There has been a lot of talk on how to mount your front license plate, so I thought I might share how I mounted my rear license plate.
Rumor has it, mounting your rear plate directly to your car will eventually scratch your paint. (with all the vibration going on
back there) Some people have reported that that even applying adhesive weatherstripping to the plate will eventually turn it into a strip of sandpaper over time with any small amount of dirt trapped between the plate and the painted surface.
I had originally planned on buying thick rubber washers to place between the painted surface and the bolt in an
attempt to create a sort of "air gap" between the plate and the car, but I ended up finding something better.
All found at Home Depot in the Hardware section
EVERBILT Expansion Nuts - 1/4in 20 Coarse Brass plated
SKU 8748014388
EVERBILT Round Head Combo 1/4in - 20 x 1 - 1/4in
SKU 8748014501
The expansion nuts are rubber coated and so the fat end can safely rest against your car. Insert the bolt through the
license plate, through the nut, and into the nylon nut on your vette. Be sure to get at least 1-1/4 inch bolts.
The expansion nuts look like this:
![nutInsert.png]()
One thing I was concerned about is that dealer provided license plate bolts had a coarser threading than the nuts and bolts I wanted to buy. They were labeled as "coarse", but definitely had a finer threading. However they ended up working just fine. I suppose the plastic holes attached to the license plate area are forgiving as I had no problems screwing it in.
Here is what it looks like when its all put together
![plate.jpg]()
Does anyone know if those white nylon nuts come threaded or not? My dealer had already attached my temporary tags when I picked up the car, so I don't know what they look like from the factory. Just wondering if I re-threaded those nuts by putting in finer threaded bolts.
Another idea for all you getting a clear bra installed is to have your installer put some in the plate area.
Rumor has it, mounting your rear plate directly to your car will eventually scratch your paint. (with all the vibration going on
back there) Some people have reported that that even applying adhesive weatherstripping to the plate will eventually turn it into a strip of sandpaper over time with any small amount of dirt trapped between the plate and the painted surface.
I had originally planned on buying thick rubber washers to place between the painted surface and the bolt in an
attempt to create a sort of "air gap" between the plate and the car, but I ended up finding something better.
All found at Home Depot in the Hardware section
EVERBILT Expansion Nuts - 1/4in 20 Coarse Brass plated
SKU 8748014388
EVERBILT Round Head Combo 1/4in - 20 x 1 - 1/4in
SKU 8748014501
The expansion nuts are rubber coated and so the fat end can safely rest against your car. Insert the bolt through the
license plate, through the nut, and into the nylon nut on your vette. Be sure to get at least 1-1/4 inch bolts.
The expansion nuts look like this:
One thing I was concerned about is that dealer provided license plate bolts had a coarser threading than the nuts and bolts I wanted to buy. They were labeled as "coarse", but definitely had a finer threading. However they ended up working just fine. I suppose the plastic holes attached to the license plate area are forgiving as I had no problems screwing it in.
Here is what it looks like when its all put together
Does anyone know if those white nylon nuts come threaded or not? My dealer had already attached my temporary tags when I picked up the car, so I don't know what they look like from the factory. Just wondering if I re-threaded those nuts by putting in finer threaded bolts.
Another idea for all you getting a clear bra installed is to have your installer put some in the plate area.
