That's one of my favorite C7 features. I leave the engine sound set to "Track," and drive in Touring & Sport all the time.Jack, you could have still had the 'start off roar' if you had set your NPP to be always open (that is not associated with the Drive Mode), and then could have set the drive mode to Tour and had the best of both worlds
How Does Your C7 Track Down the Road
I probably have close to 1/2 million miles on Corvettes which were C3, C4, C5's. I put over 172,000 miles on the C5.
I'm very familiar with suspensions and alignment, as on all the cars that I road raced, I have the manual equipment for alignment and I did them.
It was apparent with my 2015 C7 it was pulling very slightly to the right when on the right side of the road, and it would track straight when on the left side of the road. Because of the crown of most roads, the car should pull slightly to the left on the left side. In most cases, unless there is more crown than normal, a well set up car should track straight no matter what side of the road it's on.
With a 4000 mile trip planned, I called my dealer and said that on the way out on my trip, I would like to stop there and have the alignment checked. He said fine.
With car loaded, I stopped in and then they told me that because I only had 325 miles on the car, GM would not cover an alignment until the car had 500 miles on it and the suspension had a chance to settle. Finally with the stipulation that if the car started to pull the other way after it had accumulated more miles, I would have to pay to correct it.
I agreed, and it went on the alignment rack.
They found the left caster was off 1/2', and made the correction. This seemed in my mind enough to correct the problem.
5 miles from the dealer I was on the Interstate and on my way to Florida.
Soon became apparent that the car was pulling to the right no matter what side of the road I was on. Soon began to wonder if my wrists would hold out for 4000 miles of this.
Also became apparent as the miles accumulated, that sometimes the car was just fine, then it would return to the right pull even though the crown appeared to same in all cases.
For example, once I reached I-75 in Florida, car was perfect, but a few miles before it was not.
All my race cars were 4 wheel independent, and the most critical adjustment was the fact that the rear had to have toe-in, or it would be unstable. Am beginning to wonder if I might have this problem.
My questions are;
1. How does your C7 track? My C5 didn't seem to care, it would track straight unless the road was grooved from the 18 wheelers, and the wide tires did not like that
2. Has anyone experienced my problems, and was it corrected?
I'll be back home next week and am looking for information to pass on to the dealer, who by the way to this point had been most co-operative.
BTW, when the car was tracking straight on I-75, yes, it is a much better handling car than the C5.
Thanks
Jack
I'm very familiar with suspensions and alignment, as on all the cars that I road raced, I have the manual equipment for alignment and I did them.
It was apparent with my 2015 C7 it was pulling very slightly to the right when on the right side of the road, and it would track straight when on the left side of the road. Because of the crown of most roads, the car should pull slightly to the left on the left side. In most cases, unless there is more crown than normal, a well set up car should track straight no matter what side of the road it's on.
With a 4000 mile trip planned, I called my dealer and said that on the way out on my trip, I would like to stop there and have the alignment checked. He said fine.
With car loaded, I stopped in and then they told me that because I only had 325 miles on the car, GM would not cover an alignment until the car had 500 miles on it and the suspension had a chance to settle. Finally with the stipulation that if the car started to pull the other way after it had accumulated more miles, I would have to pay to correct it.
I agreed, and it went on the alignment rack.
They found the left caster was off 1/2', and made the correction. This seemed in my mind enough to correct the problem.
5 miles from the dealer I was on the Interstate and on my way to Florida.
Soon became apparent that the car was pulling to the right no matter what side of the road I was on. Soon began to wonder if my wrists would hold out for 4000 miles of this.
Also became apparent as the miles accumulated, that sometimes the car was just fine, then it would return to the right pull even though the crown appeared to same in all cases.
For example, once I reached I-75 in Florida, car was perfect, but a few miles before it was not.
All my race cars were 4 wheel independent, and the most critical adjustment was the fact that the rear had to have toe-in, or it would be unstable. Am beginning to wonder if I might have this problem.
My questions are;
1. How does your C7 track? My C5 didn't seem to care, it would track straight unless the road was grooved from the 18 wheelers, and the wide tires did not like that
2. Has anyone experienced my problems, and was it corrected?
I'll be back home next week and am looking for information to pass on to the dealer, who by the way to this point had been most co-operative.
BTW, when the car was tracking straight on I-75, yes, it is a much better handling car than the C5.
Thanks
Jack
21 - 40 of 51 Posts
JeffJack, you could have still had the 'start off roar' if you had set your NPP to be always open (that is not associated with the Drive Mode), and then could have set the drive mode to Tour and had the best of both worlds
Can you walk me through how to do this? Can it be done on a 1LT?
Thanks
Jack
Update on pulling problem.
Just completed driving the car 200 miles with front tires exchanged from side to side.
Sorry to report there was not the slightest hint the problem was disappearing.
Just got off the phone with Scott at Masse Chevrolet, and set up an appointment for next Wednesday (weather permitting) to put the car up on their brand new alignment machine. As usual, the conversation was friendly and Scott wants to solve this problem too.
Hopefully this time next week all will be well. Will post the results
Jack
Just completed driving the car 200 miles with front tires exchanged from side to side.
Sorry to report there was not the slightest hint the problem was disappearing.
Just got off the phone with Scott at Masse Chevrolet, and set up an appointment for next Wednesday (weather permitting) to put the car up on their brand new alignment machine. As usual, the conversation was friendly and Scott wants to solve this problem too.
Hopefully this time next week all will be well. Will post the results
Jack
Go into your personal setting Jack. Press Setting. Press Driving Mode. Select Engine Sound Management. Select Off (Auto links the NPP to whatever Drive Mode you are in). That should do it for you. It should sound great on start up and any time you are on the accelerator. When you are not on the accelerator it will settle back into "quite".Jeff
Can you walk me through how to do this? Can it be done on a 1LT?
Thanks
Jack
Thanks JeffGo into your personal setting Jack. Press Setting. Press Driving Mode. Select Engine Sound Management. Select Off (Auto links the NPP to whatever Drive Mode you are in). That should do it for you. It should sound great on start up and any time you are on the accelerator. When you are not on the accelerator it will settle back into "quite".
Just got in from the garage.
Had the mode set to Wet (was raining when I brought the car home), and the engine idling.
Got as far as trying to select "OFF" on your list, but could not find that choice. Put it into Track (on info panel, not the driving mode selector) and the idle became loud, so I guess I'm where I want to be.
Thanks for the help
Jack
Have not experienced any tracking problems with my C5's, C6, or C7. Now there is a section of I-95 SB in MD just S of DE, I could not keep any of those 4 Vettes straight, fighting the wheel in the truck ruts in the macadam.
NormHave not experienced any tracking problems with my C5's, C6, or C7. Now there is a section of I-95 SB in MD just S of DE, I could not keep any of those 4 Vettes straight, fighting the wheel in the truck ruts in the macadam.
There is a section on I-26 that goes from Columbia S.C. to I-95 that with my C4 and C5 I had to slow down about 10mph because the car would violently jump around because of the truck "furrows".
I was curious as to how the C7 would handle this last month, and it was the same as my C5 and C4. The good news is they are in the process of re-surfacing that stretch of road, and possibly it has been completed by now.
Wide tires do not handle ruts well, and fortunately there are not that many roads in that condition.
Right now I'm leaning towards the problem being in the rear. Hope that will be resolved next week.
I have had several sports cars. On the right side the cars always seems to pull to the right and on the left side the cars seem to track straight. This seems pretty normal. I used to think it wasn't until I got the car aligned and was told it was fine. Sometimes in these situations your mind plays tricks on you. The grades in the road can make a huge difference as well as the tire pressures. Just my two cent. There has never been a situation were it pulled to the left on the left side, always to the right.
CJI have had several sports cars. On the right side the cars always seems to pull to the right and on the left side the cars seem to track straight. This seems pretty normal. I used to think it wasn't until I got the car aligned and was told it was fine. Sometimes in these situations your mind plays tricks on you. The grades in the road can make a huge difference as well as the tire pressures. Just my two cent. There has never been a situation were it pulled to the left on the left side, always to the right.
Thanks for your input.
I've always had sport cars, longer than I beginning to care to remember. My first one was an almost new TR2, and I've never had one of them that pulls to the right like this.
On the past Florida trip, it would make the sweeping turns to the right on I-95 all by itself.
Mechanics used to say before the advent of modern wheel balancers, that manufacturers would build a little right steer into the car to keep tension on the tie rods to avoid wheel shake if it was a little out of balance and the rod ends had a little play in them.
All I want is my C7 to drive nice and straight like my C5 did for 172,500 miles. It only turned when I told it to.
I know the C7 will do the same one of these days.
I had my C7 lowered 3/4" on the standard jack bolts all4 corners. First drive after I had tracking issues; right lane tracks right, left lane tracks left (more so than right lane). Had an alignment done, minor adjustment made and seen some improvement. Need more road time to continued to evaluate but Jack Frost is picking a fight lately...
Jack; Check this out:http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/stingray-corvette-problems-issues/7889-some-issues-i-am-seeing-vol-2-11-21-14-a-2.htmlI probably have close to 1/2 million miles on Corvettes which were C3, C4, C5's. I put over 172,000 miles on the C5.
I'm very familiar with suspensions and alignment, as on all the cars that I road raced, I have the manual equipment for alignment and I did them.
It was apparent with my 2015 C7 it was pulling very slightly to the right when on the right side of the road, and it would track straight when on the left side of the road. Because of the crown of most roads, the car should pull slightly to the left on the left side. In most cases, unless there is more crown than normal, a well set up car should track straight no matter what side of the road it's on.
With a 4000 mile trip planned, I called my dealer and said that on the way out on my trip, I would like to stop there and have the alignment checked. He said fine.
With car loaded, I stopped in and then they told me that because I only had 325 miles on the car, GM would not cover an alignment until the car had 500 miles on it and the suspension had a chance to settle. Finally with the stipulation that if the car started to pull the other way after it had accumulated more miles, I would have to pay to correct it.
I agreed, and it went on the alignment rack.
They found the left caster was off 1/2', and made the correction. This seemed in my mind enough to correct the problem.
5 miles from the dealer I was on the Interstate and on my way to Florida.
Soon became apparent that the car was pulling to the right no matter what side of the road I was on. Soon began to wonder if my wrists would hold out for 4000 miles of this.
Also became apparent as the miles accumulated, that sometimes the car was just fine, then it would return to the right pull even though the crown appeared to same in all cases.
For example, once I reached I-75 in Florida, car was perfect, but a few miles before it was not.
All my race cars were 4 wheel independent, and the most critical adjustment was the fact that the rear had to have toe-in, or it would be unstable. Am beginning to wonder if I might have this problem.
My questions are;
1. How does your C7 track? My C5 didn't seem to care, it would track straight unless the road was grooved from the 18 wheelers, and the wide tires did not like that
2. Has anyone experienced my problems, and was it corrected?
I'll be back home next week and am looking for information to pass on to the dealer, who by the way to this point had been most co-operative.
BTW, when the car was tracking straight on I-75, yes, it is a much better handling car than the C5.
Thanks
Jack
Post #11
I feel your pain about the tracking issue. I had a BMW M3 and if it pulled at all it would drive me nuts and the enjoyment would be taken right out of it. Maybe I'm getting older and notice it a lot less. Anyway, one suggestion is to take it to a road with virtually no grade and test the thing out. If it pulls then of course there's a problem. Tire pressures are the first thing to check, followed by whether there is a bent rim in the front and then finally an alignment
A bent rim will definitely mess things up and they cannot be seen by the naked eye
GM TB :
If the C7 drives straight ahead without pulling, but the steering wheel is off-angle, refer to the appropriate Service Information for a steering wheel angle condition.
Be sure to document “Before” and “After” wheel alignment measurements whenever an alignment is performed.
Diagnosis should follow these steps:
1) If the pull is minor, but still correctable, verify the condition by lightly holding the steering wheel while driving the vehicle in a straight line at 60-65 mph (97-105 km/h).
Document the direction of the pull and rate the condition by describing the amount of pull on a scale of 1–10. Do this evaluation in both left and right sloping lanes as the vehicle will follow the road crown/camber.
If the vehicle follows the road crown/camber, this is normal operation and the vehicle is performing to design intent. No repairs are necessary.
2) Do a left to right front wheel/tire assembly swap and evaluate the vehicle again. Document the results.
If the pull direction is opposite, refer to the Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction procedure in the appropriate Service Information to isolate the tire causing the condition. Otherwise, continue to the next step if the pull in the same direction is still present.
3) Put the vehicle on an alignment rack.
Record the “Before” measurements and modify the wheel alignment to counteract the pull condition. A vehicle will typically pull to the side with more positive camber.
If the vehicle is pulling to the right, increase camber on the left, or decrease camber on the right. Stay within the current wheel alignment specifications in the Service Information.
If, after exhausting standard Vehicle Leads/Pulls diagnostics and the above steps, a pull to the right condition still exists, adjust the front cross-camber by up to 1.0 degree.
(This is currently outside the specifications noted in the Service Information.) Evaluate the vehicle for pull on both left and right sloping road crown/camber road surfaces.
4) If cross-camber is not causing the right pull condition by being near the negative limit noted in the Service Information and the condition still exists, increase caster on the right and/or decrease caster on the left.
Stay within the current wheel alignment specifications in the Service Information. If necessary, use cross-caster down to, or as far negative as, -1.0 degree (which is currently outside the specifications noted in the Service Information).
Split the left and right caster about the current nominal caster values in the Service Information by increasing one side of the vehicle by the same amount decreased on the other side.
Again, try to remain within the wheel alignment specifications noted in the Service Information. Evaluate the vehicle for pull in both left and right sloping road crown/camber road conditions and verify normal operation.
Record the “After” wheel alignment measurements to include with the “Before” measurements in the warranty claim.
If the C7 drives straight ahead without pulling, but the steering wheel is off-angle, refer to the appropriate Service Information for a steering wheel angle condition.
Be sure to document “Before” and “After” wheel alignment measurements whenever an alignment is performed.
Diagnosis should follow these steps:
1) If the pull is minor, but still correctable, verify the condition by lightly holding the steering wheel while driving the vehicle in a straight line at 60-65 mph (97-105 km/h).
Document the direction of the pull and rate the condition by describing the amount of pull on a scale of 1–10. Do this evaluation in both left and right sloping lanes as the vehicle will follow the road crown/camber.
If the vehicle follows the road crown/camber, this is normal operation and the vehicle is performing to design intent. No repairs are necessary.
2) Do a left to right front wheel/tire assembly swap and evaluate the vehicle again. Document the results.
If the pull direction is opposite, refer to the Radial Tire Lead/Pull Correction procedure in the appropriate Service Information to isolate the tire causing the condition. Otherwise, continue to the next step if the pull in the same direction is still present.
3) Put the vehicle on an alignment rack.
Record the “Before” measurements and modify the wheel alignment to counteract the pull condition. A vehicle will typically pull to the side with more positive camber.
If the vehicle is pulling to the right, increase camber on the left, or decrease camber on the right. Stay within the current wheel alignment specifications in the Service Information.
If, after exhausting standard Vehicle Leads/Pulls diagnostics and the above steps, a pull to the right condition still exists, adjust the front cross-camber by up to 1.0 degree.
(This is currently outside the specifications noted in the Service Information.) Evaluate the vehicle for pull on both left and right sloping road crown/camber road surfaces.
4) If cross-camber is not causing the right pull condition by being near the negative limit noted in the Service Information and the condition still exists, increase caster on the right and/or decrease caster on the left.
Stay within the current wheel alignment specifications in the Service Information. If necessary, use cross-caster down to, or as far negative as, -1.0 degree (which is currently outside the specifications noted in the Service Information).
Split the left and right caster about the current nominal caster values in the Service Information by increasing one side of the vehicle by the same amount decreased on the other side.
Again, try to remain within the wheel alignment specifications noted in the Service Information. Evaluate the vehicle for pull in both left and right sloping road crown/camber road conditions and verify normal operation.
Record the “After” wheel alignment measurements to include with the “Before” measurements in the warranty claim.
Thanks All
When the car goes in on Wednesday, I will have a download of all the facts presented here to show them.
The front wheel swap has not worked, and if they tell me that the car is within spec on the first check, it is my intention to instruct them to increase or decrease caster to the outer limits of the spec that will increase a pull to the left. I'm still going to pay close attention to the rear alignment. My C5 had the rear off a bit (my fault..snow, jersey barrier), and it did weird things until it was corrected.
On the positive side, Paul Masse Chev. is only 42 miles from my house, and they have a great customer waiting area with lots of food and drink!!
Will update.
Thanks
Jack
When the car goes in on Wednesday, I will have a download of all the facts presented here to show them.
The front wheel swap has not worked, and if they tell me that the car is within spec on the first check, it is my intention to instruct them to increase or decrease caster to the outer limits of the spec that will increase a pull to the left. I'm still going to pay close attention to the rear alignment. My C5 had the rear off a bit (my fault..snow, jersey barrier), and it did weird things until it was corrected.
On the positive side, Paul Masse Chev. is only 42 miles from my house, and they have a great customer waiting area with lots of food and drink!!
Will update.
Thanks
Jack
Just got back from Paule Masse Chev. in East Providence R.I. and am happy to report there is about a 90% improvement in the tracking of the car. I could notice the difference as I was driving out their driveway from the Service Dept. to the street.
Didn't want to get my hopes up too much, until I reached the I-195 Interstate, and for once it was nice to have to apply right steering when the road curved to the right, rather then just let the car steer itself through the turn.
I was able to observe through the glass partition, the car on their new Hunter Alignment machine, and noticed that all specs were in the green, just as I feared it would be.
This led to a rather long discussion with the service manager, the technician, and the rep from Hunter who was there. Their argument was that the car was within spec, and they wouldn't change it and cause other problems.
Finally they conceded, and agreed that they would keep all specs in the green,but slanted towards adjustments that would add a little left steering to the car.
Does the car track like it is on rails?....No, but it is as good as my C5 tracked and I'm happy with that. I have to think that it's a combination of road angle, road texture, and the wide tires that is causing the constant changing in directions, but right now it's a real pleasure to see the steering wheel horizontal most of the time for a change.
My thanks to all the guys at Paul Masse for their patience and understandng to this seasoned citizen.
BTW, had my first look at a ZO6 that had just arrived in. Not for me, but interesting!!
Thanks also to all on the forum for your help and input.
Jack
Didn't want to get my hopes up too much, until I reached the I-195 Interstate, and for once it was nice to have to apply right steering when the road curved to the right, rather then just let the car steer itself through the turn.
I was able to observe through the glass partition, the car on their new Hunter Alignment machine, and noticed that all specs were in the green, just as I feared it would be.
This led to a rather long discussion with the service manager, the technician, and the rep from Hunter who was there. Their argument was that the car was within spec, and they wouldn't change it and cause other problems.
Finally they conceded, and agreed that they would keep all specs in the green,but slanted towards adjustments that would add a little left steering to the car.
Does the car track like it is on rails?....No, but it is as good as my C5 tracked and I'm happy with that. I have to think that it's a combination of road angle, road texture, and the wide tires that is causing the constant changing in directions, but right now it's a real pleasure to see the steering wheel horizontal most of the time for a change.
My thanks to all the guys at Paul Masse for their patience and understandng to this seasoned citizen.
BTW, had my first look at a ZO6 that had just arrived in. Not for me, but interesting!!
Thanks also to all on the forum for your help and input.
Jack
Jack; Did you happen to record the alignment specs. now on your car? If so, please post them.
Both BEFORE and AFTER alignment specs would be so informative!Jack; Did you happen to record the alignment specs. now on your car? If so, please post them.
Where's the rear caster number?
Hint, it won't show up on the rack readout, it's done with a separate tool attached to the rear hub. It's part of the special C7 tool kit.
Hint, it won't show up on the rack readout, it's done with a separate tool attached to the rear hub. It's part of the special C7 tool kit.
OK, let's try this for the 3rd time. Having problems with my scanner which suddenly started to scan in Adobe when I went to scan the AFTER. I'm trying a different approach for the AFTER page.Both BEFORE and AFTER alignment specs would be so informative!
You will see a difference in the REAR AFTER and BEFORE numbers even though there were no changes made. The car was rolled about a foot by hand a few times to get it on and off the front wheel turntable. Not sure how much this affected the results for the front wheels.
BEFORE 10:31 AM
AFTER 10:57 AM
Hope this is of some help.
Regards
Jack
21 - 40 of 51 Posts
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