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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Two years ago I had a street alignment done. Yesterday I noticed this wear on the right rear tire. All other tires look normal. 15k miles on the tires. The rear camber was set to -1.0.

Is it likely this one wheel is out of alignment?



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Same thing happened to me at 20,000 miles. Entirely possible that hitting a bump caused a change in my settings. All my tire tread depths were good (down to about 4-5/32nds) and consistent across the tires. When taking it off the lift last spring (2020) I noticed the same wear with cords showing. I, too, in theory had a "street" alignment done by a dealer early on in the life of the car. But as you can see from the 6/19 check rear camber was -1.0 and -1.4 (the right rear was the tire showing cords). The alignment specs I got from Pfadt for best street wear recommended -0.5. When I got an alignment after new tires last year the alignment specialist said he couldn't get the camber down that far for some reason (he was very experienced so I did not argue with him). As you can see from the "After" specs he got it to only around -1.0. So I will continue to watch my new tires and hope for the best. I do not track my car. --Bob



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Same thing happened to me at 20,000 miles. Entirely possible that hitting a bump caused a change in my settings. All my tire tread depths were good (down to about 4-5/32nds) and consistent across the tires. When taking it off the lift last spring (2020) I noticed the same wear with cords showing. I, too, in theory had a "street" alignment done by a dealer early on in the life of the car. But as you can see from the 6/19 check rear camber was -1.0 and -1.4 (the right rear was the tire showing cords). The alignment specs I got from Pfadt for best street wear recommended -0.5. When I got an alignment after new tires last year the alignment specialist said he couldn't get the camber down that far for some reason (he was very experienced so I did not argue with him). As you can see from the "After" specs he got it to only around -1.0. So I will continue to watch my new tires and hope for the best. I do not track my car. --Bob



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Toe in set too far out. I have over 10,000 wheel alignments done on every type of car. When you have a negative camber setting you need to have more toe in to compensate for negative camber. My own 15 Z51 had to replace my factory tires at19k with same cord showing as yours. Replace with original factory tires and set my alignment with most positive camber I could obtain and max out toe in at edge of factory specs. Now I have 52k on my tires with another 10k to go.
 

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Toe in set too far out. I have over 10,000 wheel alignments done on every type of car. When you have a negative camber setting you need to have more toe in to compensate for negative camber. My own 15 Z51 had to replace my factory tires at19k with same cord showing as yours. Replace with original factory tires and set my alignment with most positive camber I could obtain and max out toe in at edge of factory specs. Now I have 52k on my tires with another 10k to go.
Thanks Whitespeed. Always nice to hear from someone with serious experience. I am only a limited novice on alignment things, but do you mean that the rear toe should be set differently than it shows? It looks like the toe is set in the middle of the allowable range. Do you think it should be different? Also what do you think of the Pfadt Race Engineering Performance Street alignment suggestions? Do they sound reasonable?Thanks--Bob
 

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Thanks Whitespeed. Always nice to hear from someone with serious experience. I am only a limited novice on alignment things, but do you mean that the rear toe should be set differently than it shows? It looks like the toe is set in the middle of the allowable range. Do you think it should be different? Also what do you think of the Pfadt Race Engineering Performance Street alignment suggestions? Do they sound reasonable?Thanks--Bob
Yes! Set toe in near a total toe near .20 toe in or even a up .25 toe in. Middle would be if camber were closer to 0* camber. Remember when cruising the road resistance will draw the toe in more to a toe out. That’s why you want a heavy toe in front and rear. This is if you want maximum wear performance. Track performance means you don’t care about wear performance, just best traction in a curve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes! Set toe in near a total toe near .20 toe in or even a up .25 toe in. Middle would be if camber were closer to 0* camber. Remember when cruising the road resistance will draw the toe in more to a toe out. That’s why you want a heavy toe in front and rear. This is if you want maximum wear performance. Track performance means you don’t care about wear performance, just best traction in a curve.
These are the settings I had. What do you suggest?



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