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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Reload is a last step sealant that sprays on and immed wipes off. It gives brilliant glass shine as it's made with silica. But it's a bit finicky, and can streak. With some messages from Brandon at EAS, here, I got the method down pat:
1. Short nap MF TOWEL Folded in quarters
2. One or two spritzes per panel, no more( I was using way too much)
3. Wipe off, cover whole area
4. Immediately FLIP the towel and a quick wipe buff...good for months....maybe longer....

Done! If you have used a coating like OPTI coat or cquartz, this is your follow up......
 

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Do you have to use one of those other sealants (Opti/CQ) prior to using this, or can it be used on non-sealed paint?
 

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Nice job!!!
I too used way too much on vette.

Hydro works well too, but more problem to find a sunless time to use it.

As for pe009 ? I have used it on bare paint as well as over wax/sealants. Does well but will not have the same durability
 

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Well said Glen, here's the tips posted on my product description.

CarPro USA Directions:
Do not apply in direct sun
Apply to clean surface as follows.
Apply to 1 section at a time (1 Spray and immediately spread out)
Use a microfiber towel to spread out, buff in, then buff off immediately.
Use second towel or dry side of first towel and wipe and check before moving to next section


Here- http://www.carpro-us.com/exterior-s...anic-spray-sealant-500ml-now-25-more-product/

Also, works great on bare clean paint, coatings, glass, and metals. Pretty much any non porous surface!
 

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Nice job!!!
I too used way too much on vette.

Hydro works well too, but more problem to find a sunless time to use it.

As for pe009 ? I have used it on bare paint as well as over wax/sealants. Does well but will not have the same durability
Thanks for the reply gents. I was just wondering if I could get similar results without doing the full cq treatment first. I'm not too keen on trying a machine buffer on the new paint, not having a lot of practice with one, and 12+ hours prepping and applying by hand doesn't appeal to me either. Seems if I've got a decent wax on already, I could apply this stuff a few times a year and come out ahead on time.
 

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Thanks for the reply gents. I was just wondering if I could get similar results without doing the full cq treatment first. I'm not too keen on trying a machine buffer on the new paint, not having a lot of practice with one, and 12+ hours prepping and applying by hand doesn't appeal to me either. Seems if I've got a decent wax on already, I could apply this stuff a few times a year and come out ahead on time.
IMHO

Do it right the first time. Or you'll be chasing it forever. One thing I did see is that it degraded what I had underneath a lot quicker.

You have some great detailers in MD, go have it done properly and enjoy the car
 

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Discussion Starter #8
IMHO

Do it right the first time. Or you'll be chasing it forever. One thing I did see is that it degraded what I had underneath a lot quicker.

You have some great detailers in MD, go have it done properly and enjoy the car
correct...no shortcuts...when I send out my detailing step by step for newbies, the only ones that screw it up are those that add their own tweaks or preconceived notions...there is not substitute for proper prep of the paint...but that does not mean 12 hours of work, my step by step is 4 hours and the paint is mirror for months...on a new Vette
 

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correct...no shortcuts...when I send out my detailing step by step for newbies, the only ones that screw it up are those that add their own tweaks or preconceived notions...there is not substitute for proper prep of the paint...but that does not mean 12 hours of work, my step by step is 4 hours and the paint is mirror for months...on a new Vette
ok, thanks guys. will give it a try. I got the car a few weeks ago, have just over 400 miles on it, so I've only washed it once and put on a wax. I'm not afraid of doing it by hand, 4 hours is much more doable.
 
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ok, thanks guys. will give it a try. I got the car a few weeks ago, have just over 400 miles on it, so I've only washed it once and put on a wax. I'm not afraid of doing it by hand, 4 hours is much more doable.
pics required
 

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pics required
I've got some on here already as it looks now, will post some post-sealing when I get that done.
 

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Driving to office this morning with top down.. I wanted to put heater on but when I set temperature, pressed "auto" the A/C and therefore compressor came on. Does heat always run with compressor on?


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I wanted to put heater on but when I set temperature, pressed "auto" the A/C and therefore compressor came on. Does heat always run with compressor on?
Not if you use the proper amount of Reload.;)

Seriously though, just dial in the temperature you want and turn off AUTO and confirm on the display that AC is off. Problem solved.
 

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Thanks so much for all the tips, here and in other threads. Following all the great advice, my son & I pulled the wheels, cleaned everything up, applied cquartz and then finished up with reload on the calipers and the rims. They look amazing.

IMG_9268.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Congrats, and they will stay that way...I wish more would do this to the black wheels, it's just car paint, it needs a shield from brake dust. Post every now and then how it's holding up....
 

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Glen,

Would you recommend reload or crystal seal on the powder coated wheels I just had done? And what's the best followup for crystal seal, more crystal seal (layered) or something like reload?


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Forgot to mention we did cquartz on the exhaust as well (after polishing with Borla, another recommendation in the forum). Very interested to see how well this works over time.

IMG_9207-Edit.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Glen,

Would you recommend reload or crystal seal on the powder coated wheels I just had done? And what's the best followup for crystal seal, more crystal seal (layered) or something like reload?


.

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Reload for the wheels, but it streaks a bit if not careful-alcohol wash first-- two coats 4-6 hours apart

Crystal seal will work too, but needs to be put on more often....the best way is the cquartz/reload kit..

But powder coat is far most resilient then the car paint chev puts on, so any of the above will work. You own crystal seal? I'd use that....reload is undergoing a formula change this month, out soon....
 
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