While driving to vacation on the interstate over Labor Day weekend, I stopped at a rest stop. When slowing, I could not shift my 2015 M7 into 5th, 3rd or 2nd gear. When leaving the rest area, I still had no use of these gears. Next morning, leaving my hotel, everything was working again. I thought it might be an overheating issue, but it happened again a couple of days latter at startup. I made an appointment at my dealer, but by the time I got home, it was working fine again. The dealer could find no issues, and no codes were left in the computer (the check engine light was on when I was having problems, but went off when it self-corrected). The dealer says if it happens again when I am in town, stop by and they will try to diagnose. Has anyone else had this issue, or heard of a software patch?

 

You were locked out of very gear below 5th except for 4th and 1st. That makes me think the error had something to do with CAGS malfunctioning and coming on when it should not have.

 

Just confirmed at dealership that I need a new rear differential.... Grrr

 

Glad your problem has been quickly identified and you are getting a new diff. While in the short run frustrating to you, best of all for your long term motoring.

 

Very true. Thank you!

 

Will keep it in mind when working on my fix-er-up

 

Does anyone know about Ceramic 9-H Coating

 

Convertible console material warping

I have had my center console (adrenalin red) on my 2015 Convertible 2LT with standard leather replaced twice. It has a wavy warp where my elbow rested on the console. I am now keeping my elbow off the console (in my case) but have never had a car with console do this before. I think the material is just thin, but it is a convertible in Texas sun!

 

Convertible Trunk Partition coming loose

I have had the front plastic studs on the trunk partition come loose on my 2015 Stingray Convertible. You can only see these if you pause the C top motion at a point where you can look into the well where the top is stored. Twice, the Chevy dealer addressed this by installing new studs that would come loose again the first time you lowered the top.

I found my own solution which was to purchase 2 bumper/ fender retainer clips part 461230A GM (brand Needs Parts at AutoZone) and these worked line a charm. I pushed them through the partition holes and into the composite material below and then pushed the actual bolt which is an expansion bolt and it worked, and the partition is now held tightly in place. This seems like a small issue, but I was not sure how a loose trunk partition might have negative effects, so decided to fix it myself. Maybe this helps someone else with a similar issue.

 

Does your zo6 ever go into V4 mode? Mine does about once a week even if I am driving around at 30 mph with cruise control.

 

No, my Z06 never goes into V4 mode. I make sure of that. I ALWAYS use M-mode and paddle shifters.

 

But if you left it alone does it go to V4 mode often or never?

 

I have no idea. Mine hasn't been run in "D" EVER (not even for a minute).

Maybe someone else who runs their A8 Z06 in "D" can tell you their experiences.

 

So good news is they fixed my rear differential. One day job according to them ended up taking three days. I got my car back and my rear bumber looks like this on both sides. Now they are telling me that they need to send it to a body shop for two days! Thoughts? Car has less then 1,000 miles. Am I crazy to think a body shop needs two days to reattach a perfectly good bumper? I need thoughts asap!

 

It does not take anywhere near that length of time. Of course, you want them to go slowly instead of doing a rush job. However, even going slowly, it would only take a couple of hours. In reality, they will probably do it as quickly as they can, which would probably be on the order of half an hour.

 

So good news is they fixed my rear differential. One day job according to them ended up taking three days. I got my car back and my rear bumber looks like this on both sides. Now they are telling me that they need to send it to a body shop for two days! Thoughts? Car has less then 1,000 miles. Am I crazy to think a body shop needs two days to reattach a perfectly good bumper? I need thoughts asap!

 

N2272L, your picture doesn't show, you wouldn't think it takes that long to reassemble it. Hopefully the rear is back to 120%.

SF
Rick

 

Do you know why the front edges by the wheel are not aligned

 

Yes, they did not put the rear fascia back on correctly. They probably missed aligning the bottom tab, and it is on the outside of the slot instead of sliding into the slot.

 

This picture sort of shows what I am talking about. If I remember well, there is another alignment slot below the bottom-most orange clip. I think the tab on the rear fascia which is supposed to go into that slot missed wide. They probably didn't pay any attention. They should have noticed and immediately pulled the fascia back off and reinstalled it, carefully making sure the tab went into the slot.

 

The hourly rate book may say a 6 hour job, which of course can be done in one day..........but you have to go by their schedule, their manpower, availability of parts and supplies, what other jobs are in front of yours, etc. You have to have patience when dealing with dealers, build a good rapport with service personnel, relax if you can. No instant gratification that I can see of with dealerships. They'll get it straightened out for you eventually.

 

I agree I am just concerned that they are sending it to a separate body shop for two days to get fixed

 

It is going to be taken to a third party body shop. I don't even know it's name let alone have a relationship. I took it to another dealership and just found out that they damaged the bumper.

 

Quite a few dealers do not have their own body shop, they farm it out to various independent shops near-by. Fortunately for me, I'm retired, and if my car is taken to another shop, I'll take it there and hang there as well (ie; windshield replacement). Body shop is different, there will be a need to leave it there in most cases. Some due diligence may be required. Establish a rapport with the principles involved with the repair, express your concerns of leaving it there and request all the precautions to keep the car in a safe area. Get your mileage and jot it down on your whatever receipt you get and annotate it on their paperwork as well, or at least leave a note visible in the car with the mileage listed.

I completely understand one's paranoia leaving a tempting car to drive with strangers. I have that phobia myself, if in fact it is. A good shop will respect your property, some others, not so much. Hope you get total satisfaction with your fix without any hiccups.

And above all, attitude is key, firm but respectful, tone of voice and inflection as well.

 

Well it turns out the bumper separated from the retainer. So they are basically going to "glue" it back on. I am not very thrilled about it.

 

The retainer clip is also glued to the panel at the factory.

 

I'm new to this forum, also first time owner of a 2017 Stingray. I think this is excellent information and informative. I find this section hard to use, maybe it's me, It would seem if the issues were listed by thread then you could go directly to that issue and see folks response about that issue. Right now you have to read every single one and hope to find one that is your issue that you are looking for. Am I doing something wrong? Thanks, not trying to offend anyone.

 

Try using our excellent search function at the upper right of every page to narrow it down.

 

A shout out to Jsvette.

Awhile back he posted detailed instructions for replacing the battery in the C7. I saved that and it came in handy today. Mine started showing signs of pending battery failure and since it’s over 3 years on the OEM, I bought a new one. Jsvette’s instructions were spot on and saved me time, sweat and expletives.

That’s what I like about this forum!

 

Most welcome indeed, thank you. I agree totally- this forum and the willingness of members to share trials, tribulations and viable solutions makes it both invaluable and a fun community to be part of. nthego:

 

I own a 2014 Z51 C7 which I’ve owned since new. I live in the northeast so my car is on a trickle charger during winter months. This year I experienced a new problem. When I attempted to enter the car, the door latches click but the doors won’t open. The truck release works fine but not the doors. Once opening the doors manually, the interior lights, door chimes and windows function properly but I get nothing when I hit the starter button. For some reason the parking lights stay on and won’t shut off until I disconnect the battery. My local service department suggested the battery isn’t totally charged but when I hooked up a “juice box”, the problem still exists. Has anyone experienced this problem and have a solution? Thanks!

 

69indyZ51 - Do you have the original battery?

Interesting things happen in our heavily computerized C7s when voltage is not within a prescribed range.

It's also worth noting that many 2014 owners have replaced their batteries already.

Having said all that, I would suspect that it's time to replace the 12V battery.

Since you've already disconnected the battery once, and tried to charge it ("juice box?"), is the car still not starting? If so, I'd replace the battery.

 

69indyZ51, I would agree you should consider replacing your battery. If you have not seen the following, it might help http://www.stingrayforums.com/forum/how-diy-guides/62705-redhot-gets-battery-her-upcoming-4th-birthday-4.html#post735601. Best of luck.

 

I took delivery on my Z06 a couple of weeks ago from a large dealer on the east coast. Hood was mis-aligned so took it my local dealer. They pulled the front clip to align the hood and when it came back, there were two hairline cracks in the clear coat at the upper edges of the front assembly where it snaps into place.

I’m trying to figure out (1) how easily this can happen and (2) if it can be repaired or I need to press them to replace.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Congrats on your new Z06 TucsonJim! That is doubly disappointing- first the hood misalignment (which I gather your local dealer was able to realign) and the hair line cracks. Personally, I would opt for a new panel rather than a repair on my brand new Vert.

 

@69IndyZ51, Sounds like you probably need a new battery. I’ve gone through 2 already, but after the last battery the dealer installed, mine did something similar to what you are describing the next day. They had me replace the fob battery then reset it. Something with passive alarm mode. You have to take the actual key out of the fob and do a few turns in the trunk... can’t remember the exact process, so check the manual. If that doesn’t work, it’s your battery for sure. Just curious, What’s the “juice box” you’re referring to?

 

Thanks for your input - I changed the battery and all is good.

 

Tusconjim, I think you should take your horrible repair to the General Mgr and demand new parts. Rookies must have worked on your car. And then find a diff dealer for all of any future issues.