? Just drive on turn bolts on all 4 corners counter clockwise and your done. No jacking needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
My apologies if this has been answered and I overlooked it in this thread. If you have access to a 4 post lift can the bolts be accessed easily? Just drive on turn bolts on all 4 corners counter clockwise and your done. No jacking needed.
You need to use something to relieve the pressure on the springs. You can do the job on a lift, but you still need to provide the pressure relief on the springs so you can turn the lowering bolts.
 
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You need to use something to relieve the pressure on the springs. You can do the job on a lift, but you still need to provide the pressure relief on the springs so you can turn the lowering bolts.
Gotcha, tks...
 

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After spending some time considering whether to do this myself or farm it out, I decided to take the plunge today. My objective was to bring the car down to the extent possible with the adjusting bolts and hopefully cure the factory left/right mismatch on the front (left was 1/4" lower). I was in no hurry, safety and a thorough job were the working goals as no one is keeping time on me and it's been quite a few years since I took a wrench to a car. I used a floor jack to raise the car (using a Reverse Logic puck) and a jackstand under the spring to support the car and relieve pressure from the spring. Below is a one wheel description of what I did; multiply by four for the whole job. Overall it took four hours, all very satisfying.

1. Chock the wheels on the end not being worked on (front/rear)
2. Break lug nuts loose (19mm) (but leave snug), insert puck, raise the corner of the car.
3. Remove wheel.
4. Position jackstand under the spring.
5. Lower jack so that the jackstand is supporting the weight.
6. Spray WD40 or other penetrating oil on adjusting bolt.
7. Back the bolt out all the way while counting turns. Each corner turned out 5 complete turns. I used a normal 10mm box-end wrench.
8. Clean brake calipers and back of wheel.
9. Reinstall wheel, torque lug nuts in three steps (50/75/100 lb. ft.).

Once complete, I drove it 20 miles and remeasured. Each corner came down by 1/2", so I still have the left/right mismatch at the front. Tomorrow I'll pull the left front and raise it 2.5 turns, that should get them as close to even as possible. I think it looks better, it drove the same, it doesn't pull while at steady speed or while braking.

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Just a quick follow up. Because I was excited to start the project yesterday, I forgot to take "before" pictures. However, at today's car show, I was parked next to a nearly identical Z51 (other than his black wheels) and it makes for a good comparison. I shot a picture of his left front and my left front (this is after raising it 1/4" to equalize with the right front which wouldn't go down as much).

ImageUploadedByCorvette Stingray Forum1494738653.447493.jpg

ImageUploadedByCorvette Stingray Forum1494738681.421297.jpg
 

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After spending some time considering whether to do this myself or farm it out, I decided to take the plunge today. My objective was to bring the car down to the extent possible with the adjusting bolts and hopefully cure the factory left/right mismatch on the front (left was 1/4" lower). I was in no hurry, safety and a thorough job were the working goals as no one is keeping time on me and it's been quite a few years since I took a wrench to a car. I used a floor jack to raise the car (using a Reverse Logic puck) and a jackstand under the spring to support the car and relieve pressure from the spring. Below is a one wheel description of what I did; multiply by four for the whole job. Overall it took four hours, all very satisfying.

1. Chock the wheels on the end not being worked on (front/rear)
2. Break lug nuts loose (19mm) (but leave snug), insert puck, raise the corner of the car.
3. Remove wheel.
4. Position jackstand under the spring.
5. Lower jack so that the jackstand is supporting the weight.
6. Spray WD40 or other penetrating oil on adjusting bolt.
7. Back the bolt out all the way while counting turns. Each corner turned out 5 complete turns. I used a normal 10mm box-end wrench.
8. Clean brake calipers and back of wheel.
9. Reinstall wheel, torque lug nuts in three steps (50/75/100 lb. ft.).

Once complete, I drove it 20 miles and remeasured. Each corner came down by 1/2", so I still have the left/right mismatch at the front. Tomorrow I'll pull the left front and raise it 2.5 turns, that should get them as close to even as possible. I think it looks better, it drove the same, it doesn't pull while at steady speed or while braking.

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I never took off the wheels. I turned all 4 bolts all the way counterclockwise, drove the car and that was it.
 

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I just used this how-to again. Nicely illustrated & clear & nice tips in posts along the way in the thread.

Here's my new (to me) '16 Z51 w/MRC turned all the way down. For some reason it did not get as low as my old non-MRC '15 Z51:

Untitled by gtbzr1, on Flickr
 

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George, your C7 Masterpiece looks great!

SF
Rick
 
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