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Rodney, read your post and went out to the garage to verify that 1) all the scrivets in the bag from photo mentioned where you got the part number are all the same size, which they are, and 2) removed original scrivet and replaced with one from that bag to verify that it works and it does. So, I can only give the 'ole shoulder shrug and offer to send you one that I just verified will work if you PM me your address.

I also, read in other thread, as well as here, your comments about removing door while open. Just tried it while open, understand what you mean now, and agree with you fully. I had always tried it with the locking bolt engaged whilst closed and my belief is that provides more stability/leverage than open.
Thanks, Matt! I will send my address to you via a personal message soon.

Hum... I understand what you are saying about the door being more stable when closed. I haven't tried that. I just assumed that if I couldn't get it off with the door open (full access) I wouldn't have a hope of getting it off closed. Now I understand that my assumption was invalid.

Thank you again for the correctly-sized scrivet!
 

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Have seen this question about what part number Scrivet a number of times on gas cover Threads. If like me, I just looked in my "stash of stuff" I might need some day and found something that fit! Have no idea what the part number may have been!

For those that don't save every bolt, nut and "whatever" removed and put in a container, suggest going to Lowes or Home Depot as they have draws of different fasteners with a number of plastic plugs of various sizes including some Scrivets. Bring a bolt or any round item that just fits the hole in the gas lid and find something that fits. It does not have to be a Scrivet. Most automotive stores have various automotive snap in plastic and rubber plugs that will work fine. FWIW
Plugs.jpg
 

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I used electrical tape and wrapped it around several times so I can easily take it off just as you could A scrivet it works beautifully but I may play with it using the plastic trim tools and if successful like posted above I may take the tape off and just keep a trim tool in the trunk. thanks
 

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I used electrical tape and wrapped it around several times so I can easily take it off just as you could A scrivet it works beautifully but I may play with it using the plastic trim tools and if successful like posted above I may take the tape off and just keep a trim tool in the trunk. thanks
I did a hybrid version. I found a scrivet in a container of leftover nails and screws in the garage. It had the right size head, but the pin portion was too thin to fit securely, so I wrapped a bit of electrical tape around it, and it's been there almost four years.
 

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I am somewhat amused at the amount of trepidation/attention removing the gas lid gets later on in that linked thread. One may interpret from several posts in that thread, and even one here in this one, that if they attempt to remove the gas lid they should apply for diminished value.:nightmare:

The lid literally just pops/snaps off once you create enough space with the trim tool to get your fingers in there. It is no more dangerous or difficult than removing interior trim pieces..sill plate or sill trim, for example. If one uses any amount of foresight to use something soft between the trim tool and body so you don't scratch the edge of the adjacent body panel, I see risk of damage as extremely minimal to zero for those that wish to still have locking function and not use a scrivet as a preventative measure. On a difficulty level this is about a 1.1 and takes less than 1 minute. IMO, much easier in an emergency malfunction situation than going thru the wheel well to remove the actuator. In the end, I don't care which option anyone chooses and am not by any means trying to sway anyone to one way over another. I simply know as fact, because I have done it more than once, that it is incredibly easy to remove the fuel lid door with no damage. There are a slew of posts that are contrary to that on here (especially in linked thread above) . I can only imagine some are guessing at difficulty and damage potential?

BTW, a few posts down from the one Mobius linked above I offer to send a free scrivet including shipping. Still valid.
Please advise if this is the proper way to do as you advise: I have an assortment of plastic trim tools. Today, in the garage, with the car door closed and the gas door locked, I inserted a trim tool to the left and slowly moved it around the bottom to the right. I didn't put enough pressure to get my finger under the door. This is where I need your advice. I was concerned that I'd break something if I pried up further. Is it OK to continue pressure until the door pops open? I intend to carry around the trim tool and only use it as a last resort. Thanks in advance
 

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Please advise if this is the proper way to do as you advise: I have an assortment of plastic trim tools. Today, in the garage, with the car door closed and the gas door locked, I inserted a trim tool to the left and slowly moved it around the bottom to the right. I didn't put enough pressure to get my finger under the door. This is where I need your advice. I was concerned that I'd break something if I pried up further. Is it OK to continue pressure until the door pops open? I intend to carry around the trim tool and only use it as a last resort. Thanks in advance
I don't think the approach is to try an use the trim tool to get the door to pop open. What you are wanting to do, is use the trim tool to get the door out enough to allow you to slide the actual door cover off of its bracket (be sure to have a micro fiber towel under the edge that faces the the back of the C7 so that you don't scratch your body while pushing the door off its bracket).
 

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Jeff is correct. I would just add that there is a hefty yank towards you (out) and back (toward rear) simultaneously.
 

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I don't think the approach is to try an use the trim tool to get the door to pop open. What you are wanting to do, is use the trim tool to get the door out enough to allow you to slide the actual door cover off of its bracket (be sure to have a micro fiber towel under the edge that faces the the back of the C7 so that you don't scratch your body while pushing the door off its bracket).
Where is the bracket? To the back? Do you raise the L or R part of the door? Lift up the L and push the door to the L? Sorry to belabor but I'm dense
 

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Where is the bracket? To the back? Do you raise the L or R part of the door? Lift up the L and push the door to the L? Sorry to belabor but I'm dense
Please see this post with explanation and pictures should help you:
https://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/general-discussion/8355-fuel-door-stuck-locked-mode-2.html#post199611

"Bracket"/mount is dead center of fuel door

You can raise the bottom or right side

Lift up right side and pull out towards you and to the rear of the car
 

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Rodney, read your post and went out to the garage to verify that 1) all the scrivets in the bag from photo mentioned where you got the part number are all the same size, which they are, and 2) removed original scrivet and replaced with one from that bag to verify that it works and it does. So, I can only give the 'ole shoulder shrug and offer to send you one that I just verified will work if you PM me your address.

I also, read in other thread, as well as here, your comments about removing door while open. Just tried it while open, understand what you mean now, and agree with you fully. I had always tried it with the locking bolt engaged whilst closed and my belief is that provides more stability/leverage than open.
Hi Matt,

Thank you! I got the scrivets in the mail today. The type you sent allowed me to close the fuel door after putting the scrivet in the hole in the fuel door. Although the scrivets I bought from Amazon had the correct part number, they had a larger head which, after insertion into the fuel door, would not allow the fuel door to close.

Thank you!

-Rodney
 

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I don't think the approach is to try an use the trim tool to get the door to pop open. What you are wanting to do, is use the trim tool to get the door out enough to allow you to slide the actual door cover off of its bracket (be sure to have a micro fiber towel under the edge that faces the the back of the C7 so that you don't scratch your body while pushing the door off its bracket).
This subject was getting me paranoid:torn: It started with me trying to open the door with a trim tool. I'm slow to follow instructions and tried to force the door open. NO NO. SO today I took a small 1/2" piece of tin, laid it over the "scrivet hole", secured with a couple wraps of electrical tape and a small tie wrap, cinched it down and now I'm free of worry.
 

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This subject was getting me paranoid:torn: It started with me trying to open the door with a trim tool. I'm slow to follow instructions and tried to force the door open. NO NO. SO today I took a small 1/2" piece of tin, laid it over the "scrivet hole", secured with a couple wraps of electrical tape and a small tie wrap, cinched it down and now I'm free of worry.
Glad to read, 'cause we certainly don't want to contribute to anyone's paranoia. ;) ;)
 

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Hi Matt,

Thank you! I got the scrivets in the mail today. The type you sent allowed me to close the fuel door after putting the scrivet in the hole in the fuel door. Although the scrivets I bought from Amazon had the correct part number, they had a larger head which, after insertion into the fuel door, would not allow the fuel door to close.

Thank you!

-Rodney
You’re welcome! Glad it worked.
 

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For those that don't keep sets of trim tools around, here is my fix used today:

Worked a microfiber towel slowly under the back edge of the fuel door until I could get the towel wedged in enough to hold the door above the side of the body. Then took a large straight screwdriver and started working it in the front edge of the fuel door, holding it pretty much vertical to the body side. This gave me leverage to start edging the fuel door towards the back of the car simply by pushing the screwdriver handle towards the back of the car while holding the back of the fuel door above the car body side. Doing this a few times with the large screwdriver made it clear I was making progress on getting the fuel door to break loose from the bracket inside. Worked very easily, just take your time and watch what you are doing and you won't get any scratches. Key is to get the back side of the fuel door held up with the towel jammed in there so you can start pushing the front of the fuel door backwards. I just pushed the locking tab back into the body and covered the locking hole in the fuel door with tape. Should be permanent fix and I wasn't worried about locking the fuel door anyway. Hope this helps some folks without the trim tools, etc.
 
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