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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1st, download their PDF directions from this list for the base car:

Installation Instructions

really just wanted to put up the toollist, things you will need:
1. 10 MM long socket for plenum removal
2. 13 MM short socket for the catch can holder bolt
3. something to pry the wiring harness loose from the plenum
4. needle nose to remove harness connector - blue slide lock first, scissors to cut tubing
5. Red loctite on the bolts for the can bracket

that's it...very simple for the base can...but yeah, the plenum has to come off for a good solid mount of the tubing....

I bought the "better" kit from a Z51 friend and he did not use it, so I kept it...apparently there is a way to use the "clean air separator" used for the wet sump tank on a base car, Steve at Elite sending schematic tomorrow so I'll up date this when I get it.

on a scale of one to 10 - 10 being easy, this is 8 or 9...this is a high quality kit...hood open to hood close - 20-25 min...
 

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Glen e,

Thanks for the great details. I am close to buying the best Elite can but I've been nervous about installing myself. Based on your experience it sounds like something I can handle.

Thanks,
booie
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update on installing clean oil sep on a base car: replace oil cap with their clean air cap. Connect nipple from cap to air box nipple used just like z51 install, cap off with black nipple cap the other end on front pass side of engine. Study the z51 install and you can see what they are saying. Pics later on this.
 

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If getting the Elite system make SURE to get the "best" as it will be the E2 can that is one of the top 4 on the market and have the proper checkvalves and cleanside separator.
 

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Update on installing clean oil sep on a base car: replace oil cap with their clean air cap. Connect nipple from cap to air box nipple used just like z51 install, cap off with black nipple cap the other end on front pass side of engine. Study the z51 install and you can see what they are saying. Pics later on this.
Glen...what is the reason to replace the oil cap of a wet-sump engine with the clean air cap? The oil cap on the rocker cover of the wet-sump seals that rocker cover to function as part of the PCV system. There will be a lot of oil splashed against the oil cap and there is potential that the clean air cap will allow a lot of oil to pass that normally stays inside the rocker cover to drain back to the crankcase. I can understand the function of the clean air cap on the reservoir of the dry-sump as it captures oil that is burped in certain situations, but the oil cap on the wet-sump has an entirely different function.
 

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It has to do with the inability of the PCV system to evacuate gasses at WOT then there is no vacuum at the intake port the PCV system uses to draw gasses out of the crankcase. When that occurs excessive pressure may build up in the crankcase and the clean side system allows that pressure to exit without allowing liquid oil to get pushed out.


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Update on installing clean oil sep on a base car: replace oil cap with their clean air cap. Connect nipple from cap to air box nipple used just like z51 install, cap off with black nipple cap the other end on front pass side of engine. Study the z51 install and you can see what they are saying. Pics later on this.
Glen.

Like to see some pictures thanks.

Joe


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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)

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After much research into the various air-oil separators on the market, weighing their potential benefits and risks, I decided to purchase an Elite "good" can in black (which matches the engine compartment).

The Elite can has the best pedigree and proven performance of any of the cans on the market, IMHO. It literally "sells itself", and as I was installing it I reflected on the fact that this could be a GM accessory, given that it fits so well into the engine bay.
IMG_20140606_102650.jpg


Here's another image for reference. Pardon the dust on the engine (it's actually pollen - one of the hazards of life in Indiana). It's since been cleaned and looks pristine now - trust me. :rolleyes:
IMG_20140606_102718.jpg

Installation, as has been noted by many, is very pleasant and simple ( Elite Installation Instructions ), but there are a couple things worth mentioning. Use some lock tight on the two can bracket screws as well as a small amount on the mounting bolt in the engine compartment (this is a grounded connection). Use teflon tape on the can's hose connector fittings. Lubricate the new hoses with some motor oil, so that they will slide onto the fittings easily. I use a Q-tip dipped in oil and then liberally apply oil to the ID of the new hoses.

To remove the stock PCV hose, push the grey button on the quick-connect fittings while pulling gently, and they will "pop" off. After removing the stock hose, use the quick-connects on the new catch can hoses. One of the quick connects is molded at an angle to prevent the stock hose from kinking, and I recommend you use it to ensure the new hose doesn't "ovalize" or kink and restrict flow. The quick connects are circled in red.

hose-connections.jpg

The side engine covers are a convenient snap-fit design. Lift the cover at the points shown to "pop" the rubber connectors off, and the gently lift the cover out of place. I also removed the four bolts holding the central cover in place. The center engine cover also has connections to the ignition system wiring harness - I didn't mess with these connections, but by removing the four bolts the cover can be moved around by an inch or two which makes hose access a bit easier.


I installed the can at 400 miles on the odometer (I'm at 550 now). I'll check it when the odometer reaches 1000 miles, and then at 1000 mile intervals.

UPDATE: I noticed a very detailed installation description by member Jerry U: http://netwelding.com/Catch_Can.pdf. Jerry has a lot of great "how to" PDFs on his site!
 

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After all the hate and arguing, why the heck are you installing a catchcan as you have argued and attacked non stop on there being no need for one? And you really need the Elite "Best" can with cleanside to address the issue. The Elite standard can is great for non-DI engines, but only the E2 will stop most of the oil preventing the issues.....Also, I would like to see what Elite would say if you asked them if I know what I am talking about....can you ask that and post it?
 

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My background is in electronics s00000---please tell me what and why I should install a catch can? cutnout aka Charlie
 

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After all the hate and arguing, why the heck are you installing a catchcan as you have argued and attacked non stop on there being no need for one? And you really need the Elite "Best" can with cleanside to address the issue. The Elite standard can is great for non-DI engines, but only the E2 will stop most of the oil preventing the issues.....Also, I would like to see what Elite would say if you asked them if I know what I am talking about....can you ask that and post it?
:eek:
 

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Glen e, I read through most of the other catch can thread and I too am surprised at your change of heart regarding a catch can. What happened with your car that caused you to change your mind? Other than an obvious dislike for Tunerboost, what was your deciding factor between the Elite and RX cans? Btw, I had the same Elite can on my Camaro and it always had a lot of oil in it
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Glen e, I read through most of the other catch can thread and I too am surprised at your change of heart regarding a catch can. What happened with your car that caused you to change your mind?
I think I have explained it:

I believe the for the type of driving I do, it is not necessary, and the engine can absorb the 1-2 tsp's I was getting per 1000 miles. I also like the clean look of no plumbing. I agree with the Criswell article. OK with me if you feel differently....
 

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I didn't beat on my LS3 Camaro but the Elite can collected a heck of a lot more than a few tablespoons. I'd poor out close to a 1/4 cup every month or so
 
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