[stanton]

So I bought Elite Engineering's "Better" Catch Can and just installed it on the vette last night. Took about an hour of lazy work. Very easy, all you need is a socket wrench, some scissors to cut the hoses to size, and maybe some pliers for the hose clamps if you got girly fingers like me.

Here's the basic package:

Here it is all hooked up:

Instructions from their website were very easy to follow. Everything seems pretty high quality. Props to GM for the type of hose clamps they use; VERY user friendly (they're these weird push clamp things I've never seen before.

I went for a 100 mile drive and then came back and checked my can the following morning:

There was a light film of oil at the bottom (hard to see), but not enough that it really collects anywhere if you tilt the can (just a layer of oil really). I'm still in my break in period and only have 200 miles on the car now so I'll update as things go along.

Once I take some hard corners I imagine I'll see more oil come along.

One thing that concerns me is the separator that replaces the stock fill cap actually came apart into two pieces. It makes sense to me because it seems to be the only way you could actually screw the bottom piece into the box (the "elite" top part spins freely). But I can't really tell how great a seal it creates:

The "elite" part I'm holding above lifts straight out of the part that you screw into where you stock oil cap goes. So the part I'm holding is the too part, and the part that's in the hole is the bottom piece that's already screwed into the box. Looks like there's some dry gasketing there and it stays in well enough, but idk about a true seal. Maybe I'll gasket something in to help it:

If anyone has any questions I'd be happy to help. Steve, at elite engineering, was also extremely helpful with answering all my questions through our email exchanges. I'm currently waiting to see if he can comment on my separator issue.

If tunerboost, or anyone can comment on my separator concern it would be greatly appreciated. I'll update this as I get more mileage.

 

[glen e]

Z51 car?

 

[eric.snuder]

Keep us posted on the results


Sent from my iPad using Corvette Stingray Forum

 

[Chip]

Z51 car?

Based on the 5th picture down (dry sump tank) I would say yes it is.

 

[Chip]

Keep us posted on the results
Sent from my iPad using Corvette Stingray Forum

stanton; Please do us all a favor and keep a log on the amount of oil you drain out of the catch can and the mileage at which you drain or check it. Thanks!

 

[booie]

Nice job. Very curious to see how much oil you actually collect. You plan to break her in per the manual's instructions or spank her now and then?

Thanks,
booie

 

[eric.snuder]

If anyone is interested, I have an address to mail a sample of drained oil collected when an oil change is done. This company analyzes the drained oil to make sure no metal or other debris is found. Costs $25.00. I do it for my Porsche once a year. I do it for my Vette when it arrives(TPW 5/26.)


Sent from my iPad using Corvette Stingray Forum

 

[glen e]

Why the secrecy?

you mean Blackstone Labs?

Good service....

 

[eric.snuder]

No secrets.. wasn't sure if anyone would be interested. Yup.. Blackstone it is. I didn't know about Blackstone until a year ago . You must be more savvy than me!!


Sent from my iPad using Corvette Stingray Forum

 

[elegant]

Stanton, thanks for the write up and pictures. Question please. If you wanted, could you undo everything, return it to stock appearance.

Reason I am asking is that you didn't mention any drilling-- which has made some folks uneasy with another product install, and which will clearly leaves a "trail."

 

[glen e]

Actually john, I have a friend that has given me one that I should mount wed or so...just to see what it gets, I'll report. There is no drilling for a non sump "better" version. Installtion sheets on the elite site...

http://www.eliteengineeringusa.com/content/Catch_Can_Install_C7_ Corvette_Stingray_Base_non-Z51.pdf

 

[smajicek]

Stanton, thanks for the write up and pictures. Question please. If you wanted, could you undo everything, return it to stock appearance.

Reason I am asking is that you didn't mention any drilling-- which has made some folks uneasy with another product install, and which will clearly leaves a "trail."

Stantpn,
I agree here with John, on the RX catch can there is a 3/8 hole that has to be drilled into the air intake for one of the hoses? Interesting that this Elite product does not have that connection? I would be interested to know why?

 

[elegant]

Of course, one could buy a spare GM air intake coupler tube to revert to factory condition. As shown below, in Elite Engineering's "best" solution for a Z-51 catch can install, you need to similarly drill that hole, as in the picture below. First, a link to Elite's Z-51 dry sump catch can installation instructions:

https://store-581ad.mybigcommerce.com/content/Catch_Can_Install_C7_ Corvette_Stingray_Z51_REVB.pdf

 

[stanton]

The "Better" catch can solution requires no permanent modification to any parts. Very easy to return to stock without a trail as the single catch can outlet goes straight into the existing port.

The "Best" catch can elite offers (the e2) does require you to drill into your intake bridge because there are 2 catch can outlets, leaving no place to route that second outlet line but directly into your intake coupler. This would require you to replace that part (about $25 or so I think) to return to stock and I was not comfortable drilling a hole into my intake coupler.

 

[Dread Red]

Stanton, thanks for the write up and pictures. Question please. If you wanted, could you undo everything, return it to stock appearance.

Reason I am asking is that you didn't mention any drilling-- which has made some folks uneasy with another product install, and which will clearly leaves a "trail."

Anybody, posting on the internet leaves a 'trail'. I'm pretty sure it's possible to return to oem from any of these systems, even somebody doing a 2valve, like I did. All I'd need is to get that rubber piece on the airbridge, prob ~50ish $. The op (imo) has a huge advantage by having his installed at 200 miles. I did mine at almost 2000 miles, but I had a lot of confidence in my engine by then, I'm pretty sure it's not going to fail early, I'm now hopeful for the long run. I have one dealer who I'll work with, as needed, & he's on board with what I've done. Great thread Stanton, your install looks good & I think your can will do just fine. Best of luck w/that 1st 1000 miles or so, from what I've been seeing that's the real test of oil control.

 

[gmanb737]

Pardon if This seems dumb is the reason to return to stock a problem with warranty?

 

[Dread Red]

Pardon if This seems dumb is the reason to return to stock a problem with warranty?

Well, some people might think it could help them with a warranty claim in the event of oiling system failures, but I don't. If I wanted to sell the car I might consider switching it back. It's not rocket science but a lot of people don't have a good grasp of how pcv systems work & the can there might put them off, even if it turns out it's been saving the engine.

What I want to do is test the 2nd port, the airbridge side. I have an idea how to do it, I just have to work out the details.

 

[elegant]

Understand the caution Dread Red about "internet trails." Thanks, but just asking my question about return ability to stock solely as a Moderator, echoing similar questions other members have asked earlier. Won't apply to me personally, as all will be different for the 2015 supercharged Z06 motor, and who knows (???), perhaps GM will have a catch can for the LT4 -- reflecting everyone's agreement that the oil injestion issue will only be exacerbated by forced induction.

Dread Red, look forward to your further investigating about the air bridge side, and your sharing your learnings with us later.

 

[Jerry U]

So I bought Elite Engineering's "Better" Catch Can and just installed it on the vette last night. Took about an hour of lazy work. Very easy, all you need is a socket wrench, some scissors to cut the hoses to size, and maybe some pliers for the hose clamps if you got girly fingers like me.


One thing that concerns me is the separator that replaces the stock fill cap actually came apart into two pieces. It makes sense to me because it seems to be the only way you could actually screw the bottom piece into the box (the "elite" top part spins freely). But I can't really tell how great a seal it creates:

View attachment 7852

The "elite" part I'm holding above lifts straight out of the part that you screw into where you stock oil cap goes. So the part I'm holding is the too part, and the part that's in the hole is the bottom piece that's already screwed into the box. Looks like there's some dry gasketing there and it stays in well enough, but idk about a true seal. Maybe I'll gasket something in to help it:

View attachment 7853

If anyone has any questions I'd be happy to help. Steve, at elite engineering, was also extremely helpful with answering all my questions through our email exchanges. I'm currently waiting to see if he can comment on my separator issue.

If tunerboost, or anyone can comment on my separator concern it would be greatly appreciated. I'll update this as I get more mileage.

It looks like the large fat "O" Ring on the existing cap would slip over the base and would seal like it does now in the recess where this slips in. Have you consideredat doing that? I think it would be better than a gasket to keep the oil in the tank. It would slide up and down, unlike the OEM cap where there is a groove to capture it but as long as it doesn't come off the end when removing it, I would think that might work.

 

[stanton]

It looks like the large fat "O" Ring on the existing cap would slip over the base and would seal like it does now in the recess where this slips in. Have you consideredat doing that? I think it would be better than a gasket to keep the oil in the tank. It would slide up and down, unlike the OEM cap where there is a groove to capture it but as long as it doesn't come off the end when removing it, I would think that might work.

Not a bad idea, but I would definitely be afraid of loosing that O-ring into my oil. My only salvation right now is knowing that the line leads straight to the air intake, making it an open(ish) system anyway. I just thought the cap would have a more secure fit. I'll see what Steve at elite engineering says on Tuesday.