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New battery = 3.3 volts. Need to jump or charge it. Trying that now.
 

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Sounds like they did not charge the battery before you purchased it.
 
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New battery = 3.3 volts. Need to jump or charge it. Trying that now.
Sounds like they did not charge the battery before you purchased it.
Hmm, visited the Johnson Controls battery plant in town. The last step in manufacturing before labeling and shipping is charging the newly assembled batteries. They have three very large pools of water, each holding about 100 batteries. The water level is raised to almost the top of the batteries after charging cables are connected. That keeps them cool so charging time is reduced.

The batteries are then placed on a long belt and at the end various labels are placed on each like NAPA, AutoZone, Advanced Auto etc etc. They operate on a JIT basis and will deliver one model battery to specific stores if the is what is needed and ordered.

If the battery is only 3.3 volts expect it is very old or might have an internal short. Lead acid batteries reading that low probably will have sulfated and not return to new condition. Unlike cell phone etc batteries they are not “happy” being fully discharged!
 

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Most welcome. I think it would be difficult for to get sufficient grip between the battery and opening walls to lift it out with just your hands, for the majority of people.
Well you were right. I had a feeling the battery was starting to go when cold starts in my insulated garage were not immediate. Thought I could fix by trickle charging it, but never got my green light that it was fully charged or even close after 10 hours. Well, after some short trips on Friday a day off, I parked in the driveway to clean off any residual road salt that may have still been around and when I went to pull her in the garage, nothing. Did my first jump start after trickle charging it for 3 hours and it still wouldn't start. Off to the local battery warehouse on Saturday (she did start up with no problem Saturday morning after being on trickle charge most of Friday night). It's great that they do free install and the tech had small hands but he still had difficulty and I had to help. They don't give me any problems being there while they install since I get all of my batteries there and it let's me watch closely that they are careful and thorough. C'mon Chevy. You could not have made that opening another inch wider. It was crazy trying to twist and turn the battery to get it out of that tight fit. When I thought it was going to be easier than my C4, it certainly wasn't. Just glad they do a free install and I wasn't fighting it alone. Putting in the new battery was a little easier than taking out the old one and the replacement has a built in handle. She didn't start right up at first push of the start button, but on the second, fired right up and has been firing right up since. No problems with any of the electronics and she has a brand new heart for $105.
 

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I just replaced Vettenessa's battery after 4 years. Thanks for the excellent how-to Jeff!
 
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Most welcome Jeremy. Glad it was helpful! :eek:nthego:
 
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Your post was very helpful deciding on Battery type and DIY installation. I helped guide the installer at the Battery Store. Again thank you for taking the time to post.
 

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Your post was very helpful deciding on Battery type and DIY installation. I helped guide the installer at the Battery Store. Again thank you for taking the time to post.
Most welcome Gary. Really pleased it helped with your replacement battery. :eek:nthego:
 

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Thanks Jeff, very useful information here.
I found out that the X2 Power battery in my area sells for $280 plus tax, not cheap at all.
If you like to watch a video about how to uninstall your old battery and then install the new replacement battery I found this video here on YouTube that may help you:
Good luck all.
 
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Well was out of town last week/weekend, came home to a dead 2017 GS!! No clicks on FOB, no nothing..... put tender on it ovrenight, that didnt work. Then jumped it from Suburban, started up yesterday....let it run a bit, then tried on/off a few times in the afternoon, but this morning back to nothing. Doors won't unlock and FOB not clicking. Guess its time to replace the battery!!
 

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Well was out of town last week/weekend, came home to a dead 2017 GS!! No clicks on FOB, no nothing..... put tender on it ovrenight, that didnt work. Then jumped it from Suburban, started up yesterday....let it run a bit, then tried on/off a few times in the afternoon, but this morning back to nothing. Doors won't unlock and FOB not clicking. Guess its time to replace the battery!!
Well was out of town last week/weekend, came home to a dead 2017 GS!! No clicks on FOB, no nothing..... put tender on it ovrenight, that didnt work. Then jumped it from Suburban, started up yesterday....let it run a bit, then tried on/off a few times in the afternoon, but this morning back to nothing. Doors won't unlock and FOB not clicking. Guess its time to replace the battery!!
Be sure to check out all the posts. It's not in the Owner's Manual but suggest pulling off the lower right rear wheel cover to avoid tearing the carpet. Dealer techs are reported to do it so not hard! There is no binding on the edge under the plastic wheel well cover!
 

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Replacing the original battery in our C7s is a relatively easy job, especially once you first know what needs to be done. It will take you about 30 or so minutes. The only tools you will need are a flat head screw driver, 10 mm and 13 mm sockets, and some means of lifting out the original battery once disconnected. It does not have any built-in handles, so you will need either a cheap lifting strap that temporally attaches to the terminals, or the hardier sliding clamp or ‘ice block’ lifting claws. Our cars do not need to have auxiliary power supplied while you disconnect the battery. In most cases you will find that once you connect the new battery, your car alarm might go off, and you just need to press the unlock on the FOB. Then it might take a couple of cycles (on, off) for all electronics to return to their normal settings.

While I had not had any indication that the OEM battery was failing, I decided to take preventative action as she neared four years in age. There are several options available in addition to the OEM battery. I prefer to go with AGM batteries when I replace the originals in my cars. Sears carries a number of size 48 AGMs that will work, but the one I went with was from Batteries Plus, a X2 Power AGM part number SLI48AGMDP. It has a 5-year 100% replacement warranty, and 775 CCA. Here is what it looks like.

View attachment 192241

A further plus for me is that it is made in the USA just like our C7s

View attachment 192249

I suggest you protect your C7 from inadvertently scratching it by putting a protective cover over the trunk edge and right rear fender.

The first thing you will want to do, is to use your hand and gently pry the right-side plastic wheel well interior cover away just enough that you can comfortably slip the floor carpeting out from under it. As you can see in this photo, there are 3 attachment clips that release when you pull the cover.

View attachment 192257

It is important to do this so that you don’t end up ripping the carpeting where it goes under the cover. Just ease the carpeting back enough so that you have clear access to the foam hatch on top of the battery, as you can see in this image. Then just place something heavy on the folded back carpeting to keep it out of your way.

View attachment 192289

This is what you will see when you remove the foam cover.

View attachment 192265

In this image, you see the 5 sets of nuts that you will be loosening and or removing.

View attachment 192273

The first one is labeled 1 and is the negative ground cable. Note that it has a small additional wire attached to it (marked with a yellow arrow and caution triangle). You will loosen the 10-mm nut on the post clamp, which should allow you to slide the negative wire unit including the small wire, up off of the post. Once you do this carefully tuck the ground wire unit with the small wire out of the way.

As you can see here, I tucked it between the plastic wheel housing cover and the carpeting.

View attachment 192281

Next you want to undo the positive heavy-duty line that goes up to the engine. This is number 2 in the picture. Tuck that away (down between the battery and rear wall will work). Next you will be removing the nut that secures the fuse block. That is number 3. Loosen it the same way you did the negative post clamp. Now to get the fuse block to release, refer to the two green arrows in the picture at the top and bottom edge of the fuse block. Insert your flat head screw driver down into one of the slots while gently lifting the fuse block up. You should feel the catch release. Do the same on the other one and then lift the fuse block up and place it to the left of the area, out of the way. Finally, use your 13mm socket and unscrew the battery hold-down brace. These nuts are labelled 4 in the picture.

Now you should have everything disconnected from the original battery except the gas venting tube that is between the negative side and the outer wall. Just detach the tube from the elbow connector. Use your battery remover strap or clamp to lift it up and out. Be careful not to bump or hit your C7 body with it as you move it clear of your car.

Next, remove the vent hole cap from the OEM battery side (it is on the positive post side) and the vent hole elbow connector (on the negative post side) and place them in your replacement battery in the same positions.
Now you are ready to ease your new battery into the trunk floor. Remember the positive post goes to your left (with you standing facing the trunk) and the negative post on the right side.

You now reverse the steps you did above. You reattach the gas vent tube to the elbow. Put the battery hold down brace back and tighten down the nuts. (I realized I forgot to put the bracket back until I had secured the positive line to the engine, so I had to take that back off to get the bracket in properly ?). Next slip the fuse block assembly back over the positive terminal and push down at the top and bottom until you hear the clips ‘click.’ Then tighten the positive terminal connection (#3) down. Follow by connecting the positive line to the engine (#2), and finally the negative post assembly (with the small negative line) #1.

You should now have everything connected (your trunk light will come on when you do, and if your C7 is set to auto lock, most probably the alarm will also go off. If it does, just unlock with you FOB unlock button).
Once you are satisfied that all nuts are properly secured, replace the foam battery cover. Then gently slip the carpeting back under the plastic wheel well cover. Next, give the plastic cover a gentle thump with your hand at each of the 3 attachment clip areas. If you have them aligned, it should easily push home.

When you first start you C7 you may notice a few things are not quite right- the HUD (if you have one) may revert to its default, the outside temperature display may be --, as well as the tire pressure readings may also be --. I drove RedHot for a nice freeway drive and then shut it down. When I restarted her, the outside temperature read correctly as did my tire pressure readings. I also reset HUD to my preferred display. It is also possible that your cruise control unit has reverted to OFF. If this is the case, and you have forgotten how to turn it on (not set the speed), push in the top of the cruise control switch, not the set or resume part, but above that where you see the logo of the speedometer.

I anticipate there are other ways to do this replacement. My intent in writing this up was to share with you the way I did. If it helps you when you decide to change yours, all the better.:tranquillity:
There is one step missing here or maybe I just missed it. Clean the inside of the battery cables from the car AND the terminals on the new battery. The should be shiny when you connect them. The dull gray is actually corrosion that can cause all kinds of issue with reference voltages and impact any number of computerized systems. I cannot tell you how many times we faced this issue when customers installed batteries DIY.
 

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Thanks Stoan, that is definitely solid advice on the new install.
 

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So it's been a while since I've been on the forum and so has my 2014 been sitting a while. And after sitting for 6 months with the CTEK on it, my little baby didn't want to start this afternoon. Zero power of any kind. Thanks to this forum and for jsvette posting this informative How To, I was able to change out the battery in just a few easy steps.
 
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Gla
So it's been a while since I've been on the forum and so has my 2014 been sitting a while. And after sitting for 6 months with the CTEK on it, my little baby didn't want to start this afternoon. Zero power of any kind. Thanks to this forum and for jsvette posting this informative How To, I was able to change out the battery in just a few easy steps.
Glad it helped Tom! Was your CTEK showing that it was charging?
 

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I only had the green light at the bottom of the CTEK just below the car icon. It was fully plugged in to the proper spot in the trunk area. So that's my next question, how do I know if the CTEK is not working properly?
 
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