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I had a new battery installed today under warranty, just a few weeks weeks shy of the warranty expiring.
Thank you Chevrolet !
ssscooter66, saved by the warranty in the nick of time, now that's the best way to replace your battery!

SF
Rick
 

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Thanks Jack. Very good suggestion, especially if you are not sure of the condition of the new battery at time of purchase. The CTEKs maintainer many of us have will do a perfect job of ensuring the new battery is fully charged if you connect it to the battery before installing it. That is also why after installing a new battery, I always take my cars out for a nice freeway cruise and then bring them home and put the CTEK on. Remember also, that the CTEK has a different setting for AGMs than it does for regular flooded batteries. :eek:nthego:
JSVETTE; I have the Corvette maintainer that was built by CTEK that came with the car which I plug into the the passenger side of the rear cargo area. Will that one not work for a AGM? I'm not aware of any setting adjustment on it. Mike
 

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JSVETTE; I have the Corvette maintainer that was built by CTEK that came with the car which I plug into the the passenger side of the rear cargo area. Will that one not work for a AGM? I'm not aware of any setting adjustment on it. Mike
Mike, yes, the OEM version of CTEK will work fine with AGMs, using it identically to OEM flooded batteries. The actual CTEKs have a AGM specific setting indicated by a snowflake like icon. It has a slightly different charging algorithm. :eek:nthego:
 

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AGMs need to be charged at a higher voltage. The maintainer that can be ordered with the Corvette logo does not have the ability to choose the higher voltage setting.

You can plug the tender in which has the Corvette logo to charge an AGM battery, but it will not charge an AGM as well as a CTEK which has the extra setting which can be used for AGM or charging in cold weather.

I got my CTEK MUS 4.3 from Amazon for about $50. It has the setting for AGM or cold conditions.
 
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Mike, yes, the OEM version of CTEK will work fine with AGMs, using it identically to OEM flooded batteries. The actual CTEKs have a AGM specific setting indicated by a snowflake like icon. It has a slightly different charging algorithm. :eek:nthego:
Thank you for the response.
 

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I decided to replace the battery, coming up on 4 years and noticed a bit slower cranking.

I went with a Wal Mart battery ($117.00 / 730CCA) I have used them on several other vehicles and had good luck with them. I have one that's nearly 6 years old in my pickup truck and it still works great.

I used vise grips on the posts to lift out the old battery, held carpet back with a small clamp and bike strap and cleaned terminals and cables prior to installing new battery.
trunk done.jpg carpet held back.jpg batt in car V grips.jpg batt w vise grips.jpg new batt.jpg new batt.jpg term batt clean.jpg
 

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AGMs need to be charged at a higher voltage. The maintainer that can be ordered with the Corvette logo does not have the ability to choose the higher voltage setting.

You can plug the tender in which has the Corvette logo to charge an AGM battery, but it will not charge an AGM as well as a CTEK which has the extra setting which can be used for AGM or charging in cold weather.

I got my CTEK MUS 4.3 from Amazon for about $50. It has the setting for AGM or cold conditions.
So you use the snowflake setting for an AGM battery? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #49

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Thanks.
 

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I will be heading to get a new battery tomorrow. Started up to leave from a store and the DIC went crazy. All the warning lights on then the whole DIC flashed several times and went black. Turned the car off and all was fine on restart. When I first read this thread, I moved a battery to number three on my To-Do list since I purchased the Masterpiece in Nov ‘14. Number one on the list now.
 

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Matt,

Glad your car was fine on restart. Hope your battery install goes well tomrorow, and your DIC light show that you had, was a “one and done.”
 

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Please post your experience in terms of the battery you purchase and if it will be self installed. Thanks.
 
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Replacing the original battery in our C7s is a relatively easy job, especially once you first know what needs to be done. It will take you about 30 or so minutes. The only tools you will need are a flat head screw driver, 10 mm and 13 mm sockets, and some means of lifting out the original battery once disconnected. It does not have any built-in handles, so you will need either a cheap lifting strap that temporally attaches to the terminals, or the hardier sliding clamp or ‘ice block’ lifting claws. Our cars do not need to have auxiliary power supplied while you disconnect the battery. In most cases you will find that once you connect the new battery, your car alarm might go off, and you just need to press the unlock on the FOB. Then it might take a couple of cycles (on, off) for all electronics to return to their normal settings.

While I had not had any indication that the OEM battery was failing, I decided to take preventative action as she neared four years in age. There are several options available in addition to the OEM battery. I prefer to go with AGM batteries when I replace the originals in my cars. Sears carries a number of size 48 AGMs that will work, but the one I went with was from Batteries Plus, a X2 Power AGM part number SLI48AGMDP. It has a 5-year 100% replacement warranty, and 775 CCA. Here is what it looks like.

View attachment 192241

A further plus for me is that it is made in the USA just like our C7s

View attachment 192249

I suggest you protect your C7 from inadvertently scratching it by putting a protective cover over the trunk edge and right rear fender.

The first thing you will want to do, is to use your hand and gently pry the right-side plastic wheel well interior cover away just enough that you can comfortably slip the floor carpeting out from under it. As you can see in this photo, there are 3 attachment clips that release when you pull the cover.

View attachment 192257

It is important to do this so that you don’t end up ripping the carpeting where it goes under the cover. Just ease the carpeting back enough so that you have clear access to the foam hatch on top of the battery, as you can see in this image. Then just place something heavy on the folded back carpeting to keep it out of your way.

View attachment 192289

This is what you will see when you remove the foam cover.

View attachment 192265

In this image, you see the 5 sets of nuts that you will be loosening and or removing.

View attachment 192273

The first one is labeled 1 and is the negative ground cable. Note that it has a small additional wire attached to it (marked with a yellow arrow and caution triangle). You will loosen the 10-mm nut on the post clamp, which should allow you to slide the negative wire unit including the small wire, up off of the post. Once you do this carefully tuck the ground wire unit with the small wire out of the way.

As you can see here, I tucked it between the plastic wheel housing cover and the carpeting.

View attachment 192281

Next you want to undo the positive heavy-duty line that goes up to the engine. This is number 2 in the picture. Tuck that away (down between the battery and rear wall will work). Next you will be removing the nut that secures the fuse block. That is number 3. Loosen it the same way you did the negative post clamp. Now to get the fuse block to release, refer to the two green arrows in the picture at the top and bottom edge of the fuse block. Insert your flat head screw driver down into one of the slots while gently lifting the fuse block up. You should feel the catch release. Do the same on the other one and then lift the fuse block up and place it to the left of the area, out of the way. Finally, use your 13mm socket and unscrew the battery hold-down brace. These nuts are labelled 4 in the picture.

Now you should have everything disconnected from the original battery except the gas venting tube that is between the negative side and the outer wall. Just detach the tube from the elbow connector. Use your battery remover strap or clamp to lift it up and out. Be careful not to bump or hit your C7 body with it as you move it clear of your car.

Next, remove the vent hole cap from the OEM battery side (it is on the positive post side) and the vent hole elbow connector (on the negative post side) and place them in your replacement battery in the same positions.
Now you are ready to ease your new battery into the trunk floor. Remember the positive post goes to your left (with you standing facing the trunk) and the negative post on the right side.

You now reverse the steps you did above. You reattach the gas vent tube to the elbow. Put the battery hold down brace back and tighten down the nuts. (I realized I forgot to put the bracket back until I had secured the positive line to the engine, so I had to take that back off to get the bracket in properly :mask:). Next slip the fuse block assembly back over the positive terminal and push down at the top and bottom until you hear the clips ‘click.’ Then tighten the positive terminal connection (#3) down. Follow by connecting the positive line to the engine (#2), and finally the negative post assembly (with the small negative line) #1.

You should now have everything connected (your trunk light will come on when you do, and if your C7 is set to auto lock, most probably the alarm will also go off. If it does, just unlock with you FOB unlock button).
Once you are satisfied that all nuts are properly secured, replace the foam battery cover. Then gently slip the carpeting back under the plastic wheel well cover. Next, give the plastic cover a gentle thump with your hand at each of the 3 attachment clip areas. If you have them aligned, it should easily push home.

When you first start you C7 you may notice a few things are not quite right- the HUD (if you have one) may revert to its default, the outside temperature display may be --, as well as the tire pressure readings may also be --. I drove RedHot for a nice freeway drive and then shut it down. When I restarted her, the outside temperature read correctly as did my tire pressure readings. I also reset HUD to my preferred display.

I anticipate there are other ways to do this replacement. My intent in writing this up was to share with you the way I did. If it helps you when you decide to change yours, all the better.:tranquillity:
Thanks for the amazing detail,which really helps folks like me!
 

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Please post your experience in terms of the battery you purchase and if it will be self installed. Thanks.
Purchased the Duralast AGM from Autozone discussed earlier in this thread. Self installed in 30 minutes. Longest part was figuring out the sweet spot angle to get the new one in the hole. $168 after the core charge of $18 is refunded. That is with military discount of 10%. I will include pics of the vent elbow disconnected from vent tube for reference only. Recommend installing in new battery once it is in place. Otherwise there is a risk of breaking the elbow or it coming out and falling on the floor under the battery while trying to put the battery in the hole. There is not a lot of clearance. Thanks for this thread Jeff. Without the notes on the tabs for the board to release, I would have went mad or broke something.











 

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Glad the info and pics were helpful Matt, and that your install went so smoothly. Good point re the vent tube. Here is a pic of it attached with the battery in place:

192417d1506516369-redhot-gets-battery-her-upcoming-4th-birthday-daum-1-1-.jpg
 

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Great write up. I do have a couple of questions though. You show the wheel well cover AFTER it’s separated. How did you separate it? Can I use a screw driver to pry it apart? I tried to pull it away by hand and it didn’t move. Secondly, I preferred a sealed batter like the AC Delco. It looks like your using one with vent caps. Won’t it be inconvenient to check and add water periodically? Thanks again for the great tutorial.
 

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Great write up. I do have a couple of questions though. You show the wheel well cover AFTER it’s separated. How did you separate it? Can I use a screw driver to pry it apart? I tried to pull it away by hand and it didn’t move. Secondly, I preferred a sealed batter like the AC Delco. It looks like your using one with vent caps. Won’t it be inconvenient to check and add water periodically? Thanks again for the great tutorial.
Thank you. As noted in post #1 http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/how-diy-guides/62705-redhot-gets-battery-her-upcoming-4th-birthday-4.html#post735601, you should be able to slightly separate the right wheel well cover with your fingers and then release the clips as shown. If you find that a bit too hard, you can use a plastic trim tool to help move the cover away. The battery I went with, Batteries Plus, a X2 Power AGM part number SLI48AGMDP, is an AGM which is sealed for all intents and purposes. You never have to add water or check the fluid/gel level over its life.

Please let me know if you have any additional questions.
 
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Thank you for hem pictures and detailed explanation. I was able to easily change the battery. The problem I have now is the car is completely dead. Nothing works and no lights. I tried plugging my phone charger into the rear cigarette lighter and nothing. What else can it be? Bad fuse or ground? I didn't test the battery but they said it was fully charged but I'm not sure now. Thank you very much guys as I am starting g to freak out a little.
 
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