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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Has it been successful for most or nothing but nerve racking anticipation or "if it ain't broke, don't fix it? A number of you have mentioned it has a horror. Is it? Do I have to interview all the chevy dealers? Is it that much different an oil change than in other cars? How many miles did those of you have when having did the first change? What was the %oil life? Currently, I have 1080 miles, got it Feb, 2014 and I have 33% oil life. Is it time for me to change it? Thoughts?
 

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I changed the factory oil at 1500 miles to Amsoil. Then I changed it again at 5000. Now I change it every 5000 miles to keep it simple and easy. I never have to wonder when I'm due. It simple now 5000, 10,000, 15,000 and so on.


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I just took mine in today for first oil change. I left very concerned because they mentioned that it was only the second Stingray that they have seen! All you can do is hope that whoever is working on it knows what they are doing. Mine was at 18% with over 5000 miles. I feel like I should have changed it earlier by paying for it but I figured if GM thinks it's ok going that long before the first oil change then just let them do it at the time it calls for. Not sure one way or the other if it's bad on the engine to go that many miles on break-in oil.
 

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Although my car is not here yet I am checking to see how the local dealers react to my request for the first oil change at 1500 miles. When I asked my local Chevy dealer he said they would not change the oil until it was under 10% unless I wanted to pay for it. I called another dealer and they said they would change it at any time I wanted and at 1500 miles would be OK with them for the first oil change out of the 4 free ones.. They said they recommend change oil every 3000 miles. This seems excessively conservative to me. What are you owners finding as total miles when you get to 10% oil life left?
 

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What is unusual is the Z51 dry sump engine, which has two drain plugs. I have heard stories about techs unfamiliar with the car who only drain the sump and not the oil tank, then add the correct amount of oil to the tank, thereby overfilling everything and oil goes into the engine air intake.

I plan on a first oil change at around 750 miles, to get the initial wear metals out of the engine.
 

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Please don't take this as dismissive but it is an oil change nothing more. The days of 2500 mile oil change intervals are long over with modern oils (dino, blend, synthetic, whatever) easily going 10k between changes. If you want to feel better about it you can choose an interval like the guys above and go for it.

Having said all of that I'll probably change the oil at 1500mi and then let it go by the oil life monitor. Or I might not. Who knows :)
 

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randysandow it is pretty much like anything else you do that involves an important and or expensive item, do an appropriate level of checking to satisfy yourself. The Stingray is not inherently more complex than other automobiles when it comes to changing the oil and the oil filter (except for the two oil drain plugs on Z51s). One of the easiest means of increasing one's comfort level is to meet with local Corvette owners and see what their experiences have been with the dealers. In Cincinnati you will have a number of options within a reasonable drive. Time with local Corvette owners will quickly help you understand which dealers tend to do a good job and which don't. As for when to get your oil changed if you use our excellent search function you will find this topic has been pretty extensively discussed. There is no set answer. A lot depends on your driving style. FWIW I had my oil initially changed at 2500 miles after driving back from my Museum delivery and then again at 7000 miles. My latest change came close to my car's 1 year anniversary. The oil life was down to 7% and it was almost 11 calendar months since the first oil change, but 1 of the 11 months I did not drive my car at all.
 

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As I am within driving distance of MacMulkin, I plan on getting my "free" oil changes there. My sale person tells me it is their policy that a customer can get four oil changes in the first 24000 miles, and the customer can decide the interval between the changes. He thought my idea of changing the oil after the first 750 miles was a good idea. In normal, highway driving, I would go 5000 miles or more between oil changes after that initial one.

Although my car is not here yet I am checking to see how the local dealers react to my request for the first oil change at 1500 miles. When I asked my local Chevy dealer he said they would not change the oil until it was under 10% unless I wanted to pay for it. I called another dealer and they said they would change it at any time I wanted and at 1500 miles would be OK with them for the first oil change out of the 4 free ones.. They said they recommend change oil every 3000 miles. This seems excessively conservative to me. What are you owners finding as total miles when you get to 10% oil life left?
 

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I don't care about the free oil changes, I don't want a dealer touching my car unless it's warranty. And I don't want to engage in the oil wars, the interval or anything else.Many have sent their oil away to Blackstone and found out at 7500, blackstone recommended not changing for another 5000 miles!!

So here's my regimen:
Use Mobil 1 as it's cheap and good- Mobil 1 filter too.
Change oil and filter every 5000 miles
Initially change oil and filterat 1500 to clear the engine of mfg junk.
Run level at mid stick, not max fill.

And then I get back to other mods......
 

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I don't care about the free oil changes, I don't want a dealer touching my car unless it's warranty. And I don't want to engage in the oil wars, the interval or anything else.Many have sent their oil away to Blackstone and found out at 7500, blackstone recommended not changing for another 5000 miles!!

So here's my regimen:
Use Mobil 1 as it's cheap and good- Mobil 1 filter too.
Change oil and filter every 5000 miles
Initially change oil and filterat 1500 to clear the engine of mfg junk.
Run level at mid stick, not max fill.

And then I get back to other mods......
I'll agree with all of those Glen.
 

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Picked up my car a few weeks ago on Oct 2nd, left the next day on a 4,200 mile road trip - had the oil changed when I drove back into town.

I think oil life was at 48%, dealer replaced it with the spec'd semi-synthetic Dexos for $60.
I wanted this one on my nickel, though they said if the oil was around 25% they'd have done it for free.
 

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I had my first oil change at 500k's (310 miles). I drove the engine hard during break in. I just had my second oil change at 3,900's (2,425 miles). I just put the car away for the winter. I let my dealer change the oil. If they screw it up, they have to fix it. As others has pointed out, this isn't the first vette with a dry sump.

Both free oil changes.
 

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I am thinking my first oil change may come right after I pay for the car and before I drive it off the lot. However, I will need to find a Dexos-approved break-in oil of the correct weight. My thoughts are that a conventional mineral oil which is not synthetic or synthetic blend may help the rings to seat better. Again, I want to ensure it is Dexos-approved so I stay within the GM recommendations.

The second change will come between 500 and 1000 miles to get the filings out from the break-in. For the second change on, I will use a true fully-synthetic, Dexos-approved oil like Pennzoil Platinum Full Synthetic (which I know is Dexos-approved). For the change interval after that, it will be by the built-in oil life monitor.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a Dexos-approved, correct weight, break-in oil? I know many people swear by Royal Purple, but it isn't Dexos-approved, so I am not going with that.

Thanks!
 

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If you are going to use a specially selected oil during break in, it is my understanding that you may want to go with a viscosity lower than that normally recommended for normal use, provided that it has enough viscosity to maintain minimum recommended oil pressure. Which would suggest to me a 0w30. The lower number is usually indicative of the base stock viscosity. I don't think I would want to go to 0w20

Here is a sortable list of dexos 1 motor oils. Castrol Edge is a 0w30 oil.

dexos1 Brands | GM
 

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May as well dance widdershins while spilling goat's blood on a turnip. :) Ask 10 engine builders how to break in an engine and you'll get 10 different answers. Most everyone is just repeating what was done in the past. Mostly superstition all the way around.

My main question is why do you subscribe to GM's recommendations on dexos while ignoring their instructions on break in?
 

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I am not ignoring their instructions on break-in. Why would you suggest I am?

May as well dance widdershins while spilling goat's blood on a turnip. :) Ask 10 engine builders how to break in an engine and you'll get 10 different answers. Most everyone is just repeating what was done in the past. Mostly superstition all the way around.

My main question is why do you subscribe to GM's recommendations on dexos while ignoring their instructions on break in?
 

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I am not ignoring their instructions on break-in. Why would you suggest I am?
I'm going to assume you've read the manual. They are very specific as to what they want you to do and not to do. For the first 500 miles they expect you to keep it to <4000 rpm and vary the rpm. In addition they want you to burnish the brakes and break in the tires. For the brakes they give a specific procedure to do so. If it were critical to follow an arcane engine break in procedure they would tell you. Frankly I'm impressed that they've enforced a break in period electronically. Good show on their part. For myself I'll follow the break in procedure then begin flogging it senseless. :)

There is no mention of break in oils (dino or dexos) differing viscosities, etc.

From the 2014 Manual
New Vehicle Break-In
Follow these recommended guidelines during the first 2414 km (1500 mi) of driving this vehicle.
Parts have a break-in period and performance will be better in the long run.

For the first 322 km (200 mi):
To break in new tires, drive at moderate speeds and avoid hard cornering for the first 322 km (200 mi).
New brake linings also need a break- in period. Avoid making hard stops during the first
322 km (200 mi). This is recommended every time brake linings are replaced.

For the first 800 km (500 mi):
Avoid full throttle starts and abrupt stops.
Do not exceed 4000 rpm.
Avoid driving at any one constant speed, fast or slow, including the use of cruise control.
Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle when the engine speed will exceed 4000 rpm.
Do not let the engine labor. Never lug the engine. With a manual transmission, shift to the next lower gear. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period.

For the first 2414 km (1500 mi):
Do not participate in track events, sport driving schools, or similar activities during the first 2414 km (1500 mi).
Check engine oil with every refueling and add if necessary. Oil and fuel consumption may be higher than normal during the first 2414 km (1500 mi)

By comparison if you look in section 9-5 under Track Events and Competitive you will see a list of recommendations for changes in viscosity, alignment, pressure, etc. GM appears to be open about what they do and do not want you to do.
 

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Hi Denzil, yes, I have read all of that. Again, I do not understand your question of "My main question is why do you subscribe to GM's recommendations on dexos while ignoring their instructions on break in?" As a matter of fact, there is absolutely nothing in their break-in instructions that I am ignoring.

What, precisely, did you think I was ignoring with respect to break-in instructions? I am completely at a loss here of how you made a jump from my post #14, to assuming somehow I was going to violate some of GM's break-in procedures.
 

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While the manual's break in procedure should be adhered to, it is not exhaustive. I can see good and logical arguments for an early oil and filter change, which will not harm the car. It is logical as one would expect a higher rate of wear metals to be generated in the first miles of operation, and it would be preferable to have them removed early.
 
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