I bought it in Charlotte NC, but the dealership here in Wilmington is trying to fix it. What year is your C7?

 

RedHot is a 2014 MY, picked up at NCM in October 2013.

 

Hey- I have a questions about the underneath of the car. I have a 2014 Stingray and have had a couple times where when I turn at speed I feel and hear some odd rattling from what feels like the front drive train area. The reason I ask about what it looks like underneath is this, I live on a dirt road (horrible I know) and my ass of a neighbor builds what he calls speed bumps along the first 1/8 of a mile. When he dose this fresh, I end up scrapping on them. No matter how slow I go over them. They are gravel mind you so over time they flatten out. But I am wondering if there are ample brush guards underneath to keep from picking up any rocks? Of course I could be totally off track here and there could be some newbie issue I am unaware of. The car has about 20,000 miles on it and I am new to Corvettes. The noise/feeling happens randomly and not right after getting onto the pavement.

 

Sebrina, welcome to the forum. If you crawl under our C7 or look at it up on a lift, you will see that there are a number of brush guards underneath. If I had to guess, it sounds like you are getting some gravel underneath the guards as you go over these "speed bumps". The only thing that will get rid of that would be to get underneath and pop them off to get out the gravel. It doesn't sound like a mechanical issue.

 

C7's are notorious for front end noises and vibrations when turning at slow speed at near full lock of the steering wheel. This is "normal", according to Chevrolet (high caster setting(?) makes the front end want to have a 'hop' as it trys to 'push').

 

I have a 2016 Z51 Coupe it has happened twice in 500 miles. Start car wait a minute or two to get everything circulating put in reverse nothing, go to neutral than drive and nothing happens... go to reverse again and 3 seconds than Bang... a big bank like gears and U joint noise.... loud noise no throttle idling brake on. Had the car 3 weeks dealer blows me off won't even look at it. Not a GM dealer but a used car dealer. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Sorry to read of your issues. Suggest you review the relevant service bulletins https://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/tsb-recalls/14064-going-summary-tsbs-model-year.html#post184236 and then take your Z51 to a Chevrolet dealer to have them review the issue.

 

The car is under warranty take it to a Chevy dealer, Boardwalk or Able or a good dealer near you.
If they can't fix it there is always the Lemon law.

 

Hey all just bought a 14 z51 with 8k on it. I love look/power/handing it has stock I'm blown away. I feel like it has a slight miss fire at Idle the tack is not steady but I does not really move off 600, and its lot more shackyer than what I would have thought it would be at idle. It's a m7 and the shifter is moving around but not crazy. Is all of this normal? It sounds if it has just a slight miss fire, I have a friend that's ase Mechanic he agreed it seems to have a slight miss too but also said his 03 caddy witch I know has a ls1 not a lt1 has done the same since new. Just looking for some input. Thanks sorry if I posted in wrong Section fill free to move

 

Welcome to our forum and congrats on your Z51 purchase. You might find the following thread useful https://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/general-discussion/7477-rough-idle-2.html. nthego:

 

Thanks for the link! I read all that and it had a few other links and I read all them, a guy with s/n chip posted one but I can't get it to open/ like it's dead or moved any one know how to find it? I seams most people r saying it normal for a ruff and shaky idle. I just feel like it would idle smoother I can hear and feel a slight miss fire. Car has 8k, tach is never still but I'm only talking about a 50rpm hiccup it's not even 100rpm change. Dose not seam to do it driving just at idal. Thanks for the help

 

I posted in that thread and it sounds like all is normal thanks for the help guys. I just like to play it safe then be sorry

 

Hello everyone I have a 2015 Stingray recently i have been having problems with the A/C one day I switched the vent settings from blowing directly to me to the setting where it blows to your face and feet area. Now it seems to be stuck there and no matter if I try switching to different settings it is just stuck there. I tried pulling all the fuses out related to the A/C and they were ok none were blown, I also disconnected the battery for 30 minutes to see if it would reset everything but nothing worked. Has anyone else experienced any troubles like this? If so how was it resolved. I plan to take it to the dealer in a couple of weeks to get it looked at but I thought I would first try the forum. Other than that the car has been awesome and have enjoyed it so far. Thank you all.

 

Hi there. So I have a '14 convertible C7 that I bought used in '16. It now has about 13k miles, and to date has not had any problems.. Until today.. I was running errands, and at one point decided to drop the top.. Went into a grocery store, came back out, opened the trunk, put bags in,, no problem.. When I got home, the trunk would not open via dash button, remote, or rear button.. I tried to put the top up, and an notice popped up saying I needed to close the trunk before the roof would close... The trunk was closed!!!. I had to use my key to open the trunk and get my stuff out, but now I am stuck with the top down, and it thinks the trunk is not closed... Does anyone know where the trunk closed sensor is, or has anyone seen and dealt with this problem?? Thanks, Chris

 

Welcome to our forum cruff. Sorry you are having Vert top/trunk issues. I anticipate one or more of our Vert owners will be able to help you out shortly.

 

Thanks!.. Is this the best place to post a question/issue like this one??

 

Cruff, if you haven’t done so already, check the storage flap in the trunk to make sure it’s securely seated against the plastic button clips on either side. That’s the location of the interlocks that permit the top to retract. If the flap is not seated firmly, I’ve had it fail to cycle the top down.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

I have a 2016 Z51 Coupe and after buying it I had a problem with going into reverse. This happened twice and is a big safety issue... Put in reverse nothing happens, put in park and reserve again and it slams into gear so hard I thought it took out the gear box, first time. Fine for a couple of weeks than it did it again in my garage. Let it warm up and put in reverse nothing happened, went to drive nothing, back to park and into reverse... it slammed into gear so hard all I could hear was gears and u joints...but it scared the hell out of me doing it, I might have eased up on the brake when went into gear and it almost slammed into my 2018 truck. Brought it to where I bought the car they brought it to a GMC / Chevrolet dealer with Corvette tech person. They flushed oil as if it had a surge not a going into gear problem. After they did it I did about 900 miles did not have a problem and stored it for Winter. I continually think about my first start after storage this year because I have big questions if it has been fixed which I feel it may not have been... I read stuff on it and its like a module and computer adjustment or internal transmission problem. That means take half the car apart. This is a major safety issue as far as I'm concerned and will treat it as so if it survives another slamming into gear.

 

I am also new to the forum and my name is Jonson Archer
I was asked to re post this to get in the correct Thread.
Picked up my LT2 convertible C7 Dec 30. Drove it about a hour and lost voice control button on steering wheel blue tooth to my phone makes a loud clicking noise and drops my cell call... Navigation voice makes a loud clicking noise also when giving turn commands.. XM/FM radio stops working and seems to reboot about every 10 min. Random reboots to corvette screen. Sometimes the clock time changes back to 12:XX and then goes back to the correct time Dealer told me to remove all HD radio stations and try... turn off HD setting It made no changes ... They said Chevrolet says its a software problem.. And they are looking for a fix ... No resolution date provided... So my troubleshooting past tells me this could be a combo hardware software problem and they have been messing with it for the past 3 months... I will be on the phone Monday calling GM and expecting some one to give me something other than it's a software problem. I will try to update with anything I get back from Chevrolet

 

Thank you for sharing this info and the video. They will be helpful to many. Hopefully your car is trouble free from now on.

 

Well on 2nd day of just transmission flush as stated by gm still no car

 

Hey Guys,

I am new to the Corvette Forum:

I drive a 2014 C7 (3LT Z51) with about 50,000 miles on it, and I keep hearing an internal engine noise / clatter like an "engine lifter" or "rockers" rattling. I'm told that on the Corvettes that a little rattling is normal, but mine it is very annoying and seems to be louder than reasonable. My power train warranty expires on July 31, and I'm afraid that it may be something internal going on. I took it into the dealership today, and they said it was my Driver Belt Tensioner, which I highly doubted, but I allowed them to replace it, but the car is still making the same sound / noise. I have ruled out it being the Exhaust Baffles, which also make awkward sounds as well.

Please advise / help

Thanks,

Deran

 

Post a link to a video with the noise.

Search the forum for sound clips with normal noise from the LT1 engine.

 

Welcome to our forum Deran. Your first post has been moved to this thread. Sorry to read of the issues you are experiencing. Rodney's suggestion is spot on. Have a passenger video tape the sound and post it here.

 

Hello guys...I have a 3300 model 1051 Corvette battery charger for my 2016 Corvette. I noticed earlier that the middle top indicator ( the charging indicator) was blinking red. No other top indicators were lit . I unplugged it , and reinstalled it. The same indicator was solid red. I started up my car...voltage was fine with no signs of a low battery. My car is 4 months shy of 4 years old. Do you think my battery is bad? I read the owners manual, and there is no explanation for just this one red light.

 

I have the same charger. Mine started to blink like that and it was because the plug was loose in the socket. I think I may need to replace the socket at some point?

 

I have an interesting issue that's ongoing so we'll see what happens

I have a 2014 C7 A6 Z51 with 46k miles on it.
I like many people would get the "Service Rear Axle" warning and I finally just replaced the battery.

Then one day I got a "Rear Axle System Off" warning and it kept coming on if I started the car.

Took my car in to the dealer, had some usual dealer issues but ultimately it came down to them saying the differential was overfilled substantially and it had many metal shavings. They could try to flush it and see what happens.
Funny, because at 25k miles my vehicle had the rear diff replaced due to being delivered low on fluid. At 30k it had the diff controller replaced. And now I'm outside of my warranty and 3 months outside of those repair warranties without any help.

Currently I have a case with GM for assistance. It's funny that I have paperwork saying "Service Rear Axle Warning Came On" and they said it was nothing, fluid levels fine, etc from the diff being replaced and then the controller still until now.

Since my intial visit it has been over 1 month. With the Chevy Assistance Team I have been escalated 3 times and currently they are checking with the regional manager to see what he can offer.

While I'm shortly outside of my warranty and part warranty I do qualify for the 100% Goodwill (Ex-GM Service Manager) so it's especially annoying I'm missing the good weather with my Corvette when my track rat 321k mile S2000 is handling +180whp through a notoriously weak differential for 200k that I have had it.

 

That should be part of the drivetrain. That warranty is longer than 3 years / 36 months.

 

Live Fast welcome to our forum. Sorry to read of your issues. Hope they get resolved soon.

 

Thank you, I hope so too.

That should be part of the drivetrain. That warranty is longer than 3 years / 36 months.

The 2014-2015 did get a 5 year / 100k drivetrain warranty. However I'm out by time rather than mileage. By 11 months exactly.
Interestingly enough the differential was replaced over 2 years and 3 months ago due to the low fluid and it's outside of that repair warranty.

However it being majorly overfilled, the vehicle being low mileage, and me being juuuust outside of warranty does indicate I should get some assistance. Funny enough the dealership they want me to use is the one that did the recall/replacement which is a 6 hour drive away and they don't want to pay for a flat bed... Oh well lets see.

And this is my second 2014. My last one was totalled by being hit while parked and it was at 88k miles.

Update:

So now it's been 1 month since my vehicle was diagnosed with a bad differential and I contacted the customer assistance team. After TONS of back and forth, 4 "escalations" I was finally told my the rep she got an email saying the regional rep denied any assistance with no clarification explainations or escalation. Thankfully the Service Manager was at the dealership and I was on the way there to speak with him so I had them both on the phone.

Now I have it arranged to see a regional representative in person about the issue. The customer assistance team really is awful to go through and I have not been able to drive my vehicle for a full month.

To make matters worse I do have a 1999 with a crate motor ordered (LS3), three diesel work trucks recently purchased, and a 1965 factory restored.

Guess they really don't want me to go through with a C8

 

BAD Infotainment Screen on 2014 Stingray

Good thing I bought the GMPP extended warranty!

My infotainment screen went totally black one day in June when I started the car after lunch. It had been parked outside a restaurant on a hot day here in Raleigh, NC. Although the screen was black, all the non-visible buttons worked, if I remembered where they were. The next day the screen was fine. Then it happened again a few days later. Then OK, then bad, etc.

I finally figured out that lowering and raising the screen, would cause the problem to return, so I made an appointment at the local dealer here in Raleigh I take all my cars to, and the service advisor assured me they knew exactly what it was and how to fix it. Two days after I dropped it off, they called me and I picked up the car and sure enough, it was fine. Until I drove down the road a few miles and lowered the screen to put away my sunglasses. That did it! Black screen, although it alternated between flickering, or all black, or sometimes it was even working. Seems like this dealer did NOT exactly test the unit very well.

So I called to tell then it was NOT fixed and made a second appointment. Now it's been in for exactly one week "waiting for parts." Today they called to say the screen is backordered and won't be in until early October, at least another two weeks to wait. So "please come back and get your car so you can keep it garaged at your house, and we'll call you when the screen comes in".

They've been very courteous, I asked and got loaners both times, but I think this is total BS. Yes, they either reset or replaced my original screen, because all the stations and destinations were gone. So somebody there does not know what is happening with those screens. Or they do not know how to change the connectors, the cable, whatever.

I love this car (less than 11,000 miles on it), but this experience has left a really bad taste. It will be at least 5 weeks before it gets fixed.

Any suggestions? :nightmare: :nightmare:

Thanks.

 

Good thing I bought the GMPP extended warranty!

My infotainment screen went totally black one day in June when I started the car after lunch. It had been parked outside a restaurant on a hot day here in Raleigh, NC. Although the screen was black, all the non-visible buttons worked, if I remembered where they were. The next day the screen was fine. Then it happened again a few days later. Then OK, then bad, etc.

I finally figured out that lowering and raising the screen, would cause the problem to return, so I made an appointment at the local dealer here in Raleigh I take all my cars to, and the service advisor assured me they knew exactly what it was and how to fix it. Two days after I dropped it off, they called me and I picked up the car and sure enough, it was fine. Until I drove down the road a few miles and lowered the screen to put away my sunglasses. That did it! Black screen, although it alternated between flickering, or all black, or sometimes it was even working. Seems like this dealer did NOT exactly test the unit very well.

So I called to tell then it was NOT fixed and made a second appointment. Now it's been in for exactly one week "waiting for parts." Today they called to say the screen is backordered and won't be in until early October, at least another two weeks to wait. So "please come back and get your car so you can keep it garaged at your house, and we'll call you when the screen comes in".

They've been very courteous, I asked and got loaners both times, but I think this is total BS. Yes, they either reset or replaced my original screen, because all the stations and destinations were gone. So somebody there does not know what is happening with those screens. Or they do not know how to change the connectors, the cable, whatever.

I love this car (less than 11,000 miles on it), but this experience has left a really bad taste. It will be at least 5 weeks before it gets fixed.

Any suggestions? :nightmare: :nightmare:

Thanks.

They probably tried the appropriate software updates and that is what lost your stations and destinations. A number of us had our info screens experience similar problems within a few years of ownership. The required procedure, if I recall correctly, was that before the unit could be physically replaced, the software update had to be tried. In some cases that fixed the problem but in others, like mine, it then went in for the unit replacement. That is a major task, with a fair amount of the dash removed, etc. But once it is done, the issue has not returned in my case or in any other member's that I can recall where they had the replacement. If you use the search function and put in Infotainment Screen Replacement, you will find a number of threads going back several years.
Finally, unfortunately, the ongoing strike is probably going to further delay your dealer receiving the replacement unit.