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Related question (and mods tell me if I should have started a separate thread on this): I had my Vette in for service last month and asked the tech to look at the rear latch on the top as it made a lot of noise when stored in the back. When unlatched it was physically loose and would rattle loudly if moved from side to side.

He tightened it down as it now engages very firmly, perhaps too firmly!! I now have noises from the roof area that I never had before.

Also, I noticed that when latching or unlatching the rear latch the clear top flexes as in being pulled down and back and even the halo area seems to flex a little bit. Is this normal? Prior to being tightened, the rear latch seemed to just barely engage (and definitely did not pull the top down or in.

I've tried adjusting it myself and literally one rotation of the latch takes it from very tight to barely engaging. And by the way, the latch still makes noise when stored, so I think it needs to be replaced (its much looser than another C7 targa latch I previously tried in the dealership).
 

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Related question (and mods tell me if I should have started a separate thread on this): I had my Vette in for service last month and asked the tech to look at the rear latch on the top as it made a lot of noise when stored in the back. When unlatched it was physically loose and would rattle loudly if moved from side to side.

He tightened it down as it now engages very firmly, perhaps too firmly!! I now have noises from the roof area that I never had before.

Also, I noticed that when latching or unlatching the rear latch the clear top flexes as in being pulled down and back and even the halo area seems to flex a little bit. Is this normal? Prior to being tightened, the rear latch seemed to just barely engage (and definitely did not pull the top down or in.

I've tried adjusting it myself and literally one rotation of the latch takes it from very tight to barely engaging. And by the way, the latch still makes noise when stored, so I think it needs to be replaced (its much looser than another C7 targa latch I previously tried in the dealership).
It sounds like a combination of an initial issue with your latch and now with it being 'adjusted', over torquing the roof panel. The latch should be relatively easy to close and not resort in the panel having any distortion when doing it. When I first posted elsewhere on the panel, I pointed out that if you find the latch requires too much energy to close, it usually means that the gasket is being caught. The latch should close to rather smoothly and "pop" release when you press the button if it is correctly adjusted. It should not be making any sounds when your panel is stored in the trunk. Suggest you ask your dealer to replace the latch completely and check your gasket all the way around to ensure it has not been damaged.
 
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Will try the O ring cure. Mine pops when the temps here in So Cal get into the high 80s. Never makes noise when temps are in the 50s and 60s. Hope this cures.
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 · (Edited)
There are three/four ways to deal with a roof noise, all delineated in this long thread. To summarize

* One o-ring each side;
* Taking off the top and doing the complete underside perimeter with GM dialectic grease with teflon;
* Adding a second o-ring each side;
* Taking it to your dealer to get replacement latching mechanism -- still under warranty except for now our first-six-months of manufacture 2014's.

(Above not in priority nor recommended order...)

What is interesting is that some have found one specific method works perfectly, others a combo of methods, and other have never had an issue. Also interesting is that some has found a method that worked perfectly for a long time, then no longer worked, with a new method being needed, a repeat application of the GM grease or ? There is one other constant theme, that for those who are having problems, the higher the heat where you live, the greater propensity for them.

With the top in place, I drove down a viciously irregular, bumpy, horrible "paved" road at a spirited pace earlier this week, and not one sequeak, rattle nor thump. I had done the one o-ring and GM grease application once two years ago -- to solve not an irritant, but an almost major, near-repetitive, crashing/banging level of sound, and total quiet from it still. Others, sorrowfully, have not been as fortunate.
 

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There are three/four ways to deal with a roof noise, all delineated in this long thread. To summarize

* One o-ring each side;
* Taking off the top and doing the complete underside perimeter with GM dialectic grease with teflon;
* Adding a second o-ring each side;
* Taking it to your dealer to get replacement latching mechanism -- still under warranty except for now our first-six-months of manufacture 2014's.

(Above not in priority nor recommended order...)

What is interesting is that some have found one specific method works perfectly, others a combo of methods, and other have never had an issue. Also interesting is that some has found a method that worked perfectly for a long time, then no longer worked, with a new method being needed, a repeat application of the GM grease or ? There is one other constant theme, that for those who are having problems, the higher the heat where you live, the greater propensity for them.

With the top in place, I drove down a viciously irregular, bumpy, horrible "paved" road at a spirited pace earlier this week, and not one sequeak, rattle nor thump. I had done the one o-ring and GM grease application once two years ago -- to solve not an irritant, but an almost major, near-repetitive, crashing/banging level of sound, and total quiet from it still. Others, sorrowfully, have not been as fortunate.
On your viciously irregular drive, was it a hot day? Was it over 80 degrees? That's my definition of "hot" and that's when my top gets noisy. I bought some o rings today to see if they fix this. Thanks.
 

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Should I lube the O rings before I install them? Try one first and then if the creaks are still there add another one to each side? I'm headed on a 5 hour road trip to Watkins Glen at the end of the month and would like to have a "creak-free" trip. Thanks.
 

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I just came back from the dealer and wanted to share what I learned. In the TSB section of SRF there is a reference to part numbers and pictures showing grey replacement pins and the part numbers for replacement striker plates. I was finally able to take the car to the dealer when it was happening. The first thing they did was check for this.

C7 Roof Striker Wear indication.jpg

They check to look for that wear you see. If they see that the black paint is wearing they replace the striker plates and all black pins for a grey one.

C7 Roof Pin Replaced.jpg

This requires that they take off the sun visors, the windshield trim and the A Pillar trim.

C7 Interior Roof upper Windshield Clip possitions.jpg

Here are some photos showing two bolts that can be adjusted vertically to make the roof tighter or looser.

C7 Roof Striker Mounting 2.jpg C7 Roof Striker Mounting.jpg

I was trying not to bug the guy too much. So this is all I have.

But if someone can not find the part numbers in SRF PM me and I will send them to you. This is doable yourself if someone out there has no other choice.

I bought the O rings suggested above but did not try that prior to the dealer today. However since those striker plates adjust up and down the O Ring solution make perfect sense!
 

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Thanks for the nice detail write-up C7 *******! :eek:nthego:
 

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Great info. You have a much better dealer than mine. I'm not sure I would trust mine to make these adjustments. I'm going to see if the O rings I installed along with lubricating everything will help lessen my creaking and popping. If not, maybe I'll make the trip down to Criswell to see if they can help me. It's about a 90 minute drive but might be worth it. I have another year left on my 3 yr warranty so might wait a while. Thanks again for the info.

Added: In reviewing the TSB, I already have the lighter colored (grayish/white) pins so I guess this is why my dealer says there isn't anything else they can do. I'm hoping that my efforts to lubricate everything and add an O ring will do some good. It's approaching 100 degrees here today so I'm going to wait until it cools off to take my test drive.
 

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Thanks for the nice detail write-up C7 *******! :eek:nthego:
I figured that if nothing else the pictures on the parts would be helpful to someone.
 

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Great info. You have a much better dealer than mine. I'm not sure I would trust mine to make these adjustments. I'm going to see if the O rings I installed along with lubricating everything will help lessen my creaking and popping. If not, maybe I'll make the trip down to Criswell to see if they can help me. It's about a 90 minute drive but might be worth it. I have another year left on my 3 yr warranty so might wait a while. Thanks again for the info.

Added: In reviewing the TSB, I already have the lighter colored (grayish/white) pins so I guess this is why my dealer says there isn't anything else they can do. I'm hoping that my efforts to lubricate everything and add an O ring will do some good. It's approaching 100 degrees here today so I'm going to wait until it cools off to take my test drive.
I would not trust just any dealer as they might cause more issues and make matters worse. But with only 2 months to go on my warranty I thought would give it a shot. If this does not solve the problem I will post it here! Stay tuned.

Also they told me that they are instructed to check for the wear in the striker hole. If it is there to replace the striker plate. Now that I have seen it I would not be afraid to have them do it. Or even attempt to do it myself. It seems the only hard part is knowing where in the vertical adjustment to tighten those bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
I am glad that GM has finally come out with a TSB, new pins, et.,c for solving a roof noise problem that plagued many, many Corvettes, dating back to the first year C6's (2005). Sometimes that is the very best and the only solution.

At other times, some of the other many solutions listed in this thread work, and work well for a long, long time. Over two years and 11,000 miles ago, including driving on some horrifically bumpy pavements, I just added the o-rings (one onto each post) and used GM's specified dielectric teflon grease around the entire perimeter. Since,m we have not experienced one sound from our roof (whereas before, the roof sometimes sounded like a mini-jackhammer pounding on our heads as we went over each bump).

Glad that there are a multiple of options, especially the GM pin-replacement one!
 

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I am glad that GM has finally come out with a TSB, new pins, et.,c for solving a roof noise problem that plagued many, many Corvettes, dating back to the first year C6's (2005). Sometimes that is the very best and the only solution.

At other times, some of the other many solutions listed in this thread work, and work well for a long, long time. Over two years and 11,000 miles ago, including driving on some horrifically bumpy pavements, I just added the o-rings (one onto each post) and used GM's specified dielectric teflon grease around the entire perimeter. Since,m we have not experienced one sound from our roof (whereas before, the roof sometimes sounded like a mini-jackhammer pounding on our heads as we went over each bump).

Glad that there are a multiple of options, especially the GM pin-replacement one!
elegant

I think there is more to their solution than just the pins because they replaced the striker that the pin goes into as well. Not clear why. But they did. Maybe they changed the surface in that hole?
 

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Is this more of a transparent top issue or is everyone having this problem with the carbon fiber roof also? Knocking on wood here, but my carbon fiber roof is solid with no noise at all. Completely different story with my C4 that always squeaks except when it is off. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
On the C7's, the top squeak is an "equal opportunity visitor." We are glad that most do not experience it; now there are plenty of fix options, especially the newly designed pins.
 

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I have a transparent top which was doing the snap, crackle and pop. Last year I installed the o rings with a little grease --- no problems since then.
 
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My black C7 in Memphis heat has been an issue; I've used o rings and lube which has helped, however I must say that since I have replaced my tires to PS 4S non run flats the rattle and creaking is substantially diminished and once the AC has cooled the Vette down no more rattle. In the end, I am very pleased with the upgraded dry grip and was caught in the rain today and the wet grip is equally outstanding.
 

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RubberBurner said:
2016 Stingray, CF top, still pops like hot corn, but only on hot days. Have tried an extra o ring, no help. Have not tried lube. Anyway, I keep getting notice in my email from this thread... appears there is no solution for all. GM, ya really dropped the ball on this one, don't ya think? My dealership says I already have "upgraded" roof latching parts. So... guess I'll just wait for cooler months, or take the darned top off when I drive. I have now officially given up on finding a cure to this problem.
I/we are very sorry you are continuing to experience repetitive roof noises!

However, I am curious that while you are obviously extremely frustrated with this horrible situation (and justifiably so), yet have not taken the ten minutes it takes and the $12.87 worth of lube to attempt to attempt solve your situation. My roof sounded like a jackhammer -- repeatedly thumping over our heads in loud crashing sounds. The o-ring helped, but it was the second step of the $12.87 lube that stopped that problem (and it has remained 100% quiet in the two years since -- including over horrible roads).

I hope you try that and it works for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-1237...words=gm+part+#+12371287,+synthetic+lubricant
 

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Same problem with my CF roof. Very irrated and disappointed.
 

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I/we are very sorry you are continuing to experience repetitive roof noises!

However, I am curious that while you are obviously extremely frustrated with this horrible situation (and justifiably so), yet have not taken the ten minutes it takes and the $12.87 worth of lube to attempt to attempt solve your situation. My roof sounded like a jackhammer -- repeatedly thumping over our heads in loud crashing sounds. The o-ring helped, but it was the second step of the $12.87 lube that stopped that problem (and it has remained 100% quiet in the two years since -- including over horrible roads).

I hope you try that and it works for you.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-1237...words=gm+part+#+12371287,+synthetic+lubricant

Thanks for the link. I have just finished ordering a tube of that lube, and will try this next. Yes, I will post the results back here. This may be exactly what is needed, hopefully so. Appreciate you providing the link, made it very easy to purchase.
 
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