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Rear Aftermarket Wheel Problem

1380 Views 16 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  meyerweb
I own a 2017 Stingray. Not a Z51, but HAD the Z51 wheels. It does have Mag Ride. I recent put aftermarket wheels on it and increased the size of the tires front and back.

Stock Rear Wheels: 20x10 +79os
Stock Rear Tires: 285/30/20
Stock Front Wheels 19x8.5 +56os
Stock Front Tires: 245/35/19

New Setup: Forgestar CF5V
Rear Wheels: 20x11 +71
Rear Tires: 305/30/20
Front Wheels: 19x9.5 +50
Front Tires: 265/35/19

I have no problems in the front. However in the rear the tire rubs on the top of the wheel well over large bumps or dips in the road at high speed. I was originally thinking this setup just won't work for a stingray, but I have read in multiple places that it should work fine. I took a look at my stock setup for the rear, and there is actually a slight wear mark on those tires as well in the same position on the tires.

My thought is I am getting too much suspension travel in the rear. I am no expert on these things, so just looking for some guidance. Right now, it is at the local Chevy dealer to get the suspension looked at.
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Rather simple your rear wheel/tire combination is too wide, nothing to do with the suspension. You kept the same '30' height on a tire that is 20mm wider, eg. you not only have a wider tire but you also added 7mm to the radius of wheel/tire combination.
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Rather simple your rear wheel/tire combination is too wide, nothing to do with the suspension. You kept the same '30' height on a tire that is 20mm wider, eg. you not only have a wider tire but you also added 7mm to the radius of wheel/tire combination.
That was my first thought. However, why would my stock wheel/tire setup have the same rub line in the tires?
Does the stock setup travel inside the outer edge of the wheel well when the suspension is stressed? If that is the case I get why a wider setup would rub. Also, if that is the case why was my stock setup rubbing?
That was my first thought. However, why would my stock wheel/tire setup have the same rub line in the tires?
Does the stock setup travel inside the outer edge of the wheel well when the suspension is stressed? If that is the case I get why a wider setup would rub. Also, if that is the case why was my stock setup rubbing?
Pictures of the tire damage would help here.

But my guess is your OEM Z51 rear wheels had spacers on them because that is the only way for the tires to come out and rub on anything, unless that is some genius put lowering springs on that Mag Ride which how do I put it politely...
It may be that your mag ride shocks have the wrong program or lost it. It should take a good sized bump to push your tire that high. If the shock is way to soft in compression it would let the tire move too high. The dealer can reprogram the shock to make sure it is the right stiffness in the compression mode.
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Man, somethings weird here, especially in the context of the stock Z51 wheel/tire was rubbing? You went 1 inch wider but your offset went from 79 (stock) to 71 ? Can you tell us the exact brand/style of wheel you purchase? Let us know what's going on here, looking to pull the trigger on a set of aftermarket wheels myself. (y)
Man, somethings weird here, especially in the context of the stock Z51 wheel/tire was rubbing? You went 1 inch wider but your offset went from 79 (stock) to 71 ? Can you tell us the exact brand/style of wheel you purchase? Let us know what's going on here, looking to pull the trigger on a set of aftermarket wheels myself. (y)
Wheels are Forgestar cf5v. Something has got to be wrong. I feel like people are running similar spec setups with no problems on a stingray. When you shop for stingray wheels, any options that aren't stock or stock reproductions have very similar size and offset specs as the ones I purchased. I am going to have the suspension checked out as I am thinking there has to be something up with the suspension or maybe it is lowered on stock bolts.
It may be that your mag ride shocks have the wrong program or lost it. It should take a good sized bump to push your tire that high. If the shock is way to soft in compression it would let the tire move too high. The dealer can reprogram the shock to make sure it is the right stiffness in the compression mode.
The ECU that manages the suspension can’t loose its programming that would be a catastrophic failure that could lead to way worse outcomes than a little tire rubbing.
It could also be the new rims
offset and setback could be wrong.
Struts/shocks mag ride or not do not have any impact on ride height or distance of suspension travel. So Mag ride or standard will not impact if the tire makes impact to the wheel well.

There are couple of other things to consider. The Corvette has an pretty low weight carrying capacity something like 550 pounds passenger and cargo. If you are running close to capacity the spring deflection (compression) will increase.

You did not list the mileage of the vehicle but it is possible you have fatigued or broken rear spring. This is highly unlikely it is something that can be checked.
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I hope you found the solution to the issue by now. But here is just a bit more info.

The rear mag ride suspension does not have a rubber bump stop. This action is done by making the shock go full hard at the end of its compression.
Because you state the wheel rubbing occured on the stock set up and on both rear wheels it is unlikely that both rear shocks are bad.

You didn't state you carry a lot of extra weight in the rear so that is not likely the cause. The springs could be bad but that is also very unlikely as the rear of your car would squat and tire wear would be bad.

The shock control unit is a seperate module from the ECU. This contoller is located on the driver side behind the vent. This unit runs hot. I don't know why but it is hot to the touch. The unit takes in a number of sensors from the cars BUSS. The unit has a few look up tables in it. Mainly a calibration table for each shock. It also has a table for each drive mode. In simple form all it does is figure out what spot in the mode table it should run and then looks at the calibration table to see what ampreage it should send to the shock to control the fluid. This is done for each shock independently so not likely a corrupted file which can and does happen, but could have corrupted the ride height. The most likely thing is the ride height is sensed wrong as this is one of the calculations done in the unit. There is only one or two lines in the shop manual on this. The dealer can reset the ride height and this could be why the bump stop is not working.


Or the unit could have been misprogramed from day one.

Does this occure in all drive modes?

This is a picture of the control unit. I replaced mine with a DSC contoller so I reprogram mine for different tracks and conditions.

Hope this helps.


Hood Window Rectangle Wood Stairs
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Upon further investigation, the stock setup did not rub. The dude at the tire shop didn't know what he was talking about. However, I can confirm that 20x11 rear wheels with an offset of +71 will in fact rub the inner edge of the top of the wheel arch. I did correct it by (1) adding a 2.0 degrees of negative camber to the rear wheels, and (2) shaving about 1/8" off the top of the inter wheel arch. No rubbing. I don't know where the offset sweet spot is for 20x11 rear wheels with 305/30/20 tires, but it is somewhere between stock offset (+79) and +71.
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Upon further investigation, the stock setup did not rub. The dude at the tire shop didn't know what he was talking about. However, I can confirm that 20x11 rear wheels with an offset of +71 will in fact rub the inner edge of the top of the wheel arch. I did correct it by (1) adding a 2.0 degrees of negative camber to the rear wheels, and (2) shaving about 1/8" off the top of the inter wheel arch. No rubbing. I don't know where the offset sweet spot is for 20x11 rear wheels with 305/30/20 tires, but it is somewhere between stock offset (+79) and +71.
Thanks for posting an update to this problem. What it would seem and your findings confirm is that the main culprit here is the extra 1" wide rim and a marginal increase in offset.
All good to know as I'm looking to purchase an aftermarket set of rims!
Thanks for posting an update to this problem. What it would seem and your findings confirm is that the main culprit here is the extra 1" wide rim and a marginal increase in offset.
All good to know as I'm looking to purchase an aftermarket set of rims!
Yes that is the problem. I would think a 10.5 wheel with a similar offset would be better. Maybe an 11" wheel with a stock offset would work?...IDK. But an 11" wheel with a +71 offset and 305/30/20 tires will definitely rub unless you make some camber adjustments as well as shaving off the inside of the fender well.
My Stingray Z51 Set Up that works fine:
  • Wheels: Front 19 x 9.5 and Rear 20 x 11
  • Tires: Front 275/30/19 and Rear 305/30/20
  • Front Stock: 8.5 vs. My Front: 9.5
  • Rear Stock 10.00 vs. My Rear: 11.00

Below from another post:


Font Screenshot Number Parallel Document
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My Stingray Z51 Set Up that works fine:
  • Wheels: Front 19 x 9.5 and Rear 20 x 11
  • Tires: Front 275/30/19 and Rear 305/30/20
  • Front Stock: 8.5 vs. My Front: 9.5
  • Rear Stock 10.00 vs. My Rear: 11.00

Below from another post:


View attachment 284580
A ton of wheel manufacturers make 20x11 wheels for the rear of the Stingray. Even when you go put your year/make/model/wheel option into their website it will spit out this size. Buyer beware if you wrap a 20x11 in the recommended tire size that fits them (305/30/20). It WILL rub without alterations in the form of negative camber and/or trimming/shaving the top of the inside of the fender arch. Pretty sure 285/30/20 and 295/30/20 tires would rub as well on the same wheel. Wouldn't put 285's on them anyway as it stretches them too much, but included that size in my statement since it is the stock tire size.
Upon further investigation, the stock setup did not rub. The dude at the tire shop didn't know what he was talking about. However, I can confirm that 20x11 rear wheels with an offset of +71 will in fact rub the inner edge of the top of the wheel arch. I did correct it by (1) adding a 2.0 degrees of negative camber to the rear wheels, and (2) shaving about 1/8" off the top of the inter wheel arch. No rubbing. I don't know where the offset sweet spot is for 20x11 rear wheels with 305/30/20 tires, but it is somewhere between stock offset (+79) and +71.
The new wheel / tire setup are both wider, and have less offset, both of which push the outer edge of the tire further out toward the fender. On top of that, your tires are larger in diameter. All three are contributing.

2 degrees of negative camber is probably going to cause rapid tire wear on the street.
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