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Discussion Starter #1
2016 Z51
del 11Aug15
current: 43,262 miles

So I thought I had a battery problem because of a whirring noise I heard by the door. Thought the motors weren't getting enough power.
But nice JSVette directed me to some other threads about the fuel door actuator failing and a fix.
https://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/general-discussion/81494-do-i-need-new-battery.html

I was able to open the door and push the lock pin back and totally IN so it wouldn't be a problem again. But that noise was still there.
At first I was going to take the suggestion of just removing the actuator as posts have mentioned but then I thought why not check with Chevy about it.

I called Chevrolet Customer Service. After informing them although they said it was definitely out of warranty I should contact my Chevy dealer about it. Customer Service did give me a report number on it.

I then called my Chevy dealer where I bought it and made an appointment for today.

I also made a report with the NTSB because the only way recalls are made are with reports. If enough come in then everyone would get a recall/fix for a better design.

Today at Chevy they checked with GM Assistance who agreed to 100% coverage of replacement. About 2 hours later I was back in my car with a new locking fuel door.

Strange thing is they replaced part #84195316 which is the black plastic fuel housing. The tech said that part incorporates the locking actuator but the parts view explosion does NOT show our auto/Lock actuator on GM Parts online. It notes this plastic piece to be only $41.27 which I'm sure does NOT include the actuator.

But the actuator is nice and quiet now and the pin slides back and forth nicely. I fit happens again I'll just pull the dang thing but for now I have a nice new part on my car.:single_eye:
 

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Thanks for the update and very glad it sounds like it has been resolved :)
 

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I also made a report with the NTSB because the only way recalls are made are with reports. If enough come in then everyone would get a recall/fix for a better design.
I believe NHTSA would be the proper agency not NTSB. Since federal recalls are based only on safety issues, I'm not sure a noisy fuel door would meet their criteria.
 

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Since it seems like GM has still not resolved the fuel door lock issue, I just put a scrivet in the fuel door of my new Grand Sport. I had it in my 2014 for several years with no issues. I don’t want to get locked out of my fuel access while on a trip away from home.


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Since it seems like GM has still not resolved the fuel door lock issue, I just put a scrivet in the fuel door of my new Grand Sport. I had it in my 2014 for several years with no issues. I don’t want to get locked out of my fuel access while on a trip away from home.


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Agree, I did the same, a <$1 solution.

History and Test:

Never used the Scrivet solution in my 2014 C7 I had for 3 1/2 years. Although it might have hung up a few times was not sure and although there are Forum posts that mention the non opening issue it was not that frequent or a significant problem.

Had my Grand Sport for about 2 months and needed to press the FOB open doors button several repeat times to get the gas filler door to open. Decided I didn’t want to take the risk and inserting a Scrvet in the door lock hole is so much easier than messing with removing the actuator- why would anyone do that?

Easy test to see if blocking the actuator could cause harm. Opened the filler door and put my finger over the hole where the actuator pin protrudes. Then hit the door lock button on the FOB. The pin hit my finger with very little force that stayed for only about a second, then the power to the electric actuator motor was no longer applying a force. Therefore no harm done if blocked.

Many folks have installed a Scrivet in the hole in the gas lid that prevents the pin from entering. If you don’t park in an area where there is concern someone might tamper with your gas, an easy solution, certainly better than removing the actuator. Easily reversed if desired when selling the car.

The risk is: if very low on gas and can’t get the gas filler lid open you need a jack and some wrenches to remove the drivers side rear wheel and a wrench to remove the front inner fender well material to access the actuator to manually pull the pin back.

There is some information that you can pry off the lid. Not so easy to do without damage and frankly anyone bent on militious damage could also just use a screwdriver to pry it off!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The reason someone would remove the actuator is because they don't want to hear a sad grunting whirring sound every time they unlock their door. Some like mine have bad actuators which make this sound. Yes the cheap/easy fix with a good actuator is the plug the hole fix.
For now if you have this problem of the actuator NOT doing its job check with your dealer. A no cost repair is available.
If you just want to have that peace of mind plug the hole and leave the actuator.

If I have this problem again I know how to snap off the fuel door panel to gain access to 'unlock' the door. After that it would be plug hole or remove actuator depending on whether the thing is making that noise.
 

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I've had a scrivet for over four years.

Simple. Inexpensive, and guaranteed to never fail.

What's not to like?
 

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I am somewhat amused at the amount of trepidation/attention removing the gas lid gets later on in that linked thread. One may interpret from several posts in that thread, and even one here in this one, that if they attempt to remove the gas lid they should apply for diminished value.:nightmare:

The lid literally just pops/snaps off once you create enough space with the trim tool to get your fingers in there. It is no more dangerous or difficult than removing interior trim pieces..sill plate or sill trim, for example. If one uses any amount of foresight to use something soft between the trim tool and body so you don't scratch the edge of the adjacent body panel, I see risk of damage as extremely minimal to zero for those that wish to still have locking function and not use a scrivet as a preventative measure. On a difficulty level this is about a 1.1 and takes less than 1 minute. IMO, much easier in an emergency malfunction situation than going thru the wheel well to remove the actuator. In the end, I don't care which option anyone chooses and am not by any means trying to sway anyone to one way over another. I simply know as fact, because I have done it more than once, that it is incredibly easy to remove the fuel lid door with no damage. There are a slew of posts that are contrary to that on here (especially in linked thread above) . I can only imagine some are guessing at difficulty and damage potential?

BTW, a few posts down from the one Mobius linked above I offer to send a free scrivet including shipping. Still valid.
 

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Hey Matt - i might want to throw the trim tool in the trunk box just in case... can u send an example of what you used?

TIA
 

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Hey Matt - i might want to throw the trim tool in the trunk box just in case... can u send an example of what you used?

TIA
Link in Mobius' post #10 above should take you directly to my post #23 in that thread. Second picture down below the bag of scrivets.

EDIT: Added photo from thread (trim tool, small screw driver and MF towel)
0177dbb60d167f9cd9a5d9b8cbe94dbbdba79d7a2e.jpg
 

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I agree with Matt (post #11)- it is very easy and safe to remove the fuel door should the situation ever arise. I carry a nice small plastic trim tool that looks like a mini crow bar in both RedHot and my XTS (which has the same exact fuel door set up). However, to date, have never had an issue with either RedHot (5 y.o.) and my XTS (6 y.o.). :eek:nthego:
 

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I agree with Matt (post #11)- it is very easy and safe to remove the fuel door should the situation ever arise. I carry a nice small plastic trim tool that looks like a mini crow bar in both RedHot and my XTS (which has the same exact fuel door set up). However, to date, have never had an issue with either RedHot (5 y.o.) and my XTS (6 y.o.). :eek:nthego:
Jeff, where did you get that plastic trim tool? I've never seen anything like it. It was good for Matt to figure this all out for us. Hopefully I never have the problem.
 

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Jeff, where did you get that plastic trim tool? I've never seen anything like it. It was good for Matt to figure this all out for us. Hopefully I never have the problem.
I am at the AutoMobility right now so can't id the specific set I got, but it was from Amazon and similar to the following one

1.jpg
 

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All the auto parts stores have the same five piece set also. I think I got mine at Autozone, but have seen them at all the others.
 

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Harbor Freight has them as well. Usually on sale for less than $10.00 if I remember correctly.
 

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I don't think the fuel doors on all cars are as easy to remove as they are on some.

Even with the fuel door open, with several attempts at dry runs, I was never able to get mine to slide off. I tugged, I pulled, I tried to cheat by pushing back on what looked like locking pins on the inside, and it absolutely seemed as if it would break the fuel door hinge before the door would come off.

I bought a pack of scrivets which supposedly had the same part number as the correct one identified by Matt. When inserted into the fuel door hole, they would not allow the fuel door to close because they were too big (both diameter as well as thickness of the head). They were from Amazon, and I think they were just some knock-off Chinese junk that were not the correct dimensions.

Matt, I would be happy to get one of those correctly-sized scrivets from you. My solution right now is that the C7 never goes further from home than what the gas already in the tank can bring me back to my garage for a slow disassembly of the wheel well liner to get at it that way if I have a failure of the actuator.

For all of you getting a C8, I hope GM puts a pull tab into the trunk for you to resolve this.
 

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Rodney, read your post and went out to the garage to verify that 1) all the scrivets in the bag from photo mentioned where you got the part number are all the same size, which they are, and 2) removed original scrivet and replaced with one from that bag to verify that it works and it does. So, I can only give the 'ole shoulder shrug and offer to send you one that I just verified will work if you PM me your address.

I also, read in other thread, as well as here, your comments about removing door while open. Just tried it while open, understand what you mean now, and agree with you fully. I had always tried it with the locking bolt engaged whilst closed and my belief is that provides more stability/leverage than open.
 
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