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Currently my C7 is at the dealership for a yet undiagnosed electrical problem that drains the battery. My salesman told me he never travels without a an "Antigravity Battery" portable charger. You charge it once and it is supposed to jump a car battery for several months. It also works on cell phones and other electronic gear. I bought mine on Amazon for about $100. It fits perfectly in the rear storage compartment. Unfortunately it did not arrive in time to try it on my latest dead battery.
Yep got one of those at my local Lowes store. Haven't had to use it on the Vette yet, but it does work as I used it at work for a couple of trucks needing a jump. The whole works fits cleanly in the rear storage area along with my wheel stud covers and cleaning supplies.
 

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My tumbler doesn't open the trunk. It is very hard to turn and when it does it moves a little bit and turns but doesn't open the trunk. Any idea why?
 

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My tumbler doesn't open the trunk. It is very hard to turn and when it does it moves a little bit and turns but doesn't open the trunk. Any idea why?
Darkowl, welcome to our forum. You probably should provide a bit more information as to your specific model, how old, etc. I presume that by 'tumbler' you mean the OEM key from the FOB. It may be that your lock release is clogged up, again if you have the OEM key. Try some WD40.
 
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2014 Arctic White C7 Z51
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My battery maintainer failed me a few weeks ago and battery was dead with hatch locked. I immediately grabbed my fob and removed the fob key to pop open the trunk. The first time it worked as intended and although I lightly left the hatch open the weight of the hatch engaged the lock and needed to use the key again.

I tried my fob key again and it didn’t work after several tries. I then grabbed my 2nd fob and tried the key and it worked. I left it alone and came back and tried it again and it didn’t work and started to rotate trying both keys and it was hit and miss.

I think that because those keys do not have a good grip and it is an awkward position inside a recessed crevice you must make sure that the key is pushed all the way in to turn it. I immediately thought that the location although hidden is not ideal to seating the key inside the lock while also turning the key simultaneously.

I then tried both keys again but it took a few tries and believe it’s because you have to get it pushed all the way in and keep it pushed all the way in while also turning the key.

The slight lost of pressure while turning could keep it from engaging and preventing from unlocking. I could be wrong but that is what I concluded from my recent experience.

My tumbler doesn't open the trunk. It is very hard to turn and when it does it moves a little bit and turns but doesn't open the trunk. Any idea why?
 

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I have links on my laptop and my phone that take me right to the owner's manual. Always at my finger tips.
 
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I have links on my laptop and my phone that take me right to the owner's manual. Always at my finger tips.
What a great idea. It's so obvious that I can only give myself a slap in the forehead for not thinking of it myself. Depending on where you store your owner's manual, it may inaccessible when there is no power. I can be all about relieving a little stress in those "panic" moments. Downloading to my laptop right now.
 

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My tumbler doesn't open the trunk. It is very hard to turn and when it does it moves a little bit and turns but doesn't open the trunk. Any idea why?
It is connected by a cable to a bunch of plastic parts which can deform under pressure. As Kyle said, make sure your key is fully engaged so it will turn in the cylinder. At that point, you just have to turn HARD sometimes to get it to work because you have to overcome the deflecting cable and deforming plastic parts.

I have pictures on here somewhere of what it looks like back in there with the rear fascia removed. If you like, you can search for that to get a feel for what turning the key actually does mechanically to the release mechanism.
 

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I remember that post by Rodney removing the rear fascia so this might be it.

Update for the mechanical cable removal on the 2016 electric pull-down hatch latch.

It is connected by a cable to a bunch of plastic parts which can deform under pressure. As Kyle said, make sure your key is fully engaged so it will turn in the cylinder. At that point, you just have to turn HARD sometimes to get it to work because you have to overcome the deflecting cable and deforming plastic parts.

I have pictures on here somewhere of what it looks like back in there with the rear fascia removed. If you like, you can search for that to get a feel for what turning the key actually does mechanically to the release mechanism.
 

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I remember a post of Rodney removing the rear fascia or something to this might be it.
Yelp, that rings a bell. Unfortunately, I don't have very many pictures in that thread. Oh well, hopefully it will help convey the idea that you are using flimsy, deformable plastic parts to pull on something at the other end which is the far stiffer, spring-loaded metal hatch latch. So, twisting the key has to first take up all the elastic slack from the deformable plastic parts before you can even start to move the metal latch at the far end.
 
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