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Honestly you may have to try and adjust how you are getting in or perhaps out of the car. I have noticed that if I do not make a concentrated effort to avoid dragging my body across the seat bolsters I drag my body across them. That will just wear on them over time. You didn't mention which type seats you have . Mine are the competition seats and it's just the nature of the car and the seat. Especially if you can't get the door swung all the way open and you are trying to squeeze into a half open door.
I also added a terry cloth cover to mine and try to make sure the side bolsters are protected when i do have to squeeze in.
Mine is base line Stingray. Nothing special. I am really disappointed in the way the car is made with some really cheap parts. It's just the way things are done now. Still love the car. Went to a show today and got lots of compliments on it.
 

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Yep. Certainly get that. I've owned a lot of automobiles in my lifetime and my C7 stands out by quite a bit in all round smiles per gallon. I think most would say if you consider the price point of these cars and what you get it's a bargain.
Even with all that it's still mass produced and there will be some failures or complaint of parts failure. Gives us an excuse to modify and improve them and make them better .
I'm guessing if this is your first Corvette it won't be your last.
Happy motoring.
 

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BAD Infotainment Screen on 2014 Stingray

Good thing I bought the GMPP extended warranty!

My infotainment screen went totally black one day in June when I started the car after lunch. It had been parked outside a restaurant on a hot day here in Raleigh, NC. Although the screen was black, all the non-visible buttons worked, if I remembered where they were. The next day the screen was fine. Then it happened again a few days later. Then OK, then bad, etc.

I finally figured out that lowering and raising the screen, would cause the problem to return, so I made an appointment at the local dealer here in Raleigh I take all my cars to, and the service advisor assured me they knew exactly what it was and how to fix it. Two days after I dropped it off, they called me and I picked up the car and sure enough, it was fine. Until I drove down the road a few miles and lowered the screen to put away my sunglasses. That did it! Black screen, although it alternated between flickering, or all black, or sometimes it was even working. Seems like this dealer did NOT exactly test the unit very well.

So I called to tell then it was NOT fixed and made a second appointment. Now it's been in for exactly one week "waiting for parts." Today they called to say the screen is backordered and won't be in until early October, at least another two weeks to wait. So "please come back and get your car so you can keep it garaged at your house, and we'll call you when the screen comes in".

They've been very courteous, I asked and got loaners both times, but I think this is total BS. Yes, they either reset or replaced my original screen, because all the stations and destinations were gone. So somebody there does not know what is happening with those screens. Or they do not know how to change the connectors, the cable, whatever.

I love this car (less than 11,000 miles on it), but this experience has left a really bad taste. It will be at least 5 weeks before it gets fixed.

Any suggestions? :nightmare: :nightmare:

Thanks.
A follow up... FIXED!!
The original dealer in NW Raleigh failed to fix it twice, then told me to bring it in a third time. Then they postponed the third appt until a week later "because we are so busy" hoping I'd give up on them altogether. I did bring it in a third time and again they said it was fixed, but it was not at all. Like "fake news" in politics.

I called the Chevrolet Customer Service Number and (to shorten the story) they told me to take it to another dealer. I went to the dealer just south of Raleigh (BIG Corvette seller, but almost an hour away) and sure enough, THEY FIXED IT and charged the GMPP just two hours, although I had to wait an extra day for parts to arrive. They even cleaned up sloppy mounting of some of the fascia by the first dealer.

I am now finally a happy Chevrolet customer again!
 

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JerseyHiker, glad to read that you finally got it resolved with the help of Chev Customer Service and a new dealer!
 

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Just an update to date on some glitches with my 2015 C7. In Sept/ October I had it in for the delayed engagement issue which I unknowingly had. Unfortunately the strike happened the next week and after some back and forth and 32 days I picked my car up with a GM re-manufactured transmission and torque converter. No issues for last 3 months and about 250 miles but last week I had it out and decided to lower the top. During the process the process just stopped and the top would not go up or down. Limped her in to the closet dealer and they were not able to do anything as a "quick" fix but while at the dealer the car started throwing codes regarding the rear axle and transmission. I tried to move the car from the techs stall to the drive up and was unable to open doors forcing me to use the emergency release to exit the car. Dealer said it was having some sort of transmission failure and they would have to investigate the issue with the convertible top. I should mention this automobile has been bullet proof prior to realizing I had delayed engagement and leaving it with the dealer for repair per the TSB.
I admit i had real concerns leaving it for repair but since I am about 6 months away from loosing my drive train warranty i trusted them and turned the car over to them.

So they have the car for a week now. The top has been diagnosed as a wiring harness under the rear hatch which includes the switch for the top. Apparently a short of some sort. Harness ordered with a week delivery time. Transmission specialist has tried to investigate the transmission codes being thrown . Today i was advised the codes have all cleared and it appears no issues with the transmission or T/C. Although the battery is original and I have told them I'm, okay replacing it two separate dealers have checked the battery and told me there is no issue with the battery and I'm wasting my money replacing a perfectly good battery. So I will continue to use the original battery a bit longer as it is always on the smart charger when not driven and it is not unusual for me to get 6-8 years out of a battery before changing them out as a "just in case" situation before a trip away from home. All my vehicles are maintained on trickle smart chargers when ever they are parked at home.
Hopefully the wiring harness will be installed next week and I will have ho further issues and get her home where she belongs. Although I have been disappointed before so we will see next week when she is all back together how she operates.
Crossed fingers ...
 

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Thanks for the update 15snow-ray and we'll keep our collective fingers crossed as well.:)
 

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Just an update to date on some glitches with my 2015 C7. In Sept/ October I had it in for the delayed engagement issue which I unknowingly had. Unfortunately the strike happened the next week and after some back and forth and 32 days I picked my car up with a GM re-manufactured transmission and torque converter. No issues for last 3 months and about 250 miles but last week I had it out and decided to lower the top. During the process the process just stopped and the top would not go up or down. Limped her in to the closet dealer and they were not able to do anything as a "quick" fix but while at the dealer the car started throwing codes regarding the rear axle and transmission. I tried to move the car from the techs stall to the drive up and was unable to open doors forcing me to use the emergency release to exit the car. Dealer said it was having some sort of transmission failure and they would have to investigate the issue with the convertible top. I should mention this automobile has been bullet proof prior to realizing I had delayed engagement and leaving it with the dealer for repair per the TSB.
I admit i had real concerns leaving it for repair but since I am about 6 months away from loosing my drive train warranty i trusted them and turned the car over to them.

So they have the car for a week now. The top has been diagnosed as a wiring harness under the rear hatch which includes the switch for the top. Apparently a short of some sort. Harness ordered with a week delivery time. Transmission specialist has tried to investigate the transmission codes being thrown . Today i was advised the codes have all cleared and it appears no issues with the transmission or T/C. Although the battery is original and I have told them I'm, okay replacing it two separate dealers have checked the battery and told me there is no issue with the battery and I'm wasting my money replacing a perfectly good battery. So I will continue to use the original battery a bit longer as it is always on the smart charger when not driven and it is not unusual for me to get 6-8 years out of a battery before changing them out as a "just in case" situation before a trip away from home. All my vehicles are maintained on trickle smart chargers when ever they are parked at home.
Hopefully the wiring harness will be installed next week and I will have ho further issues and get her home where she belongs. Although I have been disappointed before so we will see next week when she is all back together how she operates.
Crossed fingers ...
Here are my $0.02 (or maybe it is not even worth that).

I kept my car (built in Feb. 2016) on a battery tender. I was really careful with it, to try to make it last as long as possible.

Nevertheless, my battery died in about 3 and a half years.

I can't believe that all of your various troubles all just magically started at the same time and are unrelated.

I would almost be willing to bet that your wiring harness is fine, and that all you need is a battery to take care of everything.

But, what do I know? I am some shade tree observer who has a deep distrust of most service departments.
 

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[
Here are my $0.02 (or maybe it is not even worth that).

I kept my car (built in Feb. 2016) on a battery tender. I was really careful with it, to try to make it last as long as possible.

Nevertheless, my battery died in about 3 and a half years.

I can't believe that all of your various troubles all just magically started at the same time and are unrelated.

I would almost be willing to bet that your wiring harness is fine, and that all you need is a battery to take care of everything.

But, what do I know? I am some shade tree observer who has a deep distrust of most service departments.
First , I appreciate your input or I wouldn't go to the trouble of sharing my experience. Always looking to learn and get others input for better or worse. Second, I agree with you. I really have a hard time separating these anomalies happening all at once and the battery was my first 'guess" . That being said 2 different shops have checked the battery out and said it is fine. The dealer is saying they have a " hard" failure code on the wiring loom .Whatever that means. Regarding the transmission and rear end codes as well as the door not opening I again asked about the battery with the service writer and was told there was a problem with the soft ware communicating with the diagnostic codes and that was "probably" brought on by the wiring loom failure. Was told once the computer has issues the car will do all kinds of crazy things. With the car sitting for over a week in the service department i am thinking if the battery is aging out certainly next week when they go to start it and do the work the battery will need some help. At that time i would just let them put a new delco in it. If it starts with no issue then I will get my car out of service department "jail" I will probably review the tutorial on I believe it was 'redhot"s battery recommendation and replace the battery just to be safe..
And i'm right there with you regarding service departments as well. that is why i really struggled with doing the TSB in September for delayed engagement. It never really bothered me as it was a one time deal when i first started the car after sitting for over a day or two. One delayed shift and then everything seemed normal. Last thing i wanted was to have my car dismantled and "fixed" as i believe they are never as good as when they were first put together in Bowling Green. More times than not you get it back with a host of new problems after major work such as this.
Please feel free to share your .02 anytime with me as the wonderful thing about this blog is the caliber of knowledgeable people on it contributing there experience for others to pick and choose from.
 

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Here are my $0.02 (or maybe it is not even worth that).

I kept my car (built in Feb. 2016) on a battery tender. I was really careful with it, to try to make it last as long as possible.

Nevertheless, my battery died in about 3 and a half years.

I can't believe that all of your various troubles all just magically started at the same time and are unrelated.

I would almost be willing to bet that your wiring harness is fine, and that all you need is a battery to take care of everything.

But, what do I know? I am some shade tree observer who has a deep distrust of most service departments.
So just to follow up today i contact the the dealer and asked them if they are able to lower the rear hatch manually please replace the battery before replacing the wiring harness. Once that hatch is open and extending over the trunk portion you are unable to access the trunk as i found out .This may be a good time to test the possibility that all these anomalies are related to the battery condition rather than other computer failures and wire loom failures. If not early next week they can replace the wire loom and i will have a new Delco Gold 42 month battery going forward. Either way i don't want to have to deal with any gremlins going forward so replacing the 4.5 year old battery is good insurance to avoid future issues.
As I have mentioned that battery has been tested twice in the last 4 months and was said to be "fine" and charging correctly etc. It's been maintained since new on a smart charger when ever its parked (even over night). Good chance I am replacing a perfectly fine battery but it's going to fail eventually and with these cars when they do it can very fast with little warning . Would never want to be on the road somewhere and have the battery die in a less than ideal scenario.
 

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Update on this is still waiting for the part from GM. Supposedly its in LA now and just waiting for it to make it's way to the dealer. In spite of my request they have not replaced the battery as the service writer insists the wire and switch is the issue due to a short. They can not get into the trunk due to the top covering the trunk lid. You can ask and request all you want but ultimately they are going to do what they want to do. I was curious to get the battery replaced first just to test the possibility this was all a battery issue. Also told all the axle and transmission codes have cleared and does not appear to be an issue beyond the convertible top not operating currently. Like most I am sure i am just anxious to get my car out of service department jail and home where it's under my control. And of course back on the road at 100%.
 

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My cynical side tells me that they don't want to try a new battery before the replacement part arrives because, if the battery alone works, then they will have mud on their faces.

If you had control of the car, you could use the under-hood +/- terminals to connect a strong battery, and use that to get the top raised/lowered. The under-hood +/- terminals are not sufficient to carry the current to start the vehicle, but raising and lowering the top take much less current than the starter.

After the top was out of the way, you would have access to the trunk to change the battery.
 

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Just to close this. I got the car back today. Replaced the left side convertible top switch . Assume there are one on each side and it is part of a wire assembly for the hatch or the top it's self.. Service tech and writer said pretty unusual as neither of them had seen one fail prior to this. Also put a new Delco 42 month "Gold" battery in her. Part was about $140.00 and about $365.00 labor ( cheaper than I would have thought). New Delco Gold battery at $165.00 plus about $30. labor for install. Battery replaced with no pro rating if it fails in first 42 months and first 12 months labor is also covered.
Warranty covered the top repair and car rental for 5 days (total about $750.00) and i paid for the new battery. Restored my faith in a good extended warranty. Easily will pay for it's self with one moderate repair or two or three smaller ones. All the codes cleared themselves so that apparently was some sort of soft ware issue that resolved it's self.
Still unsure about the need for the new battery but it was 5 years old so figured I might as well do it before it causes a problem. Now i have to remember how to reset all my radio functions etc. Surprised they don't have a way to keep power to those items while swapping out the battery.
Didn't have time to check the function of the top before i left the dealer as i wanted to get out of there so later today I'll run it through a complete function test to be sure...
 

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Glad to read that you have your Z51 back 15snow-ray! Hopefully all is resolved and you can enjoy.
 

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Congrats - i think you have more than paid off that bad karma debt ;) No go enjoy some nice drives!
 
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