First, I apologize for my verbosity. This install really isn't as difficult as I make it sound. After years of writing for government contracts, I tend to be verbose, and the frustrated teacher in me wants to make sure I don't leave out anything important. If you're familiar with installing electrical accessories in cars, you can probably skim this, look at the pictures, and know what to do. If you haven't done anything like this before, hopefully I've made it clear enough for you to follow. Feel free to ask me any questions before or during your install.
To make this install much, much easier, you'll want to order a few accessories.
First, an add-a-circuit or similar device to wire the system to a switched circuit. You can get these from Amazon, or most auto stores. Make sure you get one for a micro fuse
MICRO2 FUSE-TAP Add ON DUAL CIRCUIT ADAPTER AUTO CAR TERMINAL
Next, as I mentioned above, the wires from the camera are so short they make installation more difficult, and greatly limit your mounting options for the black box. There may be other options, but these two cables will do the job. And at 10 feet will give you more than enough to mount the black box wherever you want. If you can find shorter ones, 3 to 6 feet should be plenty.
VasterCable, Digital Video Cable, Extension Cable 10 Ft
E-KYLIN 3M 10FT DC Power Extension Cable 5.5x2.1mm Plug Male to Female Adapter
WIRING THE CAMERA
First, attach the extension cables to the cables from the camera. I'd suggest taping the connections with electrical tape to ensure they don't come apart while your pulling wires around. Figure out where you want to mount the camera, and feed the wires through the grill at that spot. Now you'll need to find where you can pull the wires into the engine bay. There's a square hole to the passenger side of the radiator that will work just fine. Shine a light through the grill, then look under the hood, near the bottom of the passenger side of the radiator, and you'll see this. The silver looking bar on the left of the picture is part of the hood hinge, the gray area at the bottom right is a big, thick wire bundle.
With better light inside the engine bay, here's the hole:
And from the front of the car, looking through the grill. The brown looking strap is a wire snake coming through the hole from the engine bay.
If you don't have a wire snake, make one by straightening a coat hanger and making a small hook on the end. Feed it through the hole from the inside of the engine bay, hook the end of the cables, and pull them through into the engine bay.
WIRING THE WiFi MODULE
You'll want to wire the module to a switched circuit, so the camera and WiFi module are only powered when the car is on. There are plenty of choices, but I chose Fuse #30, Seat Fans, for a couple of reasons: There's plenty of room for the add-a-circuit, and if something fails the only thing I lose is the seat fans. Tapping into a more critical circuit strikes me as a poor choice. Pull fuse #30. Insert that fuse into the bottom fuse slot in the add-a-circuit. Insert the fuse the came with the add-a-circuit into the top slot. Do not
plug the add-a-circuit back into the fuse box, yet.
This next part is going to sound more complicated that it really is. The sheathed wire coming out of the black box includes a red wire for power, and a black wire for ground. The easiest place to attach the ground wire is to a stud mounted forward of the alternator (pictured below). You have a couple of choices here. You could split the sheath that covers the two wires, and connect the black wire directly to this stud, and run only the red wire into the fuse box. Or you can run both wires into the fuse box, and run the ground back out. I have another modification that has a ground wire running out of the fuse box, so I chose to run both the red and black wires into the fuse box, and connect to that pre-existing ground.
I would recommend running the sheathed cable, with both wires inside, into the fuse box, as the outer sheath offers some protection to the very thin wires inside.
However you run the ground wire, you'll need to attach a ring terminal to the end of it to put over the grounding stud.
Make sure you get one with a large enough hole to fit over the stud. DO NOT try to remove the nut that's already on the stud. Simply place the ring terminal on top, and apply another nut on top of that.
Either way, you'll need to run the power wire into the fuse box. I ran the wires from the black box along the hood release cable along the top of the passenger side fender, and used small wire ties to attach the wire to that cable, then ran them into the back side of the fuse box. Don't worry, the fuse box lid will still close and not damage the wires (at least if you leave the sheath in place). Now attach the red wire from the black box to the wire from the add-a circuit. You can use the crimp connector already provided. I prefer posi-tap connectors, so I cut the crimp connector off and substituted one of those. Finally, plug the add-a-circuit into the empty fuse #30 slot.
Here is the completed wiring, with the add-a-circuit inserted (white arrow). The red arrow points to the posi-tap connectors. The red one connects the add-a-circuit output to the red wire from the WiFi box. The orange one connects the ground wire from the WiFi box to the existing ground connection from another mod. Ignore the red, blue and black wires at the top of the photo.
Select a mounting location for the black box and wire tie the excess wires neatly in place. Clean the mounting surface of both the grill and the camera, then mount the camera to the grill using the supplied double sided tape.