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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Long, but this is the car we performed the manual intake valve cleaning on as well.

We will have a separate step by step video showing how to perform this as well coming up soon.




Also, those wanting to order, the website rework is not complete yet so call direct please: 941-721-1826 or email us at: [email protected]
 

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at 5:16 you say Z52 wet sump? what is that? Also when you drilled that 3/8 hole into the air bridge is there a plastic shaving probably inside now that will get sucked into the air intake? If I was drilling that hole I would do it to the air bridge on my work bench? Just a thought....
 

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An easy to follow video Tracy. Thank you. However I would suggest several edits to make it more accurate: you twice refer to the Z51 as a Wet Sump system when it is a Dry Sump system; you say you normally on average find 1/2 quart or more of oil in the air bridge, yet the one you show certainly did not have anywhere near 16 ounces or more of oil in it that we saw; you say there was quite a bit of oil in the throttle body yet only show two small spots on the paper toweling you use to wipe it clean. This in a car that the owner stated he drives pretty hard. Finally since the purpose of your video is designed to be preventative I would suggest your technique of drilling the hole in the air bridge while it is connected to the engine and not then removing the air bridge to ensure there are no plastic shavings left in the air bridge is very counter logical and potentially quite harmful to the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
at 5:16 you say Z52 wet sump? what is that? Also when you drilled that 3/8 hole into the air bridge is there a plastic shaving probably inside now that will get sucked into the air intake? If I was drilling that hole I would do it to the air bridge on my work bench? Just a thought....
There are no plastic shavings, it is a rubber coupler and a small amount come out, and only a minute amount go in and would be impossible to damage anything....but still a good suggestion. Yes, I mistakenly refer between wet and dry sump as wanted to make the video work for both. Dipping the drill bit in a bit of grease is the way to prevent any if it was a metal piece or some material that could cause damage. But I think if any saw what was ingested at first start-up at the plant they would be horrified to see the amount of debris present, all that goes through with no damage caused.

The GM master parts diagram database refers to the wetsump as Z52 in the diagrams, and the dry sump as Z51. So my error there....will see if the media guy can edit it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh, and I should add in pictures showing the average amount drained from the airbridge and what is in the intake manifold you can only reach a bare minimum. The car owner can attest to how much was saturated in there.





And included the members posts here showing them pour 1/2 qt plus out of their air bridge. I was pointing out that this is the first dry sump one we had seen without a mess of oil in it. When tipped up though we did find both the depression sumps molded in below the cleanside barbs were nearly full. I wanted to point out that contrary to all we had seen in the past, this one had NO oil on the MAF and the air bridge was not saturated.
 

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Tracy,

The video emphasizes the oil in the air bridge, but the catch can as installed in the video does not address that oil. That requires the clean side separator to be added to the oil reservoir for that source of oil, unless it is addressed by lowering the oil level in the reservoir. In other words, the solution as demonstrated in the video does not match the problem stated at the beginning of the video.
 

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Sometimes people do more harm than good posting poorly executed videos. Case in point, using a massively oversized adjustable wrench to tighten the AN fittings............


Sent from my iPad using Corvette Stingray Forum
 

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The video needs to show the job through to completion. One expecting the instruction to be comprehensive will leave the clean air line from the air bridge to the oil reservoir off as instructed by the video and make a mess in the engine compartment along with disrupting the MAF metered intake air. Incomplete installation instruction can erode confidence in the product.

I do like the mounting bracket taking advantage of a threaded mounting hole on the block. Mounting on the frame and not allowing for engine movement can stress or pull off the hoses.

I do not see the benefit of using AN fittings only to convert to a barb an inch or so later. May as well use barbs on the catch can.
 

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I do not see the benefit of using AN fittings only to convert to a barb an inch or so later. May as well use barbs on the catch can.
I ordered the Elite Engineering can with the AN fittings and hoses finishers just because I think it gives it a "cleaner" more finished appearance. I agree that from a function standpoint since the other end is not AN there is not much actual benefit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Tracy,

The video emphasizes the oil in the air bridge, but the catch can as installed in the video does not address that oil. That requires the clean side separator to be added to the oil reservoir for that source of oil, unless it is addressed by lowering the oil level in the reservoir. In other words, the solution as demonstrated in the video does not match the problem stated at the beginning of the video.
The clean side addresses this as well as the secondary outlet adding evacuation when at high throttle. The video does need some major editing I agree. Sharing all these comments with the media guy.

Sometimes people do more harm than good posting poorly executed videos. Case in point, using a massively oversized adjustable wrench to tighten the AN fittings............


Sent from my iPad using Corvette Stingray Forum
Don't know how to reply to this one...yes, a small wrench would have looked better I agree, and the AN fittings only gently tighten.

The video needs to show the job through to completion. One expecting the instruction to be comprehensive will leave the clean air line from the air bridge to the oil reservoir off as instructed by the video and make a mess in the engine compartment along with disrupting the MAF metered intake air. Incomplete installation instruction can erode confidence in the product.

I do like the mounting bracket taking advantage of a threaded mounting hole on the block. Mounting on the frame and not allowing for engine movement can stress or pull off the hoses.

I do not see the benefit of using AN fittings only to convert to a barb an inch or so later. May as well use barbs on the catch can.
Were redesigning the can so AN fittings can be on all 3 ports, not just the outer ones.
 

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Tracey, with the clean side separator installed, how easy is it to add oil to the dry sump tank?
 

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Tracey, with the clean side separator installed, how easy is it to add oil to the dry sump tank?

I installed the RX clean side separator and found that I don't have to do anything different than the stock oil cap. It is threaded the same. 1/4 turn counter clockwise to take it off and the reverse to put it on. Didn't even have to disconnect the hose.

Michael
 
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