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What viscosity oil should be used. I see that they require demos 1 or Mobil 1. But there is no mention of viscosity. Also what oil pressure do you see on the gauge under normal operation? I am seeing pressures in the thirties which seems a little low to me.


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it's on the engine oil cap - 5w-30 and dexos is a rating - many makes of oils are dexos rated. My favorite is Mobil 1 extended performance with the Mobil 1 M-113 filter
 

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What viscosity oil should be used. I see that they require demos 1 or Mobil 1. But there is no mention of viscosity. Also what oil pressure do you see on the gauge under normal operation? I am seeing pressures in the thirties which seems a little low to me.


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You should have 2 years or 24,000 miles before you ever have to worry about it and I'm sure there will be thousands of threads everywhere about Oil in the C7 by the time you need to spend a dime on oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Glen and MJ.

Has any one looked at the average oil pressure when operating their car? What pressure range you seeing?


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it's on the engine oil cap - 5w-30 and dexos is a rating - many makes of oils are dexos rated. My favorite is Mobil 1 extended performance with the Mobil 1 M-113 filter
Does anybody know if the car comes from the factory with synthetic, or regular oil?
 

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What viscosity oil should be used. I see that they require demos 1 or Mobil 1. But there is no mention of viscosity. Also what oil pressure do you see on the gauge under normal operation? I am seeing pressures in the thirties which seems a little low to me.


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Page 10-14 and 15 in owners manual


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FYI
About GM dexos®


GM manufactures cars and trucks in 34 countries and sells them in over 140 countries. These vehicles contain an array of more than 20 different engine sizes. To function well and to last a long time, these increasingly high-performance engines need a consistently high-quality oil, and that quality and uniformity needs to be available anywhere in the world.

The dexos® specification was uniquely designed to complement the exacting requirements of GM's advanced engine technology. The specification has gone through an extensive developmental and testing process. It requires a number of proprietary tests that are not included in current industry standards and sets performance criteria at a level that exceeds many current standards. The result is a high performance fluid providing significant wear protection, improved piston cleanliness, a reduction in volatility and oil consumption, enhanced aeration control for improved fuel efficiency, and better oxidation properties. dexos® is an exclusive trademark of General Motors. Only those oils displaying the dexos® trademark and icon on the front label have been certified and licensed by GM as meeting the demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards of the dexos® specification.

There are many authentic licensed dexos® products readily available at retail outlets, service repair shops, quick lube operations, and GM service centers. dexos® licensed products are easy to identify. Simply look for the dexos® icon on the front label and the 11 digit alphanumeric dexos® license number on the back label. Unless an oil package displays these two markings, the engine oil is not an authentic, licensed dexos® product and is not recommended for use in GM vehicles. dexos® is recommended by GM for use in all its vehicles except those with Duramax diesel engines requiring the use of API CJ-4 engine oil. dexos® is fully backward-compatible and can be used in older vehicles. It is specified in the owner's manual for all 2011 and later model years, with the exception of Europe where dexos® is specified starting in model year 2010.

The dexos® specification and trademark are exclusive to General Motors, LLC. The Center for Quality Assurance monitors and publishes licensed dexos® products to assist consumers in making informed decisions when purchasing engine oil to service their vehicle.

dexos®
 

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My oil pressure runs in high 30s which seems low to me too but sounds like it's the norm that probably means it's ok.
 

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Synthetic.
So to properly break the rings in, I have to drain 10 qts. of expensive synthetic and fill with 10 qts. of regular oil, run for 50-100 miles, then put 10 qts. of synthetic back in? By the way, where do I get a 10 qt. drain pan?
 

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So to properly break the rings in, I have to drain 10 qts. of expensive synthetic and fill with 10 qts. of regular oil, run for 50-100 miles, then put 10 qts. of synthetic back in? By the way, where do I get a 10 qt. drain pan?
If you're old school and ignore all the published data by the oil companies that show conventional oil has no measurable positive effect on run in vs. synthetic then yes, you need to drain and refill. I choose to listen to the engineers at GM and all the other companies that factory fill their motors with Synthetic when it comes to oil viscosity, ratings and change intervals. However, if I operate the vehicle in a manner that could be considered severe duty then I follow those guidelines, which are also published in the owners guide.

It gets really interesting if you track the car and follow their guidelines because they recommend replacing their branded DEXOS with Mobil 1 then changing back after you get back from the track. I have to believe the ONLY reason they suggest changing back is to get the lighter weight oil back to maintain their CAFE ratings. It also points out that in severe duty the factory fill DEXOS isn't up to the task. Interesting reading to say the least.

A close friend of mine is a professional engine builder, building everything from 4 cylinder SCCA spec motors to 1600 HP Class 1 offshore race motors. I asked about synthetics vs. conventional for run-in a few years ago when we were building my race boat motor. He shed an interesting light on it. They use conventional oil for all the first runs, including the dyno pulls (every motor gets full power pulls on the engine dyno). Everyone assumes it's because they believe the conventional oil works better, it's not! They only use conventional oil because they know they will be replacing it after only about 2 hours of combined running time and consider it a waste of money to flush $9 / quart synthetic after such a short interval. They have tested using full synthetic from the build forward vs. the way they do it now and have never been able to measure a difference in performance or wear when the motors come back for freshening. Interesting how many belief's there are out there regarding oil and run-in.
 
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So to properly break the rings in, I have to drain 10 qts. of expensive synthetic and fill with 10 qts. of regular oil, run for 50-100 miles, then put 10 qts. of synthetic back in? By the way, where do I get a 10 qt. drain pan?

Here's the way I'm doing it. Convention 5-30 for 500 mi. then a good syn. for the remainder. That engine will go for 500K. Great article that explains it all.


New Engine Break-in Procedure
 

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That's what I'm saying. What do you put the oil in?
 

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That's what I'm saying. What do you put the oil in?
Are you looking for the oil change procedure specific to the Z51 dry sump?

Page 10-14 of your owners manual........
 

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I'm looking for a proper container to drain 10 qts. Of oil from the dry sump of a Z51.


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That's what I'm saying. What do you put the oil in?
I will drain the 10 qts, of conventional after 500 mi. and dispose of it. There will be a lot of crap in it that you wouldn't want to go back into an engine. I may be wrong but I think it's a better break in procedure. Check out airplanes and see how they break in the engines (not syn.). from what I've read you can spank this baby all day and she'll ask for more. Just my 2 cents worth.

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Nobody seems to understand. All of the drain pans I've seen hold 5 qts. Am I supposed to put the plugs back in while I empty the 5 qt. pan and then drain the rest of the oil? Also, dumping a 10 qt. pan may be somewhat awkward. Has anybody done this yet? How?


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